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Well my Bosch 068 has died after about 3 and a half years (and the previous Bosch only lasted 3)

 

So I'm curious, for those of you that use their z's as a infrequent play thing, what batteries do you prefer

 

Cheers

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Well my Bosch 068 has died after about 3 and a half years (and the previous Bosch only lasted 3)

 

So I'm curious, for those of you that use their z's as a infrequent play thing, what batteries do you prefer

 

Cheers

I have a Bosch silver 068.Its been in the car more than 3 years. My car can sit for weeks on end without being started.

while talking about batteries is it possible to get a low height/low profile! battery for a Z got issue with the arms for the bonnet strut catching on the top of my existing battery and bulging the bonnet.

 

dan

There are many good batteries out there and some rubbish ones but a major consideration is that parasitic current draw will KILL any battery if the car is not used on a regular basis. There are many known issues with the zed and like all older cars where corrosion in electrical connectors can actually be where the random current draw occur`s in the main any connectors in close proximity to the targa drains and other electrical connection behind the passenger front wheel arch for the head lights.

 

The danger is to buy an battery based on other zed owners experience when they maybe lucky enough to have a zed with non of the former mentioned problems, get the connectors checked / cleaned sprayed with WD4O or similar and do not forget the fusebox too drivers side foot well, fit a branded battery and give some thought to buying an electronic battery conditioner that can be left connected.

 

Jeff

 

 

 

Some of the typical connector issues caused by targa drains here >

 

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?175920-Pesky-targa-drains-and-electrical-issues&highlight=targa+drains

 

connectterr.jpg

Edited by JeffTT

while talking about batteries is it possible to get a low height/low profile! battery for a Z got issue with the arms for the bonnet strut catching on the top of my existing battery and bulging the bonnet.

 

dan

 

See the link i have put in post 2, the battery i use is 175mm in height :yes:.

  • Author
There are many good batteries out there and some rubbish ones but a major consideration is that parasitic current draw will KILL any battery if the car is not used on a regular basis. There are many known issues with the zed and like all older cars where corrosion in electrical connectors can actually be where the random current draw occur`s in the main any connectors in close proximity to the targa drains and other electrical connection behind the passenger front wheel arch for the head lights.

 

The danger is to buy an battery based on other zed owners experience when they maybe lucky enough to have a zed with non of the former mentioned problems, get the connectors checked / cleaned sprayed with WD4O or similar and do not forget the fusebox too drivers side foot well, fit a branded battery and give some thought to buying an electronic battery conditioner that can be left connected.

 

Jeff

 

 

 

Some of the typical connector issues caused by targa drains here >

 

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?175920-Pesky-targa-drains-and-electrical-issues&highlight=targa+drains

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]98910[/ATTACH]

 

If I had my way, the car wouldn't have an alarm system, but insurance dictates otherwise.

 

I was sensible enough to clean every connector and earth point whilst the engine was out and I was wiring up the additional sensors for my Haltech setup.

 

However the car has been off the road for coming up to 3 years and infrequent charging has no doubt contributed to the death of this battery.

I dont have an alarm!

My insurance company have'nt asked or said its a neccessity.

  • Author

Lucky!

 

It's a condition of my agreed value policy that it needs a Cat 1 on it

Anything, as long as it's black! ha! Nothing worse than a brightly coloured battery! yuk! :rofl:

Anything, as long as it's black! ha! Nothing worse than a brightly coloured battery! yuk! :rofl:

 

Yummy !!

 

optima-yellowtop-car-batteries.jpg

See the link i have put in post 2, the battery i use is 175mm in height :yes:.

 

great thanks that looks ideal, what did slightly adapted tray involve? great looking engine bay by the way :thumbup1:

 

dan.:tongue_smilie:

Goodness, see the thread link - it's the very first post !!

 

sorry was in a hurry only read from the top! anyway ordered one now off ebay hopefully can keep my bonnet strut set up now thanks again. :thumbup1:

 

dan.:blushing:

I've recently fitted a Bosch also with no problems. BUT repeated flattening of the battery will Roger it capacity-wise. The main problem relates to extended periods of low or no charging. Even mickey mouse current drains can become significant over a couple of weeks. As a quick short term test - charge the battery - leave about four days disconnected from the car and then reconnect and try a start. If no-go replace battery. Then with or without batt replacement suggest you check the standing current load on the battery with everything 'off'- To do this disconnect the cable to the battery +ve terminal. Then connect a set-to-current multimeter in-line between this terminal and the disconnected cable (AND DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START THE CAR) and measure the current. If it is a significant fraction of an amp, investigate further. There are a few simple/precautionary things to check; Note the fuel gauge is always working, or it does on my car, but the drain is very slight. There could be a current drain if you have an audio unit with standby supply in addition to that provided by the regular accessory supply via the IGN switch. Ditto alarm if fitted and armed when parked up. Misaligned door, bonnet or tailgate microswitches (especially if an all entry point alarm is fitted) could leave the difficult-to-notice interior light on - a good gotcha that caught me out. Also I had an alarm imbedded fault which pancaked the battery in about four days. So, the place to start is to check that standing current drain and go from there... In addition to checking what is coming out of the battery you could also check what is going in (and staying in). If you have a multimeter (now set to measure volts) there are plenty of Web sites showing how to do simple and really quick health checks on your alternator and battery system in-situ. These will check the output of the alternator and also give some clear indication of the internal state of the battery - i.e. whether it is in fact OK or should be replaced. Hope this helps. Good Luck.

thanks phutumsch for info on low profile battery arrived yesterday so fitted it last night and bonnet strut set up now clears the top of battery no bulging bonnet! :clap:

 

dan. :tongue_smilie:

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