Hi, Ive bought a 92 TT auto just over a month ago. Its not done much mileage since it was imported 15 years ago and needs some maintenance on it, to turn it into a daily commuter (8 miles a day), and I was just looking for some advice.

 

From what I can see the car needs new tyres, brake and the cam belt doing.

 

Can anyone recommend decent pads and discs for road use. Ive seen the brembo front pads and pagid discs, and pagid rear disc and pads on euro car parts, and was wondering whether it would be advisable to put money towards ebc redstuff pads and discs, or tarox discs. And is it worth paying for drilled/grooved over standard brakes for fast road use?

 

Im also looking at changing the 17 inch alloys with 235/45 tyres for some 18's, possibly 350z forged ones, would it be wise to go for a thinner profile such as 40 or 35 with the increase in alloy size? And what tyres would be good to go with the car? I'm looking at michelin pilot sport 4's but they are expensive.

 

As I need to get the cambelt done, as its not been done in several years, could anyone recommend a place which knows 300zx's within the West Midlands/Warwickshire area?

 

Id also be looking at a possible remap in the future to take advantage of the Japspeed exhaust, so advice on a place to take it to would be appreciated.

You can’t go wrong with a set of Eagle F1’s, they’re very good tyres.

I second that Eagle F1 or ive got a set of uniroyal rainsport 3 on mine right now and they are pretty good too

Run both Goodyear Eagle F1 and Pirelli PZero and both are excellent (currently Goodyear Eagle F1). To be honest you can't go wrong with any top-end tyre manufacturer (Pirelli, Bridgestone, Goodyear etc). Avoid most mid-spec and cheap Chinese tyres. Don't skimp on tyres, they're the only thing that you car has in contact with the road.

I'm going to have to buy two rear Bridgestone Potenzas in the new year for mine at £300 a corner! But like Simon just said, don't get tight when it comes to buying rubber!

another optionif you want max grip is either federal rsr's or tri ace raceing king series semi slicks, might not last as long but give way more grip than eagles or pilot sport IMO and there half the price, i couldn't put my power down with eagles f1 or pilot sport 3's but now no problems on the semi slicks and there not to bad in the wet either surprisingly

Half the price for a reason. I personally would not trust a tyre from those manufacturers.

 

Federal are 'OK' for a mid range tyre though.

thats fair enough im just speaking from personal experience with the tyres the pilots 3s and eagle f1 never gave me anywhere near the grip i have now i can actually launch properly with the federals will be moving onto the tri ace next year as alot of people ive spoken to rate them and they cant be that bad if people are using them in competition and winning so worth a go i think

I'm going to have to buy two rear Bridgestone Potenzas in the new year for mine at £300 a corner! But like Simon just said, don't get tight when it comes to buying rubber!

 

Just bought two new Bridgestone Potenzas rear tyres to match my new fronts and paid £450 for both delivered, German supplier but no issue with prompt delivery to the UK, of course I then had to get them to Portugal but that is actually easy, not sure of your tyre size but these are not skinny one`s by any measure !

 

Here is the e-bay link https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/roundtriptyres-co-uk?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

 

 

Jeff

 

 

 

Exactly the same size as that! I'm interested. I'd rather pay £350 for two like.

 

I think the VXR8 OE was 275/35/R19 Potenzas though so I may go down that route too

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Rather pay £450 for two I meant.

I’ve been tempted by those Federal RSR myself in the past, Jayden. I know they’re not renowned for being a premium brand manufacturer but when pitted head to head against any premium brand road summer tyre, they would annihilate them in the dry! Obviously wet grip would have a reverse effect, although it’s good to hear they aren’t too bad. I’d imagine in standing water, you could find yourself sailing quite easily when the road tyres would still have plenty of grip.

 

They also fall short in the wear rate category against a road tyre but it depends how you use the car. I don’t use mine enough to be too concerned about wear rates so if a tyre offers more grip on a dry sunny day (the majority of my journeys), then what’s not to like about them? [emoji106]

I’ve been tempted by those Federal RSR myself in the past, Jayden. I know they’re not renowned for being a premium brand manufacturer but when pitted head to head against any premium brand road summer tyre, they would annihilate them in the dry! Obviously wet grip would have a reverse effect, although it’s good to hear they aren’t too bad. I’d imagine in standing water, you could find yourself sailing quite easily when the road tyres would still have plenty of grip.

 

They also fall short in the wear rate category against a road tyre but it depends how you use the car. I don’t use mine enough to be too concerned about wear rates so if a tyre offers more grip on a dry sunny day (the majority of my journeys), then what’s not to like about them? [emoji106]

 

yes completely agree with you it all depends on what you use your car for the reasons you stated are exactly why i went for them i hardly bother going out in the wet as it gets boring spinning up in every gear so max grip in dry conditions was the factor for me,unfortunately the rsr only go's up to 285 max width which is too skinny for my new wheels, so now moving on to the tri ace racing kings as they do the 315 size will be going for in soft compound. i have herd a lot of good things about them so hopefully will be as good as the rsrs if not better :)

Turns out the wobble was just the wheel nuts. But I didn't have the right socket to tighten them. However the new bosch battery which I bought from carparts4lesswas completely dead after 2 weeks of standing so im thinking that something may be draining it. But as I've had issues with a few cars batteries going dead I thinking that it may be worth buying a jumper battery pack instead of having to move around cars to jump them every time.

 

Has anyone got one that they can recommend?. I've been looking at this as it's reviewed well. DBPOWER 1200A Portable Car Jump Starter, Car Battery Booster & Charger Pack - Power Bank Portable Charger with QC3.0 Output and LED Flashlight - Super Lightweight & Ultra Compact - Ultimate Safety Protection (Black/Blue) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MT1AACJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZeqsAbWGM04JY

Also found this as well but it would need to be able to start my class and potentially a V10 M6 or S6 in the future.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Also found this as well but it would need to be able to start my class and potentially a V10 M6 or S6 in the future.

 

Car Jump Starter, Tacklife 600A 16500mAh Emergency Booster Pack, Battery Pack, Power bank with 3 Output Ports 12V/10A, 5V / 2A, 5V / 1A and 3 LED Modes ( Canvas Carry Case Included) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075HBDN95/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_72qsAbZQ8QRX4

Turns out the wobble was just the wheel nuts.

 

Always worth checking the most obvious things first! Good to know that is all it was.

I have this booster or power bank, very good it is too, i've had it several years now.

 

https://www.suaoki.com/g7-plus.html

 

You've certainly got too much dark current on your battery which is first to address, an healthy battery should not drain in two weeks, consider buying yourself a trickle charger as well.

As Andy says above you should test for a parasitic drain if a new fully charged battery is discharging in two weeks.

 

https://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain

 

Make sure the obvious things like interior lights (cabin and boot) are off when the doors and boot are closed. Glove

box light (if you have one). Alarm system if fitted is correctly working (no warning light flashing when arming).

 

Check that the interior light (above your head) actually works as the room lamp relay will still draw power

even if the bulb is blown.

Edited December 31, 20177 yr by AndrewG

Ive found some alloys with some tyres which if I can agree a price with the seller i'll be picking up soon. Still got lots of other things to address though.

 

The problem is that although they are 8j front and 9j rear. The fronts are 245/40 18's and the 9j rears have 265/35 18's but the fronts have over 5mm of tread and the rears need replacing, but the rolling radius would differ due to the width of the fronts being 245 instead of 235.

 

Would it be ok to run 245/40 on the front with the 265/35 rears, or would I need to change them for 235/40.

 

The car doesn't have traction control, and I dont know anything about the diff, but would there be much of a negative impact on the car just running the 245's on the front until they have worn down to the point where they need replacing?

Would there be much difference if put 225/40 instead of 235/40 on the front and 255/35 instead of 265/35 on the rear. Would it affect the Speedo much because I can save £80 by going for 10mm narrower tyres

I wouldn't worry about it. You're talking mm on the differences, I bet it will be the width of a speedo needle.

 

With regard to handling and stuff, you don't hoon about do you, the small difference in width is less of a factor than tyre brand and rubber and indeed old and new tyres. I personally think It'll be fine.

 

What was your question about diffs? ^^^^

Get 35 profiles on the front also, it will look more even.

 

It's 1cm skinnier so not the biggest effect, but do make sure you don't get offbrand cheap tyres

Caution! Tyre discussion! Warning Opinions inbound :lol:

you don't get offbrand cheap tyres

 

^^ This!!

Would there be much difference if put 225/40 instead of 235/40 on the front and 255/35 instead of 265/35 on the rear. Would it affect the Speedo much because I can save £80 by going for 10mm narrower tyres

 

I did this, i wanted a 40 profile front and rear when strictly speaking it's 40 rear and 45 front for a 17 inch wheel.

 

I don't recall what it was like before or of course from the factory but when i checked against GPS about 2 years ago it read higher with the 'wrong' tyres, perhaps 3mph but could of been 5, 6mph up at about 100mph iirc.

 

To compensate i moved the needle down a notch on the spindle, it's possible if you're that way inclined and so it moves off later if you get me, giving me back the 3, 5mph, etc.

 

The needle does shake about as we all know, so a few mph is not important but you need to know if it's incorrect and by how many.

 

I have had brand new 'virgin' clocks though on other vehicles and in my experience they read a little high anyway.

Since my diff swap mine is "proper wrong" 10s of mph and of course, it's only a part time speedo these days :lol: Normally knocks off at 60mph indicated (45mph actual). I know the revs for 70, 60 and 30, then for the rest I'm eyes out anyway. When I have the car totally apart I will fix it all electronically.

I wouldn't worry about it. You're talking mm on the differences, I bet it will be the width of a speedo needle.

 

With regard to handling and stuff, you don't hoon about do you, the small difference in width is less of a factor than tyre brand and rubber and indeed old and new tyres. I personally think It'll be fine.

 

What was your question about diffs? ^^^^

 

There would be some hooning but the £80 saving would be on new tyres. Although at the moment a staggered setup may not happen as I missed out on the alloys I was trying to buy, and I may end up getting some Bola B1 alloys as i've seen some 9.5j ones at a good price and may pick them up tomorrow. Just got to work out whether they fit...