I thought I’d document this as I have a funny feeling this little project my spiral into something a little more interesting than a tidy up.

 

The initial plan is to remove what can relatively easily be removed to clean it, powder coat it or zinc plat it. There absolutely nothing that NEEDS to be replaced as the car is/was working fine before I started this job. However in the interest of doing things as well as I can I’ll be replacing some minor bits and bobs.

 

Anyway here’s the car on the stands with the bumper removed awaiting its first job...

 

 

Edited September 21, 20196 yr by Chris300

That’s it, I’ve had enough. I’ve come to the conclusion, whist trying to clean up the front end, that I’m not going to achieve the standard of finish I’m looking for with the engine left in place.

 

So I’ve arranged storage of the engine while I’m working on the engine bay. Now all I need to do is pull it out the car. :scared::lol:

 

I know there are a few experts on engine removal and refitting so I think I’ll start a new post on the subject to ask all my silly questions.

 

When are you planning to drive this car on the roads again Chris?

If you want my opinion, don't do it, as you said at the start of this thread the car was working fine, put it back together and enjoy it, keep the bonnet closed if you have to and join me in the OEM- club

 

I hear what you’re saying and if it was just “another” car then I would agree with you. However this is a 300zx, my favourite car for under £40k, and I love working on it as much as driving it and I think it’s only right that I get to know these cars better (reading about things doesn’t work for me, I need to get involved). I will need a lot of help and there will be days where I’m pulling my hair out wishing I never started this but the car I have in my head will be worth the pain (I hope).

PMSL @ OEM-

 

When are you planning to drive this car on the roads again Chris?

 

I’d be very surprised if it’s back together by next year, I’m hoping 18 months so ready for spring 2021. If I do pull the engine then I’m going to be reliant on you and others to let me ride shotgun to any meeting you attend.

Edited October 7, 20196 yr by Chris300

Do you really want it out Chris? Do you have a hoist and a stand?

Do you really want it out Chris? Do you have a hoist and a stand?

 

I don’t have either of these Steven but they don’t look expensive and should last a life time of 300zx maintenance.

 

As for wanting it out, I can’t do what I want to do with the car with it in. My car is, in my opinion, a strong car however I don’t think it will last another 25 years if I don’t get stuck into it now. What with items going NLA thick and fast I want to preserve as much as the car before it starts to go rusty.

Edited October 7, 20196 yr by Chris300

I slept on this last night and, after a good chat with a friend of mine, I’ve decided not to pull the engine out for now. My friend reminded me that I can be a little impatient and over stretch myself at times. He suggested I do what I can with the engine in, then once that job is done move onto removing the intake manifold. If I still haven’t achieved what I want then I can look at pulling the engine and will have built a better understanding of what’s under the hood with my previous projects.

So here’s a few pictures of the progress in one small area.

 

This is what it was like when I collected the car in autumn 2017

 

 

 

I then asked Jim to get the rust fixed

 

 

The after a bit more stripping back I’ve got this far.

 

 

Still a long way to go, but this was by far the dirtiest area in the engine bay.

Out of interest does anyone know what is used as the “seam sealer”? As you can see in the last picture mine isn’t very nice and would like to get the redone before I touch up the paint around that area.

 

Cheers,

Chris.

Out of interest does anyone know what is used as the “seam sealer”? As you can see in the last picture mine isn’t very nice and would like to get the redone before I touch up the paint around that area.

 

Cheers,

Chris.

 

In addition to this does anyone know what the grease used in some of the connectors is called?

In addition to this does anyone know what the grease used in some of the connectors is called?

 

Dielectric grease.

 

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2609521/LEAVE-IT-ALONE-Its-dielectric-packing-for-insulation.html

Thanks Andrew. As it’s an insulator how do you apply it, it kind of seems counter productive to trowel it into the connectors? (Sorry mate, I’m assuming you’ve used this on your connections?)

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2?th=1&psc=1

Edited October 10, 20196 yr by Chris300

I’m going to replace the headlight seal foam on both lights. Has anyone got a template of this product as if it’s not NLA already then I imagine it will be soon?

I’m going to replace the headlight seal foam on both lights. Has anyone got a template of this product as if it’s not NLA already then I imagine it will be soon?

 

I used these:

 

https://conceptzperformance.com/czp-oem-replacement-headlight-foam-seal-nissan-300zx-z32-czp-62568-40p00_p_29356.php

 

But the OEM part 62568-40P00 may be available:

 

https://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/nissan/nissan-6256840p00-seal-head-lamp/

Nothing too exciting going on at the moment. I’ve priced up a load of plating and powder coating and will send that off next week. What I’ve mainly been working on is continuing to clean the HICAS unit. It’s taking a long time but I’m starting to see the results.

 

Much better! What did you use to clean it up?

Thanks Andrew. The compound I’m using is Autosol.

The polished area was rubbed down with various grade wet and dry paper then hand polished. I’ve removed the sticker but will get these reproduced when I’m finally happy with the finish.

The man housing was wire brushed with the Dremel and Autosol, then buffed with a microfibre cloth. I’m going to invest in a different type of buffing wheel for the Dremel as I think that can be better.

The metal pipe work was done the same way as the main housing but I’m far from happy with that finish and will try something else.

I found the ones on the left worked quite well for the tight spots (but tended to wear out quite quickly).

But they all did the job.

 

They’re the ones however I used the stronger stainless steel version.

In the absence of any other measures, a little 3 in 1 oil smeared over the freshly cleaned metal will help

to prevent oxidation.

What would be a more permanent protector?

Without removing the HICAS solenoid and coating it permanently (powder, paint etc) I'm not sure. I've found 3 in 1

works quite well and dosen't attract dirt. You just have to repeat every so often.

Edited October 20, 20196 yr by AndrewG
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