Hi Gents

 

I know this has been covered before, but rather than wade through all the previous post thought I would ask the wealth of knowledge here.

 

I am looking at changing my N/A auto to a manual and I have been able to source a TT manual box with all the bits required

box

pedal

slave and master cylinder's

pressure plate and clutch

fork etc

and all the other various bits I will need, TBH not sure how much more I will need.

 

first question is

What else should I be getting for this conversion? so I can confirm before I pick up the kit.

what parts should I buy new or replace?

will the TT box fit with out alterations on to the N/A engine?

I know that the N/A manual box has to be modified to fit the TT engine, something about the starter and grinding the box bell housing, but not sure if anything has to be done to a TT manual to marry upto a N/A engine?

 

Any other pointers to carry out this task gratefully received

 

thank you all in advance

 

S

.008" step - step is UP in the centre (scroll down to point 20):

 

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/clutchtech.html

Thanks Andrew

I am fitting a TT clutch and gear box into my na, so reading that having a flat flywheel on an na is ok but the TT requires that step. I believe it is all to do with the extra pressure from the pressure plate for the additional torque produced by the TT beast's.

Would you happen to know what the diameter of the raised portion is?

Or do i need to measure the new clutch plate and have it re cut to reflect that diameter?

 

thanks

Would you happen to know what the diameter of the raised portion is?

Or do i need to measure the new clutch plate and have it re cut to reflect that diameter?

 

It needs to be enough to fully engage the clutch plate and to allow the pressure

plate mounting flange to properly sit on the lower part of the flywheel.

Without the step, the clutch will not clamp so tight, seen this mistake made plenty of times over the years, it is often easier to get hold of another good used one or buy and after market lightened one.

 

 

Jeff

I measured one today with a straight edge and feelers and it came back at .011".I have no idea if its been machined before though.

Thanks for that Jimmer i will measure the clutch plate and the inside edge diameter of the pressure plate so i will know how much space i have between them and ask the company to re skim to suit.

Will post more pics and info as the conversion goes on, I am sure more questions will arise so all you gurus please stand by :)

 

Still need to get over and pick up that speed sensor Pete I will contact you this week to arrange.

Just dropped off the flywheel to have the 0.011” 0.279mm step cut in left the old clutch and pressure plate with them to make sure they get it right hopefully.

I will post pic when done and hopefully get a thumbs up from the experts on here. Thanks again

 

Have also just picked up the pilot bush and rear gearbox seal

Yeah no problem scoobydoo. Just give me a text.

Stu have you got a rear main oil seal also ?

Do u mean the crank seal?

I have the rear gearbox seal

I have now got my flywheel back now with 11/1000” or 0.278mm step let’s hipe it’s right this time

 

So started the strip down. Exhausts off, prop shaft off, starter removed, auto box linkage disconnected, oil drained and oil cooler pipes removed. Also removed the auto selector

Now at the stage to remove bolts and connectors then hopefully the box will come away. Fingers crossed

 

So started the strip down. Exhausts off, prop shaft off, starter removed, auto box linkage disconnected, oil drained and oil cooler pipes removed. Also removed the auto selector

Now at the stage to remove bolts and connectors then hopefully the box will come away. Fingers crossed

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]117332[/ATTACH]

 

Don`t forget to undo the torque converter bolts.

 

 

Jeff

Yep all done there was a plate on the passenger side of the block that when removed gave me access to the four bolts holding on the torque limiter.

Then the eight bolts and the flywheel was off.

Going to replace the main seal behind the flywheel. Any suggestions how that comes out? Looks like a plate above it but not sure if that comes off before hooking out the seal?

 

So the question for the day is after removing the main seal retainer do I either buy the paper gasket (Nissan backorder 6-8 weeks) from Z centre or just use gasket sealer?

Also if i use the sealer do i need to go all the way around the retainer with it or just where the paper gasket sits?

 

I know some of you have done this so your advise and experience would be welcome thank you.

So the question for the day is after removing the main seal retainer do I either buy the paper gasket (Nissan backorder 6-8 weeks) from Z centre or just use gasket sealer?

Also if i use the sealer do i need to go all the way around the retainer with it or just where the paper gasket sits?

 

I know some of you have done this so your advise and experience would be welcome thank you.

 

Ok quick question, have you taken the main oil seal retainer off yet ? if not leave it in place the main seal can be removed by levering it out carefully with a small screwdriver or pick, spear it first and then pull and lever, been careful to not scratch the housing.

 

However if you have removed it and the paper gasket it toast, then silicon sealant will be fine, the two mating surfaces are are machine finished and as such are very flat, a bead of sealant will be fine, just use high temp rtv sealant clear or black will be fine the orange coloured one I do not like but thats me .

 

 

Jeff

Cheers Jeff

haven't removed it yet, but looking at the residue around it thought that it might be leaking a bit from round the retainer

Well remove the main seal retainer cleaned it all up used high temp rtv sealant refitted and replaced the main seal.

All went well.

 

 

 

Also removed the auto pilot bush with a nice slide hammer and hook, came out pretty easy with several hard bangs.

 

Then fitted the new manual pilot bush with a few careful taps with hammer and wood.

Hi guys went to fit the flywheel and unfortunately I was only sent seven out of the eight bolts required.

Nissan are a five day delivery.

Does anyone on here have one knocking around that I could relieve them of?

Or know if an alternative ie skyline etc.

Thanks.

Hi gents

An update, the flywheel fitted and torqued with the new £13 bolt from Nissan, clutch and pressure plate on and torqued.

With the help of piece of wood a jack and a bit of a wiggle gearbox was mounted all bolts accessed around the bell housing and secured “torqued”.

 

 

 

Last night replaced the gearbox rear seal and wires in the reverse switch along with removing the redundant two left in the engine bay.

Also fitted the speed sensor and just wanted to confirm with the experts here if I have fitted the correct one.

I have an n/a and fitting a manual box from a TT the car obviously has the n/a rear diff, so am I correct that the gear box should have an n/a speed sensor due to the rear diff ?

Progress is steady hopefully finish wiring tonight maybe a start, might be a bit noisy with no exhaust haha.

Hi gents

An update, the flywheel fitted and torqued with the new £13 bolt from Nissan, clutch and pressure plate on and torqued.

With the help of piece of wood a jack and a bit of a wiggle gearbox was mounted all bolts accessed around the bell housing and secured “torqued”.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]117600[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]117601[/ATTACH]

 

Last night replaced the gearbox rear seal and wires in the reverse switch along with removing the redundant two left in the engine bay.

Also fitted the speed sensor and just wanted to confirm with the experts here if I have fitted the correct one.

I have an n/a and fitting a manual box from a TT the car obviously has the n/a rear diff, so am I correct that the gear box should have an n/a speed sensor due to the rear diff ?

Progress is steady hopefully finish wiring tonight maybe a start, might be a bit noisy with no exhaust haha.

Yea I think NA speed sensor is required. I only realised two weeks ago after I fitted an NA box to my TT and wondered why my speedo was wrong for 2 years! I thought my speed correction chip had broken.

 

But swapping the sensor out for a TT one made it a lot better

 

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Next episode fitted the prop shaft jumped the auto start relay and went for a quick start.... yep it was a bit loud without exhaust but it did start quick to turn off as there is no clutch fluid or gear box oil just wanted to check the start.

Next question is I removed the AIV system when I changed the exhaust and removed most of the bits but left the relay and looped the vac lines. The question is can I remove the relay remove the connector and loop the vac line from the balance bar to the pipe under the wiring on the drivers side plenum?

Thanks again

Exhaust is back on all started and a quick drive sounded as if it was going to stall and a bit like a track car. Removed the loop back vac line from the balance bar and ran fine so I am guessing that this vac line that I removed from the AIV system relay that also goes back to a point on the block needs to be either re connected too as it was or blanked off. Thoughts?