While I'm waiting to get the car to Jimmer I'm sorting some issues while I can. The clutch is slipping but I know the clutch is good, think the problem is the rod from the slave cylinder to the fork on the box was missing so I made one up best I could. So if that is too long could that be the cause? If so does anyone know the correct length of it?

 

Best I can do unfortunately, witout a bit of kitchen roll a ruler and a PC.

 

Edit

 

Or a ruler and a slave cylinder :lol:

Bugger, no bounty in our house lol

Anything else to scale it to? You're a bit greedy as you have two of them.. Lol

Give me till tomorrow night and I'll take mine out and put a pic up and measure for you, please bump this tomorrow tea time as I'll forget lol

Good point, one was knackered but that was a seal in the cylinder not the rod. If I still have it I will send it to you mate but I really can't remember what happened to it. I will let you know either way tomorrow. :thumbup1:

Do you want me to measure for you bud?

You sure the systems correctly bled and the pedal is properly adjusted?

I had alook today but I must have thrown it out. Good luck mate :clover:

Do you want me to measure for you bud?

 

Yes please, mine is 82 mm but someone else has said it should be 65mm ?

Here we are........not a Nissan slave cylinder but the replacement brand whatever it is did the business for a dew years on my last car.

 

Thanks, trimmed mine to 65mm but still slipping! The clutch that went in was good, the slip is less after trimming down, with pedal adjustment should it be closer to the to i.e. Undo the thread switches so they come almost out or is it screw them right in to lower the switch? I've done mine out wards

I've done mine outwards too as I read on a guide the other week.

I'm having loads of trouble getting my clutch sorted (manual conversion).

 

Is your clutch capable of holding the power?

Is it slipping when driving immediately or when you've been driving a while?

Slips straight away above about 3k the rest of the time it's ok, goes into all the gears ok, nice and smooth?

If you now have the correct length rod in the slave and have adjusted the pedal upwards to give a little free play before pressing it down engages the release bearing then that eliminates any holding off of the cover plate by the hydraulics. As far as I can see the problem now lies with the clutch /release carrier/bearing inside the bellhousing

500bhp is a lot of power to hold mate

I had an OS Giken clutch years ago and it was that stiff it went through my seals in the slave and master cylinders, it was drivable but in a traffic jam the clutch started to slip and the biting point raised. I had to replace both.

Is your biting point OK?

I'm adjust the rod now at the back of the pedal, winding it into the pedal shackle i.e. out of the vacuum booster attached to the master cylinder. Biting point is getting lower so will test drive tomorrow and let you know.

iv also been having problems with my clutch since i did my manual conversion. i used a good used clutch and always assumed it was that causing it. iv got a new clutch ready to put in but may have a play about with the pedal adjustment and the rod length. but i always thought the hydraulic system was self adjusting and the pedal adjustment was just to change the hight of the pedal. but i will give it a try :)

My problem is that the pedal only feels hard at the last 20% of the stroke, the slave cylinder only moves a bit. All my components are from my old car and have done less than 5k miles. I've even made a one piece clutch line and still I feel that there is air in, but I've bled n bled ect....