The problem I have:-

I manage a few miles and then lose 1,2,3,D and R....... turn her off...... wait 2 or 3 minutes, start and get another 10 yards or so and then repeat process to limp home..... 100 yards at a time!

Seems to be correct fluid level on dipstick....

I haven't touched her in months for my own Sanity and fear of Divorce....... I needed to take a step back and read up....... lol

 

I have finally got enough time in leu to book wednesday off work..... as long as it isn't peeing it down or blowing a gale outside still...... (Wife at work, kids at school)

 

I am going to warm her up and try to test the transmission again and see if she throws up any codes.

If not then get her fluid drained and drop the pan again to check the filter seal?

 

I keep trying to find out what could cause the problem I have of loss of any drive when she warms up, but returns when you let the fluid settle for a couple of minutes..... then drive temporarily returns!

I keep thinking loss of line pressure due to o'ring not sealing on the filter?

Lack of fluid,

Blockage in system

or

Failing electronics??

 

If it was the clutch packs, surely it would just slip all the time hot or cold?

And not in all gears?

Only other thing I thought was unlucky and have 2 dodgy torque converters??

 

I can't find anything on the net with this same problem where drive returns....... What am I missing?

 

I now have the full manual for the auto transmission, a full breakdown of parts used and suppliers of the parts....... just need to learn how it works, find what is causing the problem and fix it...... lol

This is a common issue caused directly by the fluid strainer getting blocked by debris in the fluid, once the strainer is completely blocked all fluid pressure is lost and hence drive is also lost. By waiting for the fluid to run back through the box and semi flush the strainer as it flows back by gravity the fluid pressure can again return, this of course is short lived as the strainer will block up again.

 

So there is no other option but to drain the box and remove the sump pan, this gives access to the strainer which can be cleaned out, the box can be sprayed clean from below and also remove and flush the cooler pipes and the cooler itself.

 

The only issue you have is the torque converter will not be drained so there is likely to be debris still in there so even if after filling and all is ok you would be advised to do it again a week later or a couple of hundred miles or so.

 

The chances are is the debris is either brake band or clutch material, this could be a build up of over time without fluid changes or it could be a sudden onset due to a failure in a band or clutch plate, its just something you have to try and hope it works, if not its a rebuild or manual conversion.

 

Jeff

Cheers Jeff, I swapped the old box out and the replacement is doing the same thing... I thought I had done something wrong....

I cleaned the filter prior to fitting replacement box, filled with fresh fluid, checked level when warm and cycled through the gears. Then it did it again...

I am now wondering if I might have caught the o'ring on the filter when I refitted it?

I will check the fluid and run it through a filter when I empty her to see what it looks like......

Nobody seems to want to rebuild a transmission for me so I may give it a go on the original box when I get my work area clean enough to attempt it......

I did find that it is the same box as the RX7 and a few other Nissan's...... with a few subtle differences.....

Thanks for the advice Jeff........ always welcomed......

Did you use the torque converter from the previous box or the replacement?

 

Jeff

Hi, amazing I had exactly the same issue this weekend!! Hopefully this coming weekend I will be taking the strainer out and giving it a good clean, will see what happens. Good luck with yours hope you get it sorted.

Did you use the torque converter from the previous box or the replacement?

 

Jeff

Hi Jeff, I used the one that came with the replacement box. It looked in better condition, so drained and refilled with fresh fluid before fitting..............

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

If I find the problem I will let you know Paulc..........

Honestly mate, save your pennies and go manual. So much less headaches.

Many thanks

Honestly mate, save your pennies and go manual. So much less headaches.

 

:yes: do it! Do it now :biggrin:

Honestly mate, save your pennies and go manual. So much less headaches.

:yes: do it! Do it now :biggrin:

 

I literally do not have the money or time to do it........ plus I love my auto......... If it was Manual I would be sideways everywhere!!!!!

And probably kill myself within a day or 2......... lol

Financially speaking I think it's cheaper to convert russ, with a new master slave and clutch it will last years if not abused, and although you have the calf muscles of the Incredible Hulk it will only go sideways if you make it, I do understand the auto is nice to drive but honestly converting mine was without doubt the right thing to do and my auto wasn't even playing up, I just got the TT conversion to do next :biggrin:

Financially speaking I think it's cheaper to convert russ, with a new master slave and clutch it will last years if not abused, and although you have the calf muscles of the Incredible Hulk it will only go sideways if you make it, I do understand the auto is nice to drive but honestly converting mine was without doubt the right thing to do and my auto wasn't even playing up, I just got the TT conversion to do next :biggrin:

 

Exactly this. Time and it's gotta of cost you to keep going round in circles with the auto box. I know it's hindsight but you probably would of broken even.

After having both TT auto and manual they both have there up points.Auto is easy to drive but still fun (I even drive an auto day to day), where as the manual is just a completely different animal!

It's a shame you can't get both in one like my BMW!

Oh Russ.......

 

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=262232010629

 

:whistling:

After having both TT auto and manual they both have there up points.Auto is easy to drive but still fun (I even drive an auto day to day), where as the manual is just a completely different animal!

It's a shame you can't get both in one like my BMW!

 

Yeah but that's not a proper manual is it :lol:

Oh Russ.......

 

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=262232010629

 

:whistling:

 

There is no mileage on it :s

I wouldn't trust it if there was.

Well been out in garden moving original transmission into my garage so I can see what I am doing....

Now bolted to my engine stand, drained and sump off...... I am going to slowly dissect it, bag and tag and try to see what I can find.

I have the full manual and rebuild guide, so may as well try to have a look at how bad the old unit was and what gave way....

I'm off to the US in March, so going to try to buy a rebuild kit over there to avoid postage costs.....

Yeah but that's not a proper manual is it :lol:

Good point but its as close as you'll get.I do prefer manual myself but also love the laid back laziness of an auto.

Have you ever thought it may be a fault within the gearbox ecu? It seems a little odd that two boxes have the same fault. Also a little odd that the problem resets when the ignition is switched off and on?

I'd hook it up to a consult and monitor the gearbox to see if the ecu is having issues.

Edited February 10, 20169 yr by NemesizX

Hopefully going to open mine up this weekend and see what state the strainer is in. Hopefully it will cure the fault if not I will have to go through the diagnostics. What slightly concerns me is my car is low mileage, less than 45,000 miles but I understand it stood still for a number of years when imported into Ireland. My previous 300zx had over 100,000 on the clock and the gearbox was as good as gold.

 

We will see.

Well tested the fault codes and it has continuous flashing as the Battery died when I got locked out....... Lost any codes that may have been there.....

So up she goes in a minute....... on blocks and drop the fluid and sump.....

Back later with update.....

Drained the fluid and it is clean and red........ run a smile through a coffee filter pretty clean...... going to filter this and see what comes out over the next week.........

Going back out in a moment to drop pan and check filter o'ring and filter........ and blow out the cooler lines to check no blockages........

Personally I'd run the car til the fault occurs again and diagnostics.. If it's been stood a long time, chances are the electronics could be a bit mouldy? I can't see why two trannys would act the same if it were the transmission. I recently saw an auto box ecu on ebay for £20 so if I were in your position I'd swap the ecu and see if your problem goes away..

Cheap option and a lot less involved. If the problems still there then you've only lost £20..

 

Just a thought.. Good luck with it though..

Cheers NemesizX...... I spoke to Baz about borrowing one a while ago, just need to find out which one I have in the Z.....

 

I did find a something weird today when looking at the internals of the original transmission and the one I fitted to replace it.

There were 2 brackets missing that hold the internal pipework in place on the valve body?

The bolts were in the holes where one bracket was missing so I took bracket off old box and fitted.

The other one had a bolt in one of the holes, but nothing in the other hole and seemed to have a spring loaded something in the bolt hole??

so left it empty.... but now wondering why one had this and the other didn't?

I wonder if this is causing a loss of pressure internally??

I replaced the o'ring to make sure, cleaned the filter thoroughly and found a tear in the mesh. I replaced with my old transmissions one after thoroughly cleaning it....

I am going to get her on the floor at weekend and refill with fluid to the correct level again, get her to running temp and see what happens....

This is what was missing........

Edited February 10, 20169 yr by veilside01702

I wouldn't think the bracket would be used for much more than stopping the pipes getting in the way of moving parts etc, the spring is probably to give the pipes some movement without allowing them to go too far.. Not sure but I can't see why it would affect the tranny in that way.

I am convinced from what you're saying that it'll turn out to be the ecu. The only other thing I can say it might be is the torque converter as this relies on pressure to work. I'd say check the electrical component first though as this is far more likely to fail than the mechanical side of things.

Let me know how you get on with it mate.. If you were closer I'd come and have a look although I'm no expert but ive had a lot of auto tranny cars in my time and a lot of auto trouble!