cold start

 

http://i57.tinypic.com/2ikclxl.jpg

 

 

after short drive

 

http://i59.tinypic.com/2ngtt0x.jpg

 

plus I had 34 fault code which is bad I know :sad:

 

Any help much appreciated

TPS voltage is too high in the first pic, assuming you weren't feathering the throttle slightly.

 

AAC needs to come out a long way, should be 15%, not 48%. TPS voltage still slightly high at 0.48v. Set it to 0.44v.

 

Once your car has been properly checked over (AFR & knock), it is perfectly safe to bypass the knock sensor with a 1M ohm resistor, as long as you always use 99RON or whatever the car was tuned for.

Edited March 15, 201510 yr by Noz

Cheers Noz , nope didn't touch gas pedal at all , just to add I need to change two gaskets in middle section of exhaust , car got a bit rough idle on start coz gaskets are worn , after warm up its bit better that pic is after ~5 min after cold start .I always put shell v power or bp ultimate .Im not aware of any tune on the car ecu , Ill have to visit You one day . Is it safe to drive car at all ?

 

 

Oh and Ive bypassed heater core , another thing to do :/

Once you set the TPS voltage to 0.44v, disconnect the oval plug for at least 5s and it will reset the idle switch to turn off at the appropriate voltage (~0.50v).

 

I am not a fan of BP fuels. For the best knock resistance currently available, use Tesco Momentum99 followed by V Power Nitro.

 

I can't answer if it's safe to drive the car or not I'm afraid. It's definitely not ideal until DTC34 is resolved.

Okk so I didn't drive car whole week and today Ive cleaned maf , ptu , tps and detonation sensors connectors before ive start it up , so after start I had code 54 . Ive cleared it and start car again , then I had code 55 . start it again , took it for ride .start again code 55 . car seems to be running fine :sneaky2:

Its a funny one

 

And this is what ecutalk shows

 

cold start

 

 

after drive

 

Sorry to hijack your thread Ultim8blckWidow...Where did you get your diagnostic cable and ECUTalk software from? I'm looking for a cable and some decent software for monitoring sensors and fault codes.

TPS voltage needs to be.44v

AAC looks way way out, like NOZ said, needs to be 15. If you can achieve it or somewhere close, you might have an air leak somewhere.

Still not up to temp :whistling:

Sorry to hijack your thread Ultim8blckWidow...Where did you get your diagnostic cable and ECUTalk software from? I'm looking for a cable and some decent software for monitoring sensors and fault codes.

The consult cable can be had off eBay cheap enough, and the ecutalk software is a free download, a quick Google will get you onto their webpage and be able to download it.

The consult cable can be had off eBay cheap enough, and the ecutalk software is a free download, a quick Google will get you onto their webpage and be able to download it.

 

Exactly , Ive bought it thru ebay

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ecutalk

 

Ta

I did a quick Google search for ECUtalk cables and it turns out they are closed till 15th April and their genuine cables can only be sourced through resellers such as Horsham Developments in this country. I chanced one of these eBay Link as the H-Dev lead is £64.99. I'll let you know how I get on.

Can't say I've used the one you've bought, I have one of these ones since my laptop is old enough to still have a com port, and have had no issues:

 

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=251907309028&alt=web

 

And like I say, the ecutalk software is a free download. There's other consult software available, such as conzult or datascan, but to get full functionality you have to pay for full versions. This then allows you to also look at hicas, etc.

I've got a blatz cable.

 

I'd recommend a proper ECUtalk cable though

I did a quick Google search for ECUtalk cables and it turns out they are closed till 15th April and their genuine cables can only be sourced through resellers such as Horsham Developments in this country. I chanced one of these eBay Link as the H-Dev lead is £64.99. I'll let you know how I get on.

 

The cheapy in the eBay link that you've just bought is the same as mine, it works absolutely fine with DataScan and Dr300zx. Haven't tried anything else though, but the point is it works.

I did require some extra driver software though, as what was on the disc provided wasn't enough.

If you require any assistance, let me know.

Cable arrived today...works fine with ECUtalk which I had already downloaded ready for when the lead arrived but afterwards when I tried the free version of ConZult (on CD with the cable) it came up with errors so I will have to look into that. On looking at it my AAC is really high too...how do you change it? My engine has been removed and refitted since it was last on the road so it also possibly has an air leak.

Its adjusted using the idle screw in the side, but check for leaks first before adjusting or your on a hiding to nothing.

My acc came down after Ive changed air filter lol , heres how to adjust it

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/adjust-your-idles-rpm-level.html