Hi all,

 

I have a rattle, noticeable when moving/squeezing either coolant pipes (see vid).

 

 

So recently:

*Car on ramps at the front so radiator cap is the highest point

*Leaking radiator removed

*Used radiator fitted, new coolant pipes also fitted

*Filled with bluecol 2y stuff, 50//50 mix

*Left to sit for a day, topped up, ran till at operating temperature with heaters on full blast and nice and hot

*Re-topped up

*Few days later out to get it test-ran, came back and still had air bubbling in the system as I could heat it gurgling (or water boiling.. :ohmy: ) in the engine itself (not the rad)

*Instantly get it up on ramps again, no overheating at the temp gauge, fan working fine

 

Come today, I've gone to check it over and noticed this rattle coming from the thermostat (I think).

 

This a fail-safe thermostat, that has done less than 100 miles since I fitted it 3 years ago.

 

Have I fried my thermostat from poor bleeding, or do I have a loose washer kicking about my cooling circuit..? OR is it simply the thermostat jiggle pin that I haven't noticed before?

 

The noise can be heard without much pressure, on either coolant pipe.

 

Cheers!

 

1990 UK auto TT

I have never heard of a thermostat rattling mate - although that does not mean it can't happen.....:wink:

 

However it is not unknown for genuine, brand new, Nissan thermostats to be faulty straight out of the box. I seem to remember JeffTT commenting on a bad batch of them some years ago!

Rattling thermostat? No I don't think so! What's to rattle?

I know the jiggle pin moves about, hoping it's that. The car heats up fine, both the inlet and outlet hoses are hot, temperature gauge good. Hot air in blowers.

 

But that is slightly worrying!

 

Trying to remember the replacement procedure, just for good measure. Coolant drain, radiator/fan out, bottom pipe off enough? Last time I did it I had everything off so it was very easy.

Edited October 16, 20187 yr by cozza

Did you put the Temp to high and Aircon to recirc when you bled the syatem ?

Edited October 16, 20187 yr by TonyB

Just for an update. Re-bled it all again, definitely no air traps now. When under pressure when it's all hot, there is no vibration/rattling. Just a tiny bit when low pressure.

 

No problems on motorway or town driving though so who knows!

 

The new radiator also actually had a bleed valve on the top, which had a small leak, so that wouldn't have helped. Used RTV to seal the thread up, and all is well now.

 

Cheers for the help

Valve on top of the radiator!? Huh? You shouldn't be sealing that up with RTV, that's the bleed screw!!

Valve on top of the radiator!? Huh? You shouldn't be sealing that up with RTV, that's the bleed screw!!

 

I agree!!!

 

If it's a new radiator, then it could be faulty. Just tighten the screw and the bleed valve will close, no need to seal it up:wink:

Unfortunately the screw drive has been rounded. I got it out by pressing hard (molding a new drive..) and turning with a large flat screw driver. There's a small seal there too from what I saw, which was gubbed. So to get around both issues, I just sealed it with the screw back in.

 

Am I right in saying it was just the Japanese spec that had these bleed screws? My previous radiator didn't. Or perhaps later models

Unfortunately the screw drive has been rounded. I got it out by pressing hard (molding a new drive..) and turning with a large flat screw driver. There's a small seal there too from what I saw, which was gubbed. So to get around both issues, I just sealed it with the screw back in.

 

Am I right in saying it was just the Japanese spec that had these bleed screws? My previous radiator didn't. Or perhaps later models

 

 

I believe all twin turbos have it; not sure about the NA though.

ALL Z32s irrespective of market, engine or transmission have the same bleed screw in the same location for OEM or pattern radiators. If you fitted a new radiator then it would have come with a new one. You can buy them separately also.

 

You have probably caused yourself further headache by using a silicone sealer to secure it as getting it out isn't going to be easy.

 

Do ask on here before you try doing things like that as it looks like you're going about things the wrong way.

 

What radiator have you fitted?

Fair point guys, I'll get it replaced now before I need it later in life. Cheers for the advice. It isn't my daily so I can take the screw out now till I get a new one.

 

I fitted a used corrosion free radiator from banzai breakers for a manual TT.

 

I don't remember a bleed screw on my last one.. as I bled it all years back when doing the pump/belt etc.. but I'm probably wrong by what you are saying.

 

Every day is a school day with these beasts!

They ALL have bleed screws. The Z32 requires the system to be bled otherwise it won't work correctly and you'll get air pockets.

 

I personally wouldn't waste my time with a used radiator when high quality pattern replacements are so cheap. I'm not an advocate of pattern parts, however these radiators are manufactured by Koyo who make all the uprated ones and are of exceptional quality and are virtually indistinguishable from the original.

 

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