Hi Guys. whats been going on is when the engine is warm/hot and i start it , it starts okay and the revs go about 800 -900. but when i put it in D or R the revs suck right down and sometimes stalls. inconvenient and quite frankly downright embarrassing. When the engine is cold, the idle is at 1100-1200 so when it sucks down it doesn't stall. No i have read LOADS of articles about this and the fixes are to numerous to mention. One thing i do not want to do is to go ferreting around, looking for the answer only to make a dozen more problems from disturbing 20 year old electrics. So is this problem of mine a common issue and all i need to do is increase the idle speed?

One thing i was going to attempt was to check the volts on the tps, is this an easy check?

 

Regards

 

Rich

not an expert but sounds a bit similar to what was happening to mine the actual idle control valve itself was changed to resolve it but like you point out there's lots going on , pipes , electrics etc :)

Interesting, first i have heard of that one, where is it and is it expensive

 

rich

jefftt replaced mine will see if I can dig out the reciept

Interesting, first i have heard of that one, where is it and is it expensive

 

rich

 

just dug out the old part from my kitchen drawer :) its called an AAC Valve

just dug out the old part from my kitchen drawer :) its called an AAC Valve

 

Cheers KM, i'll do a search

 

Rich

I'll come over yours after work on Monday if you want. Drop me a message on Facebook as that is the quickest way to get hold of me.

Cyberbean, pop over , yeah. is your conzult working, if so can you bring that to. i'll check your facebook acct see if i can find you.

 

Rich

Got an update, putting into D or R is getting increasingly difficult without it stalling, impossible to keep revs up without lurching everywhere. Best resolution seems to be the AAC valve,

 

Anybody else got any just as plausible solutions? Any suggestions why the revs suck down so much when the D/R is selected? maybe that might point to a possible fix?

 

Help needed

 

Rich

Having the car on consult will help see if the timing changes when placed into gear, ie 15deg at idle in neutral and when placed into gear 20deg.

If you are not seeing this then you might have an issue with the pin44 neutral switch.

 

Does the car also try to stall from cold when put into gear?

Having the car on consult will help see if the timing changes when placed into gear, ie 15deg at idle in neutral and when placed into gear 20deg.

If you are not seeing this then you might have an issue with the pin44 neutral switch.

 

Does the car also try to stall from cold when put into gear?

 

From cold, i start it, it fires up to 1500/2000 then dies. to get it to stay alive, i apply revs start and hold at approx 1500, after 20-30 secs it will hold but if i select D/R straight away, it dies. Once i let it get a bit warmer (at the moment it doesn't take long) its okay, when i make the initial rev to go it sucks down before going up, if i use the AC trick it seems to help.

 

Rich

Idle air control vavle then, also the ficd (fast idle control device) next to it.

Cheers Graham, i'll look tomorrow

 

Rich

 

Lucky i have a spare

failing that..next in line on the idle control circuit is the fuel pump ecu

Interesting, first i have heard of that one, where is it and is it expensive

 

rich

 

cost me £65 for the part at jefftt

As part of passing the MOT i had to weld up the exhaust, couldn't do this in situ, so removed the whole exhaust. this resulted in cutting the leads from the cats into the floorpan. I was told this is not a problem, but could this be a cause of all my problems? if not the cutting maybe some wires shorting, what was this lead for?

 

rich

Nope. Those leads are just for monitoring post cat temps.

 

Sounds like your IACV as stated about.

There are a few guides around on how to remove and clean it yourself.

You will need to buy a new gasket for it if you do remove it. IIRC they are £6 from ZCentre (plus the usual astronomical delivery).

Cheers, any suggestions how best to remove the electrical connectors, without busting them that is....

 

Rich

Very carefully.....

 

 

http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-cleaning-electrical-connections-t473356.html

Nice one!!

Okay Then, Time for an update. Good news is the car is starting sweetly and behaving a lot better, there is however one last function i may need help with.

 

Right plan was to swap out the AAC valve situated just right of the battery (sitting in car as always) cant really miss it, it has a yellow connector on it, so firstly i had to remove the one from my "spare" car, i cant impress upon everyone to get one, its a lifesaver. Anyway. started to remove the AAC, one thing having a spare car does is that apart from give you the part, it allows you a "dry run" on the procedure, what to clear away, what not to break!!. After a little while i had the AAC valve in hand. so off to the proper car...

Everything went well, but i was hesitant about moving the wiring loom up/down left/right as the keen eyed amongst you will remember my issues with moving the loom caused misfires. However i proceeded with this action as you have to move the main loom around to gain access/visibility. i got to the point of just about to remove the last of the 4 bolts holding it down when something caught my eye and i saw this

 

 

Well thats not right i thought, and through my many post i have read recently on hesitation etc, this yellow connector came in for a lot of discussion. so before i remove the AAC valve, i thought id take a closer look. so i quickly popped the bolts back in and pinched them up. I will say here that getting access to this connector was bleeding difficult and did consider kidnapping a small child with small hands to work on it. I eventually removed the connector only to be confronted with our worst enemy (drum roll) yep you guessed it ..GREEN CORROSION!!!

 

 

Both in the connector and the socket.

 

 

So i decided to fix the connector first and order up a gasket (which had disintegrated from my spare car) and swap the valve if the conn fix didn't work. The yellow conn was fubar, so i cut off the end and soldered the spare one on which was unusually pristine, with the socket i very carefully attached some glasspaper to a fine long screwdriver and slowly cleaned it up. Then filled with vaseline and attached it to the valve. Now came the hardest bit of the job, there's always one in every job. Fitting that u clip, wouldn't have been so bad if it came from the batt side but it was from the other side where finger access was tight, now what did i do with that child... Easiest way was to pop it just on the connector, carefully place it down on the socket and then push it on. So all done, everything back together and then time to start it up. Before when i started, it would rev up as normal then die. This time it fired up (instantly) and held revs at 1400, great! While i tidied up i left it running, as it warmed up it gradually reduced the revs, however when it was at operating temp the revs were a bit high. Maybe something for another post. Took it for a drive and when selecting gear it didn't die either.

 

Thinking back, my misfiring which i thought was caused by moving the loom wasn't caused by some iffy connections in the loom but obviously by moving the yellow connector which with the corrosion was sparking out.

 

I would like to thank all of you who have made suggestions, given advice and helped in anyway or just given support. Also the following webpages were very useful

 

http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/iaa/iaa.html

http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-cleaning-electrical-connections-t473356.html

 

So thanks to all

 

Rich

Good to hear Richie I'll be over later to give it a plug in. I must say one of the best tools I own for working on the zed is a lovely set of Lady sized hands and a high pain threshold.

You will need to set the base idle again, if you use consult you wont need to take the connector off again and you are looking for around 15% air idle, also check the TPS 0.44v- 0.45v closed throttle.

base idle again, if you use consult you wont need to take the connector off again

 

Thats the thing i was thinking i needed to sort out... thank god Steve's coming down tonight, dont think i could handle taking that connector off again. Am i ok driving it around until i get it fixed

 

Rich

Yes not a problem, just not as lively as it might be once set up correctly