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  • Author
Sorry Dave, I was being frivolous.

 

Scroll down to Error code 13:

 

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/main/view/1105629/The-Ultimate-Guide-to-ECU-Diagnostics.html

 

Thanks Andrew,

 

I will check the sensor out as the directions suggest.

My only concern is that it does not go into any detail with regards to the correct resistance etc;

I understand that if there was an open circuit the cooling fan would kick in, but this is not the case.

 

So far I have checked that the sensor is receiving 5v's, well, 4.8v to be precise.

The resistance across the terminals of the sensor itself is 478 ohms, but she is a tad warm still.

 

I will remove and clean and check for faults as described.

I understand that if there was an open circuit the cooling fan would kick in, but this is not the case.

 

Possibly the fan motor does not work or the codes are old, reset and see if it returns.

 

Symptoms of the normal bad connection on the temp sensor is lumpy tick over and possible hot start issue also cutting out at junctions due to over fueling

 

 

Jeff

Edited by JeffTT

  • Author
Maybe the fan motor does not work.

 

Jeff

 

Thought the same Jeff, but with everything running and the connector removed, the fan kicks in.

I will as you say, do a reset and check again after tomorrow's run.

 

I have noticed a lumpy/intermittent tickover of late, sort of an irregular misfire so to speak.

 

Also, I do have a slightly lazy start when warm, but as yet, no stalling though.

Edited by redwine300

Thought the same Jeff, but with everything running and the connector removed, the fan kicks in.

I will as you say, do a reset and check again after tomorrow's run.

 

I have noticed a lumpy/intermittent tickover of late, sort of an irregular misfire so to speak.

 

Also, I do have a slightly lazy start when warm, but as yet, no stalling though.

 

If the code was current you would have running issues that make the car very unpleasant to drive and cutting out.

 

One additional question that springs to mind is, could this be holding me in safety boost?

 

No.

 

Jeff

  • Author

Cheers Jeff, sounds like an old code as you say.

I have just done the reset as you advised, i'll check again tomorrow. :thumbup1:

  • Author

Well, after several resets and several restarts, I still keep getting code 13.

The only sort of running issues I have are..

 

1. an intermittent misfire

2. almost stalls when cold coming off throttle, okay when warm

3. hot start issues, starts eventually when warm, much better when cold

4. plugs appear blackened

  • Author
What are you using to do the reset and are you doing the reset with the engine running?

 

Hi Joel,

 

I am resetting the ECU through DataScan.

I have tried both with the engine running and just with the ignition on.

Each time I look at the error codes after resetting, all appears fine, code 55

  • Author
Have you checked the temperature sensor itself?

 

FSM How to:

 

[ATTACH]106282[/ATTACH]

 

Hi Andrew,

To be honest, no I haven't as yet.

Thanks for the link, I'll test it asap.

  • Author
I see so it does remove the code 13 but after subsequent restarts it comes back? Are you driving the car in that time or just starting it and checking again?

 

Hi Joel,

 

Mainly driving it, although it does do the same thing from a static restart also.

I had the same issue on mine before I replaced the harness. Splicing in a new temp sensor connector cured it but it wasn't a poor connection at the terminals causing the problem, it was the wire breaking down inside where it takes a tight radius into the loom and would intermittently go open circuit from the heat and vibration.

 

Hopefully a new sensor or connector plug will cure your code 13 but you should also investigate the fact that the aux fan isn't switching on when you disconnect that plug. Have you ever heard that fan running since you put the car back together at the front there?

 

The other issues with the smooth running of your car are likely down to the various associated connectors. It's worth cleaning them all up and seeing if there are any changes, you may require new connectors or a new harness if you want to go the whole hog! Jimmer fitted a Wiring Specialties harness to mine and it solved a plethora of hot start idle issues in one hit!

  • Author
Have you checked the temperature sensor itself?

 

FSM How to:

 

[ATTACH]106282[/ATTACH]

 

So, at cold tap temperature ohms resistance is around the 2.0 ohms

After running the sensor under a hot tap, probably achieving around 70 deg's C approximately the reading is around 0.80 ohms

So seems to be reacting in the right direction.

Having said that though, I think I will invest in a new sensor for what they cost.

  • Author
I had the same issue on mine before I replaced the harness. Splicing in a new temp sensor connector cured it but it wasn't a poor connection at the terminals causing the problem, it was the wire breaking down inside where it takes a tight radius into the loom and would intermittently go open circuit from the heat and vibration.

 

Hopefully a new sensor or connector plug will cure your code 13 but you should also investigate the fact that the aux fan isn't switching on when you disconnect that plug. Have you ever heard that fan running since you put the car back together at the front there?

 

The other issues with the smooth running of your car are likely down to the various associated connectors. It's worth cleaning them all up and seeing if there are any changes, you may require new connectors or a new harness if you want to go the whole hog! Jimmer fitted a Wiring Specialties harness to mine and it solved a plethora of hot start idle issues in one hit!

 

Hi Joel,

I have since tried 2 sensors now but still have the same error code appearing.

As you say, it is more than likely the harness itself as it does look a tad heat baked and a bit tired.

As for the fan itself, I have since disconnected the connector several times, and on each occasion the auxiliary fan has kicked in.

I have checked several connectors so far and they are all looking a bit worse for wear to be honest.

Looks like a new harness may be the order of the day as you say.

  • Author
I assume you mean Kilo (thousand) ohms?

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]106289[/ATTACH]

 

Sorry Andrew,

Yes, you are correct.

  • Author
When mine did it was because the connection plug was crap, replaced it and it's hunky dory now.

 

Thanks Steven,

 

My connector was a bit grotty to say the least.

I have since cleaned and greased it but to no avail I'm afraid.

One of these should fix your code 13 issue.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/wiring-connector-assy-repair/nissan/300zx-coolant-temperature-sensor-aac-valve-repair-harness-p-2814.html

 

Maybe worth asking if anyone is doing an order imminently to add it on. Mike may also be able to supply these, otherwise I'm sure the connector will be common to many other applications and be widely available.

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