Is it best to get the full Cambelt kit from Z centre & replace the lot?

Also NA & TT Cambelt are they the same?

Looking at 91 tt import.

Thanks

Get everything. Water pump, pulleys, cam seals, etc. Replacing all of those parts is the fastest part of the process.

How many miles has the car done? What is the service history?

Hi Andrew,

Engine wise,

I've had the Z now four years. Never an engine problem other than one injector fail first three months. 74K (miles) on clock on import now 83K. (miles)

Air & oil & oil filter changed 74K + New plugs.

Oil & filter changed every 9months. Air filter still clean. Always starts first time.

All history before is in Japanese.

So I could (should) get the lot & use what needs to be replaced? Minimum is Cambelt/Water pump/Thermostat all OEM.

Minimum is cambelt, tensioner, water pump, thermostat, the two water outlet hoses and check for corrosion

on the metal tubes they connect too. If the cambelt pulleys are running smooth without play I would leave

them for the 120K service. Also change the fuel filter.

 

Cambelt is the same for NA and TT: 13028-45P86

 

A 60K service kit looks like this:

 

https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-czp-oem-60k-timing-belt-kit-nissan-300zx-z32-13001-0xx60_p_3850.php

 

A 120K service kit looks like this:

 

https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-czp-oem-120k-complete-timing-belt-kit-nissan-300zx-z32-13001-0xx12_p_3849.php

 

A comprehensive 60K maintenance "how to":

 

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/timingbelt/timingbelt.html

Thank you for the advice Andrew

Although not technically difficult there are some good reasons to get the job done at some like Jimmer as there are some traps that even mechanics fall into who have not done one before, if however you are doing it yourself then get on line there are plenty of video`s on how to, also after the work is complete remember you will need to check the ignition timing with the correct light and a ConZult session to get the most from the work you have done.

 

Jeff

Thanks Jeff will do.

Hi decided to eventually get round to my cam belt

Replaced idlers tensioner and belt

 

 

Still have couplers thermostat and by pass pipes to replace and water pump.

Was a bit of a pain when after cranking 2 3 revolutions found cam and exhaust cam was a tooth out then this was a struggle to get sorted as kept jumping on crank sprocket.

Done in the end.

Have a new set of spark plugs to put in new ones are ngk laser platinum old ones ngk iridium any noticeable difference or preference?

 

Just so you know, (maybe you’ve turned it over already) the white lines on the belt are guide markers.

Yeah I see that but it’s hard to line those up when u start from the crank sprocket.

Had numerous times till all marks lined up seem to change when I did a couple of revolutions.

All ok now:lol:

Are those spark plugs ok ?

Odd it shouldn’t be. You set the engine to 0TDC then the belt has arrows to donate faceing. The lines line up with each sprocket mark. Personally I thought that’s what makes it so straightforward. It’s done now though isn’t it. Have you done the tooth count as per the FSM and set the tension?

The PRFK6 11C are correct.

Haven’t got an FSM so not sure wat the tooth count or tension setup should be.

Literally had tensioner on loose put a bar behind it and levered it out till right and did up the bolts.

Whoops sounds like it should be a bit more scientific than that

**STOP ** you have not done the cambelt correctly.

 

Jeff

 

 

 

 

Read this >>

 

 

https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?135139-Align-timing-belt&highlight=cambelt

Edited August 20, 20187 yr by JeffTT

**STOP ** you have not done the cambelt correctly.

 

Jeff

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]114064[/ATTACH]

 

 

Read this >>

 

 

https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?135139-Align-timing-belt&highlight=cambelt

 

Yup - what Jeff said.....

 

…..Which is why I would only trust Jimmer to do mine nowadays...!!!

 

I have watched Jeff do this - on my own Zed - and whilst he made it look simple, that was down to years of experience. Anything is easy if you know how; but it's just as easy to mess up - which could prove disastrous!!

Well thanks guys.

Looks like it comes off and I do it again.

Let’s hope it all goes back as in the link. Can’t see any reason why it won’t it all looks ok now tbh and cranks over by hand with no noise or interference but I will re do using the marks on the belt just to be absolutely correct

Thanks again

Bet your glad that got flagged up!

The engine cranking is not indicative of it been correct, with the belt how you have it.. at best the engine timing ( cam`s to crank ) would be compromised and be under powered / troublesome, at worse that adjuster will be too tight and loose the belt!

 

Get it off and do it right, you should not need to fight it on if done correctly, you need to put the 10 mm adjuster bolt back in and close it up, leave the bolts holding the adjuster on to the block loose, when the belt is fitted on,use the adjuster pulley to hold the belt on as you just nip it up, now press the adjuster against the belt gently to take some slack out.

 

Now nip up the bolts to the block tightly, and finally the pulley bolt.

 

Check the belt timing marks against the pulley marks ( not the back plate) take special attention to the crank and belt markings, now take 5 mins and take photo`s.

 

Go back and check everything, and now you can remove the 10 mm bolt from the adjuster completely, now check all marks one more time and if all good rotate the engine at the crank.

 

Be aware the belt timing marks and the pulley marks will NOT line up again unless you turn the engine backwards which you don`t want to do.

 

I cannot emphasise the importance of getting this right, especially as if slightly wrong the engine will still run, but it will have issues you will be chasing around for ever.

 

Jeff

^^^

 

The voice of (many years) experience...:thumbup:

Hi guys

Thanks for yr advice thought it was as spot on as it cud be.

But have removed it and lined up the belt marks with sprocket marks and also have tensioner set up with a good gap.

Hope u agree that is all ok

 

 

 

Turned by hand numerous revolutions and no feeling of interference or fowling so unless it is wrong again then I think it’s done:yes:

That looks more like it. Have you done the tooth count?

Well the belt marks line up with sprocket marks and don’t move so that must be correct. Right?

You’d assume so but that’s what the tooth count is for to double check. See here;

https://300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=em&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=18&design=default&total=70

You have set the tensioner gap to 4mm?