The BOv's in question are Apexi Twin Chamber.

 

Been thinking about my BOVs as I get stalling issues after being on Boost and dumping the clutch. Pretty sure it's cos of the BOV's.

 

O was looking back through some really old posts and found people saying the adjustment screw show be at around 5 - 5mm. The first question I have is whether its 4mm out of the end of the BOV or 4mm out of the nut that goes on the end (which I don't have).

 

Just wondering what ya's think. I have toyed with the idea of getting rid in the past but then decided to keep as I do like the sound lol.

I've got Bailey atmospheric dumps dc37 I believe, Bailey have a really good reputation in the ford world so I've got no hesitation with the qualiftty.plus because they are in common use on mancars, I was able to get hold of a pair for very little, Chinese junk.would have cost more. Think it was about £60 for the pair.

I have the ssqv bov's I'm planning on buying or making the adaptor to turn them into recirculating valves. It's not very difficult.

Not too sure if you can get an adapter for the greddy's. In years gone by they were a real favourite and pretty darn expensive too.

Right, I've took the BOV's off the car and they're minging so I shall give them a clean. Anyone know how I can move the stupid adjusting screw as they a corroded and the Allen keys just turn when I apply too much pressure.

 

Here's some pictures just for the crack

 

 

 

 

 

Starting to clean them

Unless you can ensure they are not leaking, sell or bin them.

Welli can check that once I can move the screw.

Plus, I don't think they're leaking I'm I'm getting turbo flutter so they're obviously too tight

I thought it was stalling when it comes to a stop.

 

Just because you hear turbo flutter, doesn't mean they're not leaking. Those two occurrences aren't linked.

I have been in a 300zx with dump valves adjustable ones and it was stalling no matter were they were set. I have hks ssqv and don't stall atall must be the way the ssqv works in a different way just an idea like

Is there a way to test them for leaking?

I have two already fitted to me car when i bought it.and unless i drive anymore hard than norm they dont make a noise...then of course even if a slightly spirited drive then comes a little noice.then full on hard on the gas and its full on whoooottooooshhh.but would like some chatter.

Is there a way to test them for leaking?

 

Boost leak test with them in situ.

Edited November 20, 201411 yr by Noz

Do you think I'd hear them well enough if they're leaking? I'm guessing I could fix the leak as I'd assume it'd be an O ring or something?

Edited November 20, 201411 yr by bird

I have two already fitted to me car when i bought it.and unless i drive anymore hard than norm they dont make a noise...then of course even if a slightly spirited drive then comes a little noice.then full on hard on the gas and its full on whoooottooooshhh.but would like some chatter.

 

Yeah they'd only work when you're on boost. Chatter isn't a good thing mate as its the turbos stalling. Out of interest do you have any pictures of the setting/adjusting screw? I'm curious where others are set

Yeah they'd only work when you're on boost. Chatter isn't a good thing mate as its the turbos stalling. Out of interest do you have any pictures of the setting/adjusting screw? I'm curious where others are set

 

Boost "chatter" isn't a problem with regards to turbo longevity, it's only an issue for car makers that require vehicles to be nice & quiet.

 

"Stall" in this case is Fluid Mechanics terminology when a compressor is operating to the left of the 'surge' line on the corresponding compressor map. It only becomes a problem when it's on-boost surge, and the turbo is developing more pressure than the engine itself can consume. This can damage bearings very quickly if left unchecked.

So... Because I'm thick... That made nee sense lol

A bit of flutter/chatter/pigeon when you lift off the accelerator is nothing to worry about :)

So managed to get the adjustment screws turning again and set the to approximately 4mm which used to be the recommended thing. That's 4mm past the locking nut (which is no longer on them because I damaged the nut in the past).

 

So will see if the brilliant flutter sound has gone away tomorrow night when I can test it out. That being said, I just bought some recircs as well just in case I decide to go this way but will need to see how easy it is going back to this set up first.

 

 

In regards to testing the BOVs - I have a tyre blower upper machine that you plug in to the cig lighter, do you think that should pressurise the system enough to check for any boost/Vaccuum leaks?

So I've got some recircs but not sure I want to give up on the bovs lol.

 

How easy is it to fit the recircs back in?