Thought I'd put some pics up of my zed that I should be starting work on soon. Not a great deal to see at the moment though!

 

It's a jap TT manual, bought it last year but I've been really busy with other things (that 406 coupe is really unreliable!). The logical thing to do would be to sell it and get one a bit nicer now I've got some money, but I'm gonna plough on regardless for better or worse!

 

 

Hopefully will be able to get it resprayed either in the same black or change it to white if I can afford it, and I'd like an OEM rear spoiler and 99 spec front bumper but lots of other things to worry about before then.

 

 

 

The usual rot, sills don't seem too bad, just bent from being jacked up, but with these arches I imagine it will be a different story inside!

 

 

Always planned on redoing the interior so the condition doesn't bother me too much.

 

 

Engine is a bit of an unknown tbh. It's idling roughly, I think it's air leaks (I've already fixed one and it made it loads better) so will have to look into that, and it smokes a fair amount so in hoping that's the PCVs. I'm sure I'll run into plenty of other problems though, like the fan clutch has gone I think. Also doesn't look like it's had it's 120k service, dash shows about 130k though I think it's still in km. Some things confusing me at this early stage, I think the plug on the top with a resistor in it must be to try and bypass the knock sensor? Or egr? It's throwing a knock sensor fault anyway. And there two blanked pipes under the nose panel either side of the aftermarket filter, I might be being a bit slow but I can't think what they're for at the moment...

 

 

A long and painful road ahead I think!

Oh and I'd better get a fan shroud before it rips my arm off!

Nice project and doesnt seem to bad on the face of it, just plough through one job at a time.

 

 

The resistor mod is indeed for the Knock sensor, it may have the wrong one in there or its dead, they are pence from Maplin 1meg ohm, if you have a cone filter then the rest of the air pipes either side are redundant :thumbup1:

Couple of questions : Firstly, how long has it been sat? Secondly, it's not quite so important, but the engine spec will be slightly different, but did you know yours started life as an auto?

 

I'd start with giving every single connector a thorough clean, the engine bay doesn't look like it's seen much love and attention in some years. Connectors are the common cause of poor running. Check the timing too, your CAS looks like it's quite corroded, so might need a bit of persuasion. I'd also replace the cam belt, water pump, tensioners and aux belts if you're unsure as to when they were last changed. It's also worth doing a compression check before you do any of that though, just for peace of mind.

 

The arches will indeed need to be cut out to fix that. If your sills have collapsed due to poor jacking, make sure that the rear targa drain holes haven't been closed shut as a result. If arches are on their way out, then it's likely the sills will have started rotting from the inside. Pop off the rear 1/4 trim and look down inside to see what you can see.

Edited May 18, 201510 yr by Funkysi

Ah right thanks groover, though I think I'd like to try and get the sensor connected up properly in the long run.

 

Funkysi, no I didn't know that, how do you know? I know the autos detuned slightly compared to the TTs, but how? Will this affect anything? It's been sat on my drive for about 8 months and I don't think its done more than about 5 thousand miles over the last 3 or 4 years, but I'm just guessing by old MOTs and stuff. They sound like good starting points as well, thanks. I work away during the week though so can only work on it at the weekend.

I would turn the hose on it Chris and clean away all that mud on the inside of them wheel arches :biggrin: Its a pet hate of mine and I always keep the inner lip of the wheel arches spotless on all my cars as that starts them rusting.

Ah right thanks groover, though I think I'd like to try and get the sensor connected up properly in the long run.

 

Funkysi, no I didn't know that, how do you know? I know the autos detuned slightly compared to the TTs, but how? Will this affect anything? It's been sat on my drive for about 8 months and I don't think its done more than about 5 thousand miles over the last 3 or 4 years, but I'm just guessing by old MOTs and stuff. They sound like good starting points as well, thanks. I work away during the week though so can only work on it at the weekend.

 

They're not really detuned as such, but they use different cams and slightly smaller turbos. They just develop the power slightly differently to cope with the lack of gears that the auto box has. There's a bracket that sits about your PAS pot which is there to hold the auto transmission loom and isn't found on manual Z32s. It also has an auto balance tube. They're slightly different and have pipework in different locations.

 

If it's been sat and you have no previous history, then a compression check, followed by a connector clean followed by a full service are the very first things I would do. :)

Edited May 18, 201510 yr by Funkysi

Probably easier to note with a manual engine bay:

 

If you PM me your VIN code I will tell you what you car started life off with (manual/auto etc).

Remember some people who have genuine factory manual car replace the stock clutch pipework for a direct master to slave line and then remove all traces of the original - I did, so don't have this bracket under the bonnet anymore.

Fair point with the balance bar, although its not impossible for that to have been swapped to, however unlikely.

gary - ha yea good point, though it might be a bit late for this one!

 

Funkysi - yea I can see what you mean, and yes I agree those are my starting points!

 

AndrewG - ah thanks I'll take you up on that, but I'll have to get the VIN at the weekend

That's my old Zed !!!!! I wondered when it would reappear ...

 

I owned it from June 2008 until a year or so ago. It has different wheel on it now but everything else looks the same.

 

I bought it just after it had the manual conversion but the gearbox whined a lot so I got a replacement and Zedworld fitted it. Jeff also did the Det sensor bypass, it was working when I sold it so resister must have failed.

 

The person I sold it to said the engine was running rough and someone had told him it was an injector I think.

 

I replaced the PCV valves in 2009 but it still smoked if left idling for 10-15 minutes unless you had the aircon on auto, Jeff had checked the manifolds and there was no oil so we thought it was because the PCV valves were US spec that had a slightly higher idle speed, so I just kept the aircon on.

 

More than happy to give any history I can...

That's my old Zed !!!!! I wondered when it would reappear ...

 

I owned it from June 2008 until a year or so ago. It has different wheel on it now but everything else looks the same.

 

I bought it just after it had the manual conversion but the gearbox whined a lot so I got a replacement and Zedworld fitted it. Jeff also did the Det sensor bypass, it was working when I sold it so resister must have failed.

 

The person I sold it to said the engine was running rough and someone had told him it was an injector I think.

 

I replaced the PCV valves in 2009 but it still smoked if left idling for 10-15 minutes unless you had the aircon on auto, Jeff had checked the manifolds and there was no oil so we thought it was because the PCV valves were US spec that had a slightly higher idle speed, so I just kept the aircon on.

 

More than happy to give any history I can...

 

Yea I wondered whether any previous owners were on here! The guy I got it from only had it for a month or so I think, I don't think he even sent the log book off, think I got it straight from you in that sense. I have a feeling he hit a kerb with it or something, it had the spacesaver on it and I later found huge gashes in two of the other sidewalls. So I'll need to give the suspension a going over just in case, but it's passed an MOT at a strict local garage and they didn't pick anything up so it's probably fine. Weirdly they noticed the VIN on the V5 had been wrong since it was imported.

 

Supposedly he's done the injector(s), but he didn't seem overly competent considering the huge air leaks that you could easily hear over the engine running where he hadn't put the plenum back on properly. So I wanna pull it all and redo it and do the knock sensor at the same time.

 

Ha fair enough about the PCVs, but something's smoking a lot now, so they're definitely something to look at. Hopefully it's not the turbos on their way out.

 

Any idea what, if any, mods it has? Haven't had a good look at the exhaust yet, cat back I assume? Apart from the intake I haven't noticed anything else yet. Is the odometer still in km or has it been converted?

The guy I sold it to wanted it for a drift car and then realised there were no tracks within a 100 miles to do it on, so he sold it after a couple of weeks. As for the clocks, they have a convertor attached but I am 99% certain the mileage was not changed (before I had it) due to the MOT certs recorded mileage.

 

As for mods, the only ones I remember are air filter, wheels, exhaust, HID lights and the manual conversion, everything else was standard when sold.

 

From memory the two air pipes by the air filter were blocked off but cannot be sure.

 

There was a crease at the back of the drivers side sill that was there when I bought it and I had filled when we welded up the sill for its MOT two years ago. Floor pan has also been welded under drivers seat.

Those pipes are blocked off, not that I know what they're for originally though! Yea I'd pikced up on most of that other stuff, thanks for the info.

The guy I sold it to wanted it for a drift car and then realised there were no tracks within a 100 miles to do it on, so he sold it after a couple of weeks.

 

Hahahahahahaah!! That's friggin' hilarious! :rofl: :lol:

Good luck with your project mate...:clover:

 

Richard:cool:

Hello & welcome.

 

Unfortunately, you may have some serious issues to address.

 

Either the CAS is faulty, it is a tooth out on the belt or the mechanical timing is set to approximately 40° BTDC. Either way, check the timing and perform a compression test before going any further if you wish to possibly save yourself some major aggravation & cost.

Hello & welcome.

 

Unfortunately, you may have some serious issues to address.

 

Either the CAS is faulty, it is a tooth out on the belt or the mechanical timing is set to approximately 40° BTDC. Either way, check the timing and perform a compression test before going any further if you wish to possibly save yourself some major aggravation & cost.

 

You can tell all that from the picture?!? I was going to do and compression test to see if it was worth carrying on, and then do the timing belt as part of the 120k service as a starting point. My initial reaction is that it can't be that bad as it does run, nearly cuts out off throttle and the left exhaust does "pop" a little when idling but seems to run relatively ok on throttle (I'm not saying it doesn't have issues, it obviously does).

 

Thanks for your help though, do you mind elaborating a bit? Is there any way to test the CAS?

Oh it's actually the right exhaust I think from memory, not that that probably makes any difference at this stage...

You can tell all that from the picture?!? I was going to do and compression test to see if it was worth carrying on, and then do the timing belt as part of the 120k service as a starting point. My initial reaction is that it can't be that bad as it does run, nearly cuts out off throttle and the left exhaust does "pop" a little when idling but seems to run relatively ok on throttle (I'm not saying it doesn't have issues, it obviously does).

 

Thanks for your help though, do you mind elaborating a bit? Is there any way to test the CAS?

 

The CAS should be positioned in the middle roughly. It is fully advanced. In order for it to achieve the required 15° BTDC base timing, it either means the CAS is faulty or the belt is a tooth out. Alternatively, someone may have thought "ooh, if I move this all the way to the left, it goes really well". That would be the worst case scenario.

 

Measure the timing & report. Move the CAS to the centre and strobe it again.

 

I am 99% sure I mentioned the CAS being fully advanced the last time this car was posted on here.

The CAS should be positioned in the middle roughly. It is fully advanced. In order for it to achieve the required 15° BTDC base timing, it either means the CAS is faulty or the belt is a tooth out. Alternatively, someone may have thought "ooh, if I move this all the way to the left, it goes really well". That would be the worst case scenario.

 

Measure the timing & report. Move the CAS to the centre and strobe it again.

 

I am 99% sure I mentioned the CAS being fully advanced the last time this car was posted on here.

 

Ah right cool, will do, thanks!

I see that this is now for sale on ebay...

A lot of work needed to bring it back to mot standards Mark.

It says it has just had its MOT and passed ... :blush:

It says it has just had its MOT and passed ... :blush:

 

Wow where is Valandil to update us plus he could sell it here.