Who has HIDS, wattage, kit used and price, how long has it been in your car?

What is a good HID 5000w kit? Where did you guys install the ballast since the engine gets hot? Any pics? I know it's an old topic but I'm curious.

 

Some are saying to use LED kits but is it a difference and is it worth it?

 

Regards

 

Ikon

Didn't buy them so can't answer the top questions, but I have 6000k HIDs, and I mounted the Balst in the wings next to the wiring loom.

Ive had them in my car about a year, been in the old car for easily 2 years.

Edited September 8, 20169 yr by Alic

Stock is best if you can stomach the expense.

 

 

I don't think LEDs would look good.

4300k is pretty much what an OEM emits. 8000k is way too blue and emits quite a bit less light.

I've used a variety of £30-£100 HID kits, and tbh, without taking them apart to examine the insides they are all much the same.

 

Quality control is often an issue with parts from some chinese/korean suppliers, but I ran a £35 ebay kit for years without issue (before selling the car), your luck may differ.

 

Mine are mounted beneath the headlights, by far the most discreet fitting solution but also the most time consuming to do. Made easier if you decide to take out the heatlights to clean the insides, which is always worth doing.

 

4300k is pretty much what an OEM emits. 8000k is way too blue and emits quite a bit less light.

 

Yep, here is the difference between 4300k and 6000k

 

 

Apart from the colour difference (the higher the number, the more blue it is), check how much "brighter" the 4300k is.

Edited September 8, 20169 yr by Yowser

I bought my hid kit from a company called hids 4 u. They have tge bigger ballist but are the same bulbs as the ebay kits I have had. They are better quality ballists much more robust than the ebay jobs .. I had 2 of the ebay ones fall apart. I did pay a good amount of money for them tho but I wanted to mount them under the headlight buckets so would be an arse if they kept failing. I have the 6000k kit. Very clear driving at night and I did clean out my headlights which is a very noticeable improvement with the hids.. to add I bought the 55w kit and ran the addition option loom with relay from the battery. I didn't want to draw too much current through the stock headlight wires. The stock bulb connector switches the relay and the ballists draw directly from the battery.

Edited September 8, 20169 yr by hellraiser

I bought my hid kit from a company called hids 4 u. They have tge bigger ballist but are the same bulbs as the ebay kits I have had. They are better quality ballists much more robust than the ebay jobs .. I had 2 of the ebay ones fall apart. I did pay a good amount of money for them tho but I wanted to mount them under the headlight buckets so would be an arse if they kept failing. I have the 6000k kit. Very clear driving at night and I did clean out my headlights which is a very noticeable improvement with the hids.. to add I bought the 55w kit and ran the addition option loom with relay from the battery. I didn't want to draw too much current through the stock headlight wires. The stock bulb connector switches the relay and the ballists draw directly from the battery.

 

Me too. I went for 4300k, "normal" wattage (whatever that is); and mounted the ballasts under the nose panel, either side of the induction kit.

 

They have been on the car for 7 years and are still going strong.... No issues with MOT either!

 

Richard:cool:

I was thinking about 5000w and routing it in the nose panel like ^^^ . Hopefully the harness will be long enough from the ballast.

 

Or under the lights of I remove and clean the inside of the headlight housing.

I,ve had hid in both of mine for getting the n for 10 years i would guess

 

I bought one expensive set and one cheap set ( both from dta who used to trade on here)

 

Both same colour and power

 

Both kits look very similar

 

The cheap ones flicker a bit for the first 20 secs or so but are fine after that

 

The expensive ones produce a better shape beam ( so presumably a slightly different shape lamp)

I guess I'll look over eBay and find the best kit from a seller with great feedback in selling the HID kit... I'm also understanding that the big ballast is better than the slim ballast. Is that right?

I,ve had hid in both of mine for getting the n for 10 years i would guess

 

I bought one expensive set and one cheap set ( both from dta who used to trade on here)

 

Both same colour and power

 

Both kits look very similar

 

The cheap ones flicker a bit for the first 20 secs or so but are fine after that

 

The expensive ones produce a better shape beam ( so presumably a slightly different shape lamp)

 

Got any links for DTA or any recommended seller?

He stopped trading a few years ago

55wDiamond white 6000w with regular size ballast http://m.ebay.com/itm/XENTEC-55w-HID-Conversion-Kit-H4-H7-H11-H13-9003-9005-9006-6K-5K-Hi-Lo-Bi-Xenon-/360991001606?nav=SEARCH&varId=630331847038

 

Or

 

35w diamond white 6000w with slim/thin ballast http://m.ebay.com/itm/XENTEC-SLIM-HID-Conversion-Kit-H4-H7-H11-H13-9003-9005-9006-H16-880-6K-5K-Xenon-/371101339713?nav=SEARCH

 

Or

 

Most expensive with upgraded ballast and warranty... 6000w error free $80 look at options http://m.ebay.com/itm/OPT7-9006-HID-Kit-3K-5000K-6000K-8000K-10000K-White-Blue-Xenon-Conversion-Light-/141297190210?nav=SEARCH&varId=440414672610

 

Which is best 55w or 35w for the Z32? Should I spend more cash for the OPT7 with ERROR FREE capacitor that claim to stop ALL flickering and no bulb out error? This system is like $79 vs $30 for regular HID kits.

 

I'm also looking at the 6000w it appears to have the best brightness/look or should one stick with 5000w?

Edited September 9, 20169 yr by The_Ikon

4300k 55w is what you want.

 

Ignore error-free/CANBUS stuff, it's not applicable. Doesn't matter if it does or doesn't come with it.

Why the 55w vs 35w? Also on the sites the 5000k and 6000k are most prominently purchased. I see the garage picture above by Yowser and its show a different view. I truly don't know and I'll like to get the best for the car. Thanks for telling me about the error proof stuff. If it's not needed I will not waste the extra $

Edited September 9, 20169 yr by The_Ikon

Why the 55w vs 35w? Also on the sites the 5000k and 6000k are most prominently purchased. I see the garage picture and its show a different view. I truly don't know and I'll like to get the best for the car. Thanks for telling me about the error proof stuff. If it's not needed I will not waste the extra $

 

A 55w bulb will burn brighter than a 35w bulb, but it won't last as long. 5000k and 6000k are generally what people seem to go for. It all depends what you want. I'm not too sure on bulb-type on USDM Z32s, I know they're different from JDM which are also different from Euro market cars.

 

I did have 6000k on my Z, but took them off because I felt they were too blue. I wanted a better light output and also look a little more OEM. It wasn't easy finding the right fitment in 4300k, but they are about.

I've used a variety of £30-£100 HID kits, and tbh, without taking them apart to examine the insides they are all much the same.

 

Quality control is often an issue with parts from some chinese/korean suppliers, but I ran a £35 ebay kit for years without issue (before selling the car), your luck may differ.

 

Mine are mounted beneath the headlights, by far the most discreet fitting solution but also the most time consuming to do. Made easier if you decide to take out the heatlights to clean the insides, which is always worth doing.

 

 

 

Yep, here is the difference between 4300k and 6000k

 

 

Apart from the colour difference (the higher the number, the more blue it is), check how much "brighter" the 4300k is.

 

Never had the Z headlights out. Are they easy to remove without chipping or breaking anything? Ive read Andrews recommendations on cleaning and I agree with both of you guys!

A 55w bulb will burn brighter than a 35w bulb, but it won't last as long. 5000k and 6000k are generally what people seem to go for. It all depends what you want. I'm not too sure on bulb-type on USDM Z32s, I know they're different from JDM which are also different from Euro market cars.

 

I did have 6000k on my Z, but took them off because I felt they were too blue. I wanted a better light output and also look a little more OEM. It wasn't easy finding the right fitment in 4300k, but they are about.

 

I'll go with the 55w 5000k $30 kit then... Also where did you install your ballast?

 

I'm from the US what's a wing in the UK? Alic installed his ballast there!

Thanks

Edited September 9, 20169 yr by The_Ikon

I'll go with the 55w 5000k $30 kit! Also where did you install your ballast?

 

I'm from the US what's a wing in the UK? Alic installed his ballast there!

Thanks

 

Wing is a fender. I wouldn't put them there. If you need to access them for any reason, you'll have to remove it.

 

I installed mine under the headlights between the headlight bucket and the crash bar. There's a flat surface there where the old ducting goes where they can be mounted completely out of sight.

Wing is a fender.

 

I installed mine under the headlights between the headlight bucket and the crash bar. There's a flat surface there where the old ducting goes where they can be mounted completely out of sight.

 

Thanks brother! I also just saw a 4300k 55w kit on eBay for $30 too. 4300 or 5000k, 6k damn you've got me debating! 5k says hyper white and 4300k is oem color.

 

Heads or tails...! Winner take all..........

I personally wouldn't go for 6000k.

Never had the Z headlights out. Are they easy to remove without chipping or breaking anything? Ive read Andrews recommendations on cleaning and I agree with both of you guys!

 

I found the headlights to be a complete pain in the ass to remove, get someone with small hands, I had my 12 year old to help me, they're held by 4 bolts which thread upwards, the inside ones are a nightmare to get to, I had to move out the radiator to get access. If you can take your time doing it, they can be done in a few hours, once out, cut a slot in the top of the bolts so that you can use a screwdriver to tighten and loosen them from the top, as Funkysi has said, when you do them you will see all the old air ducting for the original air box, I removed them and it leaves a nice space for the HID ballasts :thumbup1:

 

Edit.. I had my front bumper off to do this, think it might be in my build page also:thumbup1:

Edited September 9, 20169 yr by Richie K

Best way to remove headlights without any fear of damage is to remove the front bumper.

I found the headlights to be a complete pain in the ass to remove, get someone with small hands, I had my 12 year old to help me, they're held by 4 bolts which thread upwards, the inside ones are a nightmare to get to, I had to move out the radiator to get access. If you can take your time doing it, they can be done in a few hours, once out, cut a slot in the top of the bolts so that you can use a screwdriver to tighten and loosen them from the top, as Funkysi has said, when you do them you will see all the old air ducting for the original air box, I removed them and it leaves a nice space for the HID ballasts :thumbup1:

 

Yep, the back bolt is a pain and I don't have huge hands. even with the front bumper off there is so little clearance with the front fan and the air con condenser.

Best way to remove headlights without any fear of damage is to remove the front bumper.

 

Thanks Si, forgot to mention that I had the front bumper off to do mine:thumbup1:

I'm just building some 89 spec headlights and when i looked through my 'stock' realized i didn't have any spare ballasts,so bought these

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262522400201?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Nothing wrong with buying separately, surprised his Funkiness has not mentioned H3c HID bulbs which you should try and locate.

 

6000k is a tad on the blue side (hence less light as said), personally i go for 5000k or 4300k.

 

You can buy 50cm extenders if need be, to enable ballasts to be mounted under the nose panel or wherever you desire, mine are just plonked where i can get at them.

 

My experience is i've always bought from the far east with hardly an issue, it's all cheap enough these days to replace so always have spares handy.