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Hey guys, I was wondering if any electrical guru's could help me try and identify the best way to install this OEM infrared keyless entry system into my Z.

 

I am aware there are much more advance and much better keyless entry systems on the market that are easier and better to use for car theft protection. I have never liked the idea of an aftermarket system and my expeirence with them has been all bad and a pain in the arse to fix or deal with. I do not want an aftermarket system so please don't offer me any as i am not interested please.

 

Anyways from what I've gathered about OEM keyless entry systems available to the Z32 this was one of the systems offered for the 89-92 models and is designed around an the use of an infrared remote and sensor which when triggered unlocks the car.

 

This particular system I believe was a dealer optioned keyless entry so not exactly OEM but as it was designed to fit into the Z it is as OEM as I can get.

 

Here is the kit I purchased

 

19117879.jpg

 

Now I was able to get a basic install layout from Nissan FAST which gives me some idea where everything should go and also the path for which the 4 separate wires I need to wire in roughly will go.

 

19117880.gif

 

I have painstakingly tracked all of the wires and made up a colored wiring diagram which I am hoping will make the install easier to do.

 

19117881.jpg

 

The upper red/black and yellow wires I'm guess relate to the illumination of the indicators, so I can see when the car has been unlocked after using the remote. My best guess for these 2 wires is to connect them to the flasher unit but I could also use the hazard switch as well.

 

The lower green and brown and black and brown wires I'm guessing are related to the alarm part of the system and might need to be connected to the system that detects when the doors are opened and closed or locked and unlocked.

 

So my best guess is to wire these 2 wires into the door lock actuators as the wiring loom for the actuators do run along the door past the door handle but I am unsure which wires I would need to wire the system too.

 

Here is a breakdown of the door lock actuator wiring.

 

19117899.jpg

 

If anyone can help me identify the best way for me to install this system i would be very much appreciated.

Featured Replies

I am missing the power feed lines in your schematic (+ 12V and GND) ?

 

my guess is the red wire is for +12V (switched), the yellow one for a constant +12V

the brown one for GND and green one for hazards or some sort of warning light on the dashboard to indicate the system is armed.

 

without a (factory) schematic this will remain a wild guess though

Although you can open up the main control module and usually see or find out which connections/pins are used for GND and power.

And in some cases the pins are named on the board

also, if it's an alarm (otherwise I wouldn't know what the horns are used for), it needs at least a sensor/switch wire, eg. connected to the interior light (module) to detect a door was opened or something.

Looks to me like the green and the brown splice into something in the door, whilst the red and yellow run out of the door

 

In the door already is ignition power and ground, so the brown being ground makes sense, i'm not sure what use a switched power would be as presumably its off if your trying to lock unlock

 

So red or yellow being permament power feed makes sense

 

I would suggest the green connects to the feed to the passenger door ( do all zed have central locking? My 95 does)

 

Then at a total guess i would think the red or yellow ( the one that isnt power) , feeds the hazards or interior light. Although as lymon says red and yellow normally indicate permanent and switched power

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

  • Author
I am missing the power feed lines in your schematic (+ 12V and GND) ?

 

my guess is the red wire is for +12V (switched), the yellow one for a constant +12V

the brown one for GND and green one for hazards or some sort of warning light on the dashboard to indicate the system is armed.

 

without a (factory) schematic this will remain a wild guess though

Although you can open up the main control module and usually see or find out which connections/pins are used for GND and power.

And in some cases the pins are named on the board

 

thanks for your suggestions lymon, you have given me a better idea what the red/black and yellow wires might be used for and the other wires i am hoping might be as you said the ground wires. As this is a very rare dearler option system I dont have any schematics to use as reference and all I have been able to find is the 94+ OEM schematic which I doubt can be used as reference for this system. I can post it up if it helps but that system uses the rear hatch theft warning module and hood release as sensors for the system which my system doesnt have. Still it may give you a better idea may be used for connecting the wires up and maybe be a key into helping me install the system into my Z.

 

also, if it's an alarm (otherwise I wouldn't know what the horns are used for), it needs at least a sensor/switch wire, eg. connected to the interior light (module) to detect a door was opened or something.

 

I figured this as well but the system layout doesnt seem to show this as being possible unless it can be triggered by the door lock actuator, which is what I have been considering is the connection point for the lower 2 wires black/ground and green/black.

  • Author
Looks to me like the green and the brown splice into something in the door, whilst the red and yellow run out of the door

 

In the door already is ignition power and ground, so the brown being ground makes sense, i'm not sure what use a switched power would be as presumably its off if your trying to lock unlock

 

So red or yellow being permament power feed makes sense

 

I would suggest the green connects to the feed to the passenger door ( do all zed have central locking? My 95 does)

 

Then at a total guess i would think the red or yellow ( the one that isnt power) , feeds the hazards or interior light. Although as lymon says red and yellow normally indicate permanent and switched power

 

Thanks mate I have been looking at lymons response and it does look that way and is perfectly logical the red/black and yellow wires are most likely the power wires for the system. I can only assume the fact there are 2 different horn parts might indicate an alarm siren for one and the other might be signal for the system locking and unlocking the car.

 

I barely know how this system works and I am trying to gather everything I can to make sense of how this system is suppose to operate and I hope I can eventually install it as i have always want a factory kelyess entry system as I have had nothing but bad experiences with aftermarket alarm systems.

The 94 factory alarm is a completely different system, so I wouldn't use that schematic for this system.

 

You could try to find the GND wire by using a multimeter and measuring the resistance between the (metal) housing or black wire and each of the 4 unknown wires.

The GND wire should be (very close to) 0 Ohm

 

looking closer at your schematic, it looks like one of the horns is in parallel with the lever unit, so it will probably honk when the the door is remotely open or close.

The other horn is in parallel with the IR-sensor and I'm not sure what effect this has.

 

Maybe you can post a few pictures of the circuit board inside the main module (pref. top and bottom of the board), maybe that will make things more clear

This should help you decode the function of the wires. It is in Japanese but google translate will work.

Scroll down to "Door inside the wiring example (infrared keyless equipped car example)"

 

http://www.zcar-owners.net/cgi-bin/diy_bbs/cbbs.cgi?mode=al2&namber=6&rev=&no=0

 

in english:

 

https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ja&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.zcar-owners.net%2Fcgi-bin%2Fdiy_bbs%2Fcbbs.cgi%3Fmode%3Dal2%26namber%3D6%26rev%3D%26no%3D0&edit-text=

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

I removed this same system from my zed soon after I bought the car, the infra red was to be honest useless unless next to the window, I threw it all in the bin, fitted a toad system, no trouble at all.

  • Author
The 94 factory alarm is a completely different system, so I wouldn't use that schematic for this system.

 

Yeah I didnt think so as the wiring loom connects to the boot and the bonnet and is much more complex compared to this system and its not an infrared system either. I only though it may give clues to points of connection for wires that I need to connect to power and ground thats all.

 

You could try to find the GND wire by using a multimeter and measuring the resistance between the (metal) housing or black wire and each of the 4 unknown wires.

The GND wire should be (very close to) 0 Ohm

 

This I will definately try and test and I would the black/brown wire to be a GND wire from what I've read so far.

 

looking closer at your schematic, it looks like one of the horns is in parallel with the lever unit, so it will probably honk when the the door is remotely open or close.

The other horn is in parallel with the IR-sensor and I'm not sure what effect this has.

 

Actually this is wrong, I decided to have a look at a wire that have some electrical tape around it and I found the wire doesn't connect to the sensor but joins up with the white/brown wire which connects to the actuator lever control unit. I need to update the schematic I made now to match that connection.

  • Author
This should help you decode the function of the wires. It is in Japanese but google translate will work.

Scroll down to "Door inside the wiring example (infrared keyless equipped car example)"

 

http://www.zcar-owners.net/cgi-bin/diy_bbs/cbbs.cgi?mode=al2&namber=6&rev=&no=0

 

in english:

 

https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ja&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.zcar-owners.net%2Fcgi-bin%2Fdiy_bbs%2Fcbbs.cgi%3Fmode%3Dal2%26namber%3D6%26rev%3D%26no%3D0&edit-text=

 

Thanks for the links mate, I actually already saved this a month again as the only real reference material I could find on the system. It doesnt really help me completely as its a how to for adding in a aftermarket remote system to the OEM system and so I didn't really read the information properly but now that I have read it I was able to get at least 3 wires identified from this photo:).

 

answer_15.jpg

 

The photo notes include the following;

 

Third from the left, (white) - the answer back green (unlock signal)

11th from the left and (brown) - answer back of blue (lock signal)

12th from the left and (red) - answer-back of red (always power signal)

 

So I know can say the red/black wire is a definitely a constant 12V power wire and the white/brown white is for the unlock signal and the brown/black wire is for the lock signal. So its a start at least. I also agree the yellow wire must be accessory 12v power, now all I need to do is work out the other 2 wires and from what it sounds like they must be GND wires of so kind. Hopefully with this new information the answer might arise from this thread or another thread I have posted on the Australian forums.

  • Author
I removed this same system from my zed soon after I bought the car, the infra red was to be honest useless unless next to the window, I threw it all in the bin, fitted a toad system, no trouble at all.

 

Yeah I can understand this system nowadays is inferior to all the current alarm technology and it would be alot easier to have a modern system keyless entry system installed into my, unfortunately for I am a purist and would prefer to have an OEM system over an aftermarket system and its just a choice thing, I am only installing this system into my Z so I can reduce scaring my door handle paint around the keyhole as well as allow me to avoid using my key to unlock the drivers door.

 

For the last year or so I have had this annoying problem with my drivers door lock where the key can actually turn the lock around by 360 degrees which I have investigated and is due to a broken/missing metal stopper on the end of the barrel and whenever my dad or a mechanic drives my car for whatever reason, they always end up flipping my lock and i then need to flip it back. I plan to fix the barrel eventually but this is to prolong the lock so it doesn't happen again in the future.

I still dont think the yellow is accessory power, if you had the key in the ignition why would you be trying to lock the car

 

Also ignition power is already available in the door if you did for some reason want it

 

I think it either turns on the interior light or flashes the hazards

 

This is easy to test, stick power on the red, ground on the brown, try the key fob and meter what the yellow wire does

 

 

The 4th wire i think must be the signal to unlock the passenger door, let me explain...

When you turn the key in the drivers door it mechanically unlocks that door and sends an electrical signal to the passenger door

So this is what we are trying to recreate with your keyless system.

So the lever control unit unlocks the drivers door mechanically, but you still nee to send a signal to the passenger door

Again this is easy to test, power it up and meter the wire

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

I still dont think the yellow is accessory power, if you had the key in the ignition why would you be trying to lock the car

 

Also ignition power is already available in the door if you did for some reason want it

 

I think it either turns on the interior light or flashes the hazards

 

 

This is easy to test, stick power on the red, ground on the brown, try the key fob and meter what the yellow wire does

 

 

The 4th wire i think must be the signal to unlock the passenger door, let me explain...

When you turn the key in the drivers door it mechanically unlocks that door and sends an electrical signal to the passenger door

So this is what we are trying to recreate with your keyless system.

So the lever control unit unlocks the drivers door mechanically, but you still nee to send a signal to the passenger door

Again this is easy to test, power it up and meter the wire

 

The lock/unlock unit fitted along with this keyless entry system simply operates the door locking mechanism, the signal to the passenger door us sent from the drivers door latch fitted to all Zeds. So the yellow wire isn't for passenger door I assure you.

  • Author
I still dont think the yellow is accessory power, if you had the key in the ignition why would you be trying to lock the car

 

Also ignition power is already available in the door if you did for some reason want it

 

I think it either turns on the interior light or flashes the hazards

 

This is easy to test, stick power on the red, ground on the brown, try the key fob and meter what the yellow wire does

 

 

The 4th wire i think must be the signal to unlock the passenger door, let me explain...

When you turn the key in the drivers door it mechanically unlocks that door and sends an electrical signal to the passenger door

So this is what we are trying to recreate with your keyless system.

So the lever control unit unlocks the drivers door mechanically, but you still nee to send a signal to the passenger door

Again this is easy to test, power it up and meter the wire

 

Thanks for all the advice mate ill definitely try and test your theory withe the yellow and 4th wires and see wat happens.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Hey guys, just a little update on how this install is going.

 

We did a bench test to see if the system actually worked before we tried to install it and with only the small amount of information I had gathered I this system I prayed for a positive result.

 

It works:), We connected the red/black power wire to a positive power source as well as connect the black/brown GND wire to earth and this was enough for the system to operate and activate the leveler actuator up and down as well as display a red indicator light on the infrared sensor when the system was in the locked position. The smaller horn also made a short beep sound as the system was activated.

 

We found the yellow wire and green/brown wire did not need to be connected for the above test of the system to work which I think means those wires must relate to the theft warning part of the system which if i can figure out would be a double bonus.

 

Anyways with the system now working i decided to attempt to install it into the drivers door and see if I can get it to all work.

 

The problem I faced immediately is i have absolutely zero clue where the leveler actuator mounts inside the door and where it attaches to so the central locking system can be locked and unlocked. I was hoping the diagram I had would reveal the exact location when I attempted to install the actuator, but what we found was there didn't appear to be any spare holes or empty clips locations on the door actuator for the system to connect to.

 

After several different places inside the door where we think it would mount we found that the actuator needs to be in the right spot at the right angle so the arm mechanism can easily pull and push the point were the central locking can be altered, which we unfortunately could not find during this initial attempt and this stopped us from going any further:(.

 

Does anyone know where this leveler actuator goes inside the door and where it is suppose to link up to? Photos would be perfect if someone was to have any, even if it is after you pulled the system out, I really need to figure this out so I can install this system.

This has pictures which may help you (scroll down a bit):

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?171779-How-To-Install-Keyless-Entry

 

This is closer to how my Nissan dealer installed actuator is located:

 

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=129218

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

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