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I'm trying to make a 300zx clock run on a battery. I was all confident but I cant make it work.

 

20180106_161344.jpg

 

I thought the clock was a serviceable item. So I assume the battery has insufficient current???

 

I have been using crocodile clips and short lengths of wire to try and get it to do something but there are no signs of life at all.

 

Any ideas? And does anyone know which wires are which. I thought black was earth, blue was live and the others are to dim it.

 

Help please.

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I'm trying to make it function as a fun little curiosity in my trophy cabinet
Good luck i delete it for good cuse some times its works some times not

 

Sent from my G8142 using Tapatalk

I'm trying to make a 300zx clock run on a battery. I was all confident but I cant make it work.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]110189[/ATTACH]

 

I thought the clock was a serviceable item. So I assume the battery has insufficient current???

 

I have been using crocodile clips and short lengths of wire to try and get it to do something but there are no signs of life at all.

 

Any ideas? And does anyone know which wires are which. I thought black was earth, blue was live and the others are to dim it.

 

Help please.

 

Lovely idea Tom.

 

Hope someone can help you out with the wiring.

  • Author

I think it's a milliamp shortage... When it didn't work I tried every combination of + and - wiring

 

A xar battery would be a bit heavy in the glass cabinet :lol:

  • Author

Oh good point. So could I try something with a laptop charger or phone charger????

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

I'm going to go bang aren't I :lol:

Here is the schematic Tom. The clock relies on two +12v supplies (one for running with LED display on/key in and the other for

no key in). Ground wire and two wires to control dim display when lights are on. You can work out the colours from the

clock's chassis plug and the diagram.

 

el-68.pdf

 

I've ammended the above description Tom as there are *two* connections to the illumination control system.

 

Clock's chassis plug colours:

R/Y (red/yellow stripe) is to illumination control system

LG (light green) is swiched +12v (ignition key accs)

B (black) is ground

R/L (red/blue stripe) is to illumination control system

Y is constant +12v

Edited by AndrewG

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

  • Author

20180106_194013.jpg

 

That clock does not work. I have had it clipped up to the zed battery every which way.

 

I took my radio fascia off and looked in. The yellow chassis wire connects to the blue clock wire, and the black to black. (for future me to check).

 

So next job, fix the clock!

The conical mark on the display itself is normal for this type of device - a vacuum fluorescent display. We were being lazy calling it an LCD.

 

The condition of the IC on the back however is not normal, and suggests that it has been fried (heat damage). Possibly by connecting

the power supply up incorrectly.

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

  • Author

IC... er... Integrated Circuit? You mean the millenium bug in the middle! The discolouration looks like it has a sort of varnish or sealant on the pins but not in the centre.

 

20180107_092719_Richtone(HDR).jpg

 

It's good to try things and learn about stuff. Sometimes (yesterday morning) I feel like I can fix anything, other times (more recently) I feel like Homer Simpson :lol:

 

I was looking for burned bits, lifting tracks, breaks, loose bits. But to my novice eye didn't spot whatever you can see Andrew.

What an entertaining thread, keep it up !!

 

I'd give the pcb a damn good drenching with some contact spray - hell what have you to lose :wacko:.

 

Connecting little batteries are a waste of time, 12v mains is the way to go - loads of products run off 12v, go and chop up some of your christmas decorations/lights and use their supply.

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