Hi I need a new rad for my Manual NA, is a Manual TT rad a straight fit or does it require modification

 

THanks in advance for any help

took off the fan cowling right cam cover fan and now looking at the interesting configuration that holds the bypass pipes on, another night.

Can see the water on the under shield and can see where water has crystallised on pipes but no real obvious leaks

As suggested by Alic I purchased a length of 30mm silicone hose from AP Motor Store on Amazon, the actual Bypass Hoses are 75mm long I just cut off what I required with a very sharp bread Knife (did not make me very popular) funnily enough I have just finished putting it back together tonight.

 

I don't know if its necessary, but I removed the Thermostat housing as well as the bottom Socket cap on the bypass hose casing had been butchered and I required the access, but I think you would need it out of the way to get to the hose clamps, initially I was told that the leak I had was a pinhole in the rad so was very small, but after 95 miles one of the bypass hoses failed and started spraying coolant everywhere.

 

So if you can see the coolant dripping onto the cam cover I would change them just to be safe

 

I will have to check tomorrow to make sure I am leak free, also check for trapped air

 

Best of Luck if I can help (unlikely) do not hesitate to let me know

My best advice for cutting it, is using a hose clamp round the pipe and run a sharp Stanley knife around against the hose clamp. Straight cuts and no freying

Did you replace the stubby couplers and radiator in the end? if so where did you get them from? the coupler had a quote from Nissan dealer at over £40 each. By the way mines an n/a auto

 

Also if i was going down the road of replacing all hoses is it best to get OEM or buy off the shelf pipe and cut to size?

 

If OEM where would i get them from? Nissan dealer?

The stubby couplers that I thought were steel turned out to be aluminium, so as the new parts were so expensive I used some chemical metal to fill the depressions caused by the corrosion to get a good seal, the radiator was not damaged so I just flushed it through, I did however find a source for a NA Radiator Gary Silvester at swradiators@rwairconditioning.com he is very helpful the only Radiator available is the one for the Auto with the cooler for the gearbox connections at the bottom of the radiator at a cost of £94.00 +vat, which can be used on the Manual car as well.

 

If you are going to replace all the hoses then straight hoses will not be much use unless you manufacture the bends in steel or aluminium ready made hoses to OE pattern can be purchased in silicone from several places, but if your preference is OE then as far as I know your friendly Nissan Dealer would be the place to go, if you go for silicone hoses the you should use IAT type antifreeze as the later OAT type antifreeze rots the hoses, so if you go for the silicone bypass hoses make sure your antifreeze is IAT.

 

There appears to be some controversy about the pressure of the Radiator Cap, Std on Early NA cars was 0.9 Bar but the later NA I am lead to believe had 1.2 Bar and now only thing listed by Nissan is the 1.2 Bar.

 

I have replaced the very worn one on mine with a 1.1 Bar unit with a temp gauge in it so I could keep an eye on it while under the bonnet without constantly walking back to the cabin to look at the dash.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F142618064967

 

Is this the rad cap u bought?

I don’t mind going silicone,so good advice on the coolant type.

I will be getting the bypass hoses off later today so should be able to see where the leak is coming from hopefully.

I also want to do the water delete from the plenum as well at some point.

Where is a good place to get a set of the silicone water pipes from?

Yes that's the Rad cap, I have thought about the water delete on the plenum also but it sort of got put on the back burner when the car died on the M25, you might find that its not the actual Bypass hoses that have failed it may be the corrosion on the stubby ally connectors bolted to the block, once they are off the car its surprising how corroded they get (presumably from people using Tap water not coolant).

 

Once off you can clean them up and fill all the little indents in, when I re fitted mine I put the hose clamp as far back as I could while still leaving 5mm or so of the hose showing, its easier to refit the stumpy bits and then put the hose on, I tried a dry run of putting the hose on the stump first (much easier to fit hose clip) but when you go to fit the stump to the block its more difficult to get the bolts in and line them up, it also would have made keeping the stump straight with the sealant (Ebay Item No 262047122448) more difficult.

 

I have only looked for the silicone Radiator hoses but the items I found were (Item No 152157272364 @ 49.99) or if you are not in a hurry (Item No 253603896033 @ 24.80) they are listed as fitting the TT, but from what I can glean they will fit the NA also.

 

When you have the Rad, cowling and the Fan off have a look at your Belts, mine were all ok apart from the Power Steering one which was shot to hell, the correct belt appears to be a 3PK925 which I had a job finding without special order from Nissan, the TT uses a 4PK925 (which is readily available) because TT's have a 4 row pulley on the Power steering pump (For Front & Rear Steering) so as yours is NA make sure you get the 3 Rib if you need one.

Hi bit of an update got all the pipes off and have found lots of corrosion on the couplers and up and Lee bypass pipes. Also the upper the one that connects to the short rubber pipes has corrosion around the groove that seals to the block.

 

So I need a replacement one if any of you lovely people has a spare one knocking around I would like to give it a new home.

 

 

 

Think the timing belt idler looks suspect as well. What do you guys think?

So a little water leak looks like it is turning into a complete hose radiator and poss timing belt and water pump replacement

Didn’t post this pic

 

Got to say, glad your socket caps all came undone ok, I thought the corrosion on mine was bad but judging by your photo's they were not so bad at all, it looks like you still had the original Nissan hose clips as did I but I think they make the corrosion problem worse, I have renewed all mine with the jubilee type clips as they have a broader contact area on the couplings.

 

The familiar light brown fluid that is shown in your photo's appears to be standard issue, presumably the vast majority never change the coolant, looks like the original Radiator as well.

 

I have come to terms with the fact that every job on a Z32 produces several other jobs the moment you start to tackle the first one, have you decided how much you are going to replace and what you are going to re-use yet.

 

Best of Luck with it

have ordered new couplers and clips, will reuse lower pipe but need to source an upper one.

i have emailed Gary about the radiator but he needs my vin number.

Also contacted Jimmer at powerzed for price on cam belt replacement, even though mine has only done like 4k in 12 years it is 12 years old and the idler looks like its breaking up.

looks like an expensive job tbh but i would at least know it was all done right.

if it was just replacing the bits i think I would be ok its all the set up afterwards and the peace of mind that comes from someone with his level of experience completing the job 100%

Gary just got back to me 5-7 days 126.50 +vat for the new radiator

That radiator is pretty bad, but the pipes will be fine. A wire brush will soon take the gunk off the pipes.

Radiator ordered and both bypass pipes ordered from banzai breakers £30 delivered

 

Now looking at ordering cam belt kit with belt tensioner and 2idlers for 280 thinks it’s a gates kit

Can still get water pump direct from Nissan £87 plus vat.

So lots of money on bits will have to do the work myself now lol

Good news is replaced the two coolant sensor after repairing broken wire and for the first time in two years my temp gauge started moving