BC Racing or Driftworks ? what do you chaps think is the better solution for street and occasional drag strip use.

 

BC BR RS 8/6Kg/mm Nissan 300ZX Z32 1990-1996

 

Or

 

DRIFTWORKS HSD MONOPRO COILOVERS NISSAN 300ZX Z32 VG30 DRIFT TRACK SUSPENSION (Fits: Nissan 300 ZX)

Spring rates: 7kg/mm (front), 5kg/mm (rear)

Front top mounts: Pillowball

Rear top mounts: Rubber

I have the HSD's.............on the car when i got it and can report no issues at all and would recommend but i cannot compare to anything else i've had though.

my mate just bought HSD's and I fit them for him ,I got to say very nice ride

The HSD have a more street friendly spring rate, but I would personally want rubber top mounts front and rear.

The HSD have a more street friendly spring rate, but I would personally want rubber top mounts front and rear.

For a street car I 100%agree

THe HSD's would be the better quality coilover of the two, however I would personally go "Meister R" for that sort of price bracket coilover.

 

The owner, Jerrick developed the coilover specification with the aid of Nitron (Highly regarded Motorsport UK Suspension company) for UK roads, plus has excellent UK support and is active on this Forum and there is a 10% club discount. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?167629-10-OFF-Free-Shipping-for-MeisterR-Coilovers!-Code-300ZX

Edited August 4, 20169 yr by Yowser

THe HSD's would be the better quality coilover of the two, however I would personally go "Meister R" for that sort of price bracket coilover.

 

The owner, Jerrick developed the coilover specification with the aid of Nitron (Highly regarded Motorsport UK Suspension company) for UK roads, plus has excellent UK support and is active on this Forum and there is a 10% club discount. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?167629-10-OFF-Free-Shipping-for-MeisterR-Coilovers!-Code-300ZX

I couldnt agree more.

Meister R with rubber mounts and 4/6kg spring combo not the 6/8. This will give any normal weight family estate version a smooth compliant ride with enough firmness to press on thru bends etc..

That is the combo I have on my lightweight slicktop and due to the much reduced weight it gives me superb " on track" handling. Although some of that is also due to my use of Stillen uprated sway bars and endlinks.

Do not make the mistake of overspringing or over dampening a mainly road car.

It will be fine for the smooth 1/4mile too

Thanks Pete. Out of curiosity what is the real world impact of having a higher spring rate of 8 - 6. Is it likely to break traction easily ? Do you know what the stock rates are ? What I need to ensure is not too much suspension travel at the back due to the widened arches. Bodymech cut the old arches back for me and placed a wide arch on it similar to Bob's race car. what I have found is the current tein setup sometimes rubs on the cut back portion of the old arch. I currently have tein adjustable and have a 2 inch gap between the top of the tyre and the inside edge of the plastic over arch. And probable 4 inches between the tyre and the cut back old arch lip. So I'm sure something is wrong to enable it to rub from time to time

Your fouling issue is probably down to having the wrong offset wheel or the wrong ride height. Unless one of your existing units is completely fckd... that would cause it also.

To make any objective assesment you really need to know what rate your current springs are. You also need to remove the springs and check the damping function of each unit.

Without some basic "ground zero" data you will end up running round in circles spending money and possibly not getting anywhere.

Choosing complex items like suspension units is itself a complex process.

Since we are a very diverse forum in respect of our cars, our use of the car and our age and wealth/lack of it you are not ever going to get a consensus of 100% agreement on this issue.

Figures vary with different types of suspension and with different weights of cars.So you cant easily translate from other makes or models.

In general terms the higher the spring rate you use the less compliant the car will be with road surface changes.

The higher the damper rate(which is separate to spring rate) the less reactive the unit will be to surface changes.And remember clever suspension units have different bound and rebound rates which just adds another layer of complexity.

I cant tell you what stock rates are but Im sure one of our experts will be along to tell you... cue AndrewG, Joely. Funky one etc.

They are less than any coil over combo tho.

Non road use race cars have high spring rates and high damping rates cos they are used on a smooth uniform surface.

Road cars need to have lower rates for sure. Too high on the road means the car will patter and skip and or bang and crash. Persistent use will result in chassis fractures as we have experienced on my mates 240Z track/Time Attack car in the past.

 

All that and I havent even got to spring preload .......And the fact that some coilovers are separate ride height and preload adjustable and some arent. And many owners confuse these two functions.

Not all coilovers were created equal!!

Thanks Pete, ill take a few snaps of what is currently and upload them so you may have something a little better to comment.

What you need to make an objective decision is data/facts.

Are your current dampers in good working order.?

Are your springs in good working order.? What are the rates? What are the free lengths? How much preload do you have?? Ie number of turns up on the platform from a no play base point.

What width rear wheel do you have.?

What is the offset.?

Are your current units height adjustable? Is this separate to spring carrier collar?

Have you tried adjusting anything on your current setting??

You need to address all of this before spending £600 quid...ish on new units that might not be required.

 

ill take a few snaps

I suspect they wont tell us much but go ahead anyway.

Well I took a look at mine today. They looked fine . Apart from the oil that was pissed all over the blasted things.

Well I took a look at mine today. They looked fine . Apart from the oil that was pissed all over the blasted things.

 

They are leaking??

The back ones? Both? just one?

both leaking , pass side rear covered in oil , driver side rear not quite as covered,

both leaking , pass side rear covered in oil , driver side rear not quite as covered,

 

As always remote diagnosis of a problem via the internet is tricky but that could be the cause of you catching the bodywork.

No effective dampening will mean the spring isnt protected to any extent from the full weight of the car on compression. IMHO

Slick Pete you have done very well to break all that down.

 

It is so hard to explain over text without units and set up in front of you.

 

I would add that the right geometry set up can also do wonders to how the car feels and behaves even when the suspension set up is 100% as desired.