So, was finally hoping to see my knock sensor today, stripped down everything to get the lower intake off, didn't realise what a nightmare it would be to get the timing belt cover off! Anyway, got everything freed up, all bolts removed, went to pull the intake up, and it was lose, I thought here we go finally...but something was stopping it.

 

 

 

Turns out it's a PCV hard pipe at the rear that literally snakes in an around the back of the intake in a 'U' shape, over around the studs (green arrows).

 

 

 

There's even a support bracket that attaches the PCV hard pipe to the water pipe above (orange circle)!

 

 

As I'll be doing the coolant bypass, I think I can get rid of this pipe anyway?

 

This PCV hard pipe could have gone straight over or around the EGR (which is removed), but no lets bend in and over the intake bolts...ahh why!! :angry:

 

 

Anyway, I've looked at some images of the back of the engine (pipe highlighted with green arrows) -

 

 

There seems to be two brackets (brown arrows), and I was able to remove the furthest left, but I can't tell if they're actually connected to the pipe. It could be simply held in pace my the PCV hoses (and that metal support bracket to the water pipe)?

 

Basically the pipe has to be moved out of the way before the intake can be removed. I'd had enough for one day, so figured I'd post my progress and ask the experts.

 

Any help would be very much appreciated.

 

Cheers!

The right hand brown arrow isn't connected to it, there looks to be be two brackets that are using the lower intake bolts and there a connection on the left hand side of the right hand vtc solenoid

Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to look at it further today, spend the time on the new plenum and cleaning/painting the throttle bodies. I'm wondering if I can loosen the clamps on the PCV hose, allowing the hard pipe to rotate upwards.

 

I'm tempted to cut a slot in the timing belt backing shield, just enough to get the tensioner bolt on the front of the intake up and out, then maybe I can gently force the back out. I have a feeling I'm going to need to cut the bracket joining the PCV and coolant pipe first though.

Just for your information:

 

Seen as you have removed the upper timing belt pulley the belt adjuster will have sprung open, well should off, you will not be able to re tension the belt correctly, also it could of moved on the lower crank pulley and you will not know it.

 

You will have to strip the front down including the crank pulley and the metal cam belt cover to correct access, and of course fit a new belt at the same time, consider also a new water pump, thermostat, cam belt pulleys, and for sure the two large rubber inlet hoses.

 

Belt fitting tips here with pictures >>

 

https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?135139-Align-timing-belt&highlight=Cambelt+timing

 

 

 

Belt run >>>>

 

 

 

 

Jeff

Edited July 9, 20178 yr by JeffTT

Nice one Jeff, could so easily of been overlooked. :thumbup:

Thanks for this. However the belt hasn't moved, and nothing has sprung, it remains the same as if I hadnt removed the tensioner. The belt is dipped at the top where the tensioner was, so once I'd replaced the knock sensor was just going to put the tensioner back.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Thanks for this. However the belt hasn't moved, and nothing has sprung, it remains the same as if I hadnt removed the tensioner. The belt is dipped at the top where the tensioner was, so once I'd replaced the knock sensor was just going to put the tensioner back.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

Be worth taking your time to do it proper mate, even if you just remove the fans belts etc and the front cover to check it's all aligned again. For the sake of what two hours? Could end up rather painful on your pocket...