Anybody no of a simple way to bleed rear wheel steer rack???

 

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Self bleeds, just run the engine and top as required, there are two bleed nipples on the top of the rack but never had to use them.

 

Jeff

This is the FSM procedure for bleeding the HICAS rack (without Consult):

 

st-50.pdf

Self bleeds, just run the engine and top as required, there are two bleed nipples on the top of the rack but never had to use them.

 

Jeff

Just finished doing a shell swap and took for first mot. Failed on excessive play on rear steering rack. Mechanic said when on two poster, you could move both wheels from side to side. I could feel something wrong when driving there. I put the hicas unit on from another vehicle I had. But the main engine loom and engine are from a later 95 model which had the electric rear wheel rack, this could be the problem hey!!

 

This is the FSM procedure for bleeding the HICAS rack (without Consult):

 

[ATTACH]92622[/ATTACH]

 

 

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Play will be caused by either wear in the steering arm inner bush or lower arm out bush where it attaches, no fluid will not cause and issue, prob best fitting a lockout kit from Driftworks.

 

Jeff

 

 

 

Thanks Jeff, good advice very much appreciated. I will do exactly that.

 

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I have the driftworks delete on mine mate, your more than welcome to have a nose at it.

I have the driftworks delete on mine mate, your more than welcome to have a nose at it.

It sounds good to me mate. If Jeff recommends it and you have one and are happy with it, then that's all the convincing I need.

 

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Just bear in mind, there are cheaper kits, japspeed lock out bar for example. Sadly these retain the stock arms and ball joints that are usually what was broken to start with. You will have to modify your hubs to accept the driftworks kit. I must confess I didn't do that but myself. Jaffa did the original install.

Just bear in mind, there are cheaper kits, japspeed lock out bar for example. Sadly these retain the stock arms and ball joints that are usually what was broken to start with. You will have to modify your hubs to accept the driftworks kit. I must confess I didn't do that but myself. Jaffa did the original install.

I've ordered the driftworks kit. Hopefully should be here in a couple of days. I would like to of got it fitted before Saturday to re-mot. Alarm bells are ringing now you've mentioned modifying hubs

 

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Alarm bells are ringing now you've mentioned modifying hubs

 

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No modifying as such, but the outer hub bush needs removing completely from the lower arm as the Driftworks system has its own push in bushes.

 

(See Pic)

 

Jeff

No modifying as such, but the outer hub bush needs removing completely from the lower arm as the Driftworks system has its own push in bushes.

 

(See Pic)

 

Jeff

What's the best way to get that ball joint out Jeff?? I was thinking of making a jig to incorporate a 8 ton bottle jack to press out in situ to avoid removing hubs. I also thought about heating the housing with gas bottles, or with penetrating oil sprayed up and left over night, will it beat out with a large hammer??

 

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What's the best way to get that ball joint out Jeff?? I was thinking of making a jig to incorporate a 8 ton bottle jack to press out in situ to avoid removing hubs. I also thought about heating the housing with gas bottles, or with penetrating oil sprayed up and left over night, will it beat out with a large hammer??

 

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Here is a good general link shows how it all fits up,

 

http://www.driftworks.com/forum/technical/79044-fitting-driftworks-total-hicas-eliminator-kit.html

 

 

but removing the hub to get the bush out is way to much work: there is a method I and others have used many, many times. helps to get the car up high as possible, get to the point that the bush is free of the arm etc.

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?92607-Replacing-Outer-Hicas-Ball-Joints

 

You will need to warm up the outer hub around the bush, be aware a black hot goo will come out, when you think its hot enough wack it through, you may need a couple of tries warming and wacking.

 

Luckily the DW kit bushes fit by hand in two parts, allow the hub to cool down before fitting.

 

Jeff

Thanks for that Jeff, that's what I wanted to hear. Really didn't fancy stripping down the hubs. The kit should be with me today, so will get on with it straight away. Thanks for your help. Neil

 

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Just fitting the driftworks kit and the bushes for the hub are not in 2 halves. Also the brackets mounting to subframe don't seem to be a snug fit. They seem a little sloppy.

 

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I've sussed out the subframe fixings so that now makes sense. Just the bushes in the hub. Great quality kit but a fitting diagram would be handy.

 

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The two piece bushes must of been changed, no worries warm them in hot water and press in with a G clamp and washing up liquid.

 

Jeff

All done now. Unfortunately I cut one in half to fit, thinking that they must have supplied the wrong ones. Then lubed other side with fairly liquid and it fell in. So I will order a new bush for the other side. Your method of heating the housing on the hub worked an absolute treat. Thanks for all your help Jeff.

 

Neil

 

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All done now. Unfortunately I cut one in half to fit, thinking that they must have supplied the wrong ones. Then lubed other side with fairly liquid and it fell in. So I will order a new bush for the other side. Your method of heating the housing on the hub worked an absolute treat. Thanks for all your help Jeff.

 

Neil

 

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Nice one matey not a job everyone would take on so take a bow.

 

Jeff

Lol, thanks Jeff. I capped the two pipes to the rack by joining them together with a piece of power steering hose. I heated in boiling water and lubed and pushed it on by a good 2 inches on both connections. I have unplugged my hicas and now of course the light is on the dash. What's the answer, remove the bulb.??

 

 

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Yeah pop the bulb out mate. If you have the solenoid etc left, there's a banjo on there that creates a nice tidy hose tail off the pump back to the resi.

There are 2 connecters in the footwell for hicas ecu, unplugging one will make the steering feel heavy the other will keep the light off and steering will be normal...

if the 1st one you unplug makes steering heavy plug that back in and unplug the other...

There are 2 connecters in the footwell for hicas ecu, unplugging one will make the steering feel heavy the other will keep the light off and steering will be normal...

if the 1st one you unplug makes steering heavy plug that back in and unplug the other...

 

:thumbup: that's an awesome tip terry.

Thanks, I'll do exactly that.

Ok mate. I did have a reservoir from a later model which had electric hicas, I have a suspicion I may have binned it. Anyway back for mot retest tomorrow.

I used Terry's method today. Took all of about 2 minutes. Ive not test driven it yet but the lights out and the steering is good.