Hello all! (from France!),

 

After a year of really nice rides with the Red Z32, including track days and Spa Classic sessions

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?166760-A-Z32-driven-to-France-for-a-new-or-continued-life-into-a-nice-home!

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?170028-Z32TT-500-BHP-on-Spa-Classic-2013-25-amp-26-of-May

 

I could not resist a second Z32 when the special dedicated track version was for sale end of last year

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?173306-1991-High-Power-600bhp-Track-prepared-300zx-TT-for-Sale

 

A one day drive to UK with the trailer and the car was now in Reims!

The discovery of the car was as expected regarding the specs, but a few things were not exactly as good as it should be...

Christmas and New Year was too busy with the family to look at it, and January was just filled with professional travels and business matters!

I now took the opportunity of this week end to start having a look as the weather is better (here!).

 

I could not have the idling running on all six cylinders in UK, and restarting the engine here was the same or worst (not starting!):

Checking the Motec diag screens on a PC with the ECU connected, I have no errors.

I checked the connectors for both coils and injectors, and could not find any real fault, even if they are not "fully reliable" at the look at them.

I then had a restart and pushed the throttle to get 1500/2000 rpm... and the engine runs fine on 6 cylinders, with AFM values correct and stable.

 

I come to two possible reasons:

1. Un calibrated throttle sensor as idling value is very low. I have to recalibrate the range and look if it comes to better situation.

2. Poor jetting of injectors on idling as 700 cc/min units are probably running badly with very short opening times.

 

I cannot see any problem on PTU (phase 2) or synch, as it woul not run correctly at higher RPM than idling.

The petrol in the tank is probably very old, so I should change it for new.

The petrol filter has to be checked for plugging

The pressure regulator will require some pressure check to avoid any problem on this side

 

Would you consider above points as the right points to be checked?

Do you see any other point that could give those faults?

 

Comparing the steering assistance between the red one and this one, turning the wheels is initiating some noise as soon as turned (like it woul do on the end of the turn).

What could be the reason for this?

 

Thanks!

Most of the issues to go for french MOT are now cleared!

 

Change of spark plugs: Engine starts and idles fine

Rewiring of the starter push button: No need of the extra wire to the battery

Made an oil change with Opie special fast road quality with additives

Check on brakes: Ap racing 4 pistons on the front will soon need new pads but enough meat left

Check on wheels: Tires are nearly gone... and found a bolt missing

Could not screw a standard bolt for Z32: The screws are 16 x 1.5! And with radius conical shape! (Honda?)

Found a correct bolt to secure the missing one

As the wheels were up on front: Purged the steering circuit turning the wheels end to end and added some oil

Had a nice protection for the Motec Ecu and wiring: Relocated the wood panel and carpet

The AFR gauge was loose: Packed with foam for protection and fixed it

Took all stuff out of the car for a nice clean

Placed a spare wheel with tire in the boot and checked for tools

Put 20 liters of new unleaded 98 in the nearly empty tank

In other words.... ready for a first drive tomorrow hoping it will be as dry as possible!!

 

I still have quite a lot to discover and how to use some accessories, but let's see how it runs first...

Yes, I will start slowly and keep an eye on temperatures, boost, AFR, etc...

More news tomorrow evening with the result!

Sounds good Hubert and good luck on your run tomorrow. :thumbup1:

By the way, I forgot two more issues above!

 

The front bumper has been readjusted with the front wing. It was badly protruding on the wheel arch. I hope that it stays as readjusted!

Last but very important issue: The main blue "fuse", made of one big insulated wire, was a home made assembly with three wires!

I had a set bought from JefTT (Thanks), and he told me that this fuse has to be the correct rate, as if higher rated, the complete wiring could take fire having no correct protection!

Interesting discovery, so if you never had a look, please check it on your car.

Well, this morning 8h30, the outside temperature was -4°C with a severe frost on roof... but also on the road with the rain that we had yesterday...

I took the car out at 10h30 with a bright sunshine, and started the drive at 11h00, looking for open roads sections under the sun!

 

After a nice warm up getting the engine temperature right in the middle of the gauge and stable, I sat in the cobra seat, got the harness adjusted and left home on a smooth touch of the gas pedal.

The first acceleration on the main road was an instand drift from the rear wheels! OK, parameters are getting set...

Driving in direction of the old Reims circuit, with a very smooth touch with the right foot, and staying 2500/3000 rpm, the driving was fine.

Temperature is stable, AFR values between 13:1 and 14:1, total cut on throttle closure, and brakes active and staying straight.

 

On the second pass along the stands of the circuit, I had a progressive push in 3rd and 4th gears... up to 6500 rpm. Boost pressure reaching one bar... it is just amazing!

All parameters stayed nominal, and I had to stop before taking off!! This car has to be tested in germany or on track.

 

I had a drive for about 85 miles, staying very gentle on the gas pedal (as you would...), and this was pure pleasure.

Very different from the red one, as it is more brutal.

As the target was a caged model for track use, I feel quite satisfied with this first test ride.

A lot to learn about the way to use it, no doubt!

Well, this morning 8h30, the outside temperature was -4°C with a severe frost on roof... but also on the road with the rain that we had yesterday...

I took the car out at 10h30 with a bright sunshine, and started the drive at 11h00, looking for open roads sections under the sun!

 

After a nice warm up getting the engine temperature right in the middle of the gauge and stable, I sat in the cobra seat, got the harness adjusted and left home on a smooth touch of the gas pedal.

The first acceleration on the main road was an instand drift from the rear wheels! OK, parameters are getting set...

Driving in direction of the old Reims circuit, with a very smooth touch with the right foot, and staying 2500/3000 rpm, the driving was fine.

Temperature is stable, AFR values between 13:1 and 14:1, total cut on throttle closure, and brakes active and staying straight.

 

On the second pass along the stands of the circuit, I had a progressive push in 3rd and 4th gears... up to 6500 rpm. Boost pressure reaching one bar... it is just amazing!

All parameters stayed nominal, and I had to stop before taking off!! This car has to be tested in germany or on track.

 

I had a drive for about 85 miles, staying very gentle on the gas pedal (as you would...), and this was pure pleasure.

Very different from the red one, as it is more brutal.

As the target was a caged model for track use, I feel quite satisfied with this first test ride.

A lot to learn about the way to use it, no doubt!

 

Sounds like you've had a great day mate :thumbup1:

I had indeed!!

 

A few seconds of turbo action...

I had indeed!!

 

A few seconds of turbo action...

 

Sounds sweet :thumbup1: looking forward to some more action from this bad boy Hubert.

Very nice to see her running on the old Reims-Gueux Race Circuit! Onwards and upwards Hubert!

You're driving on the wrong side of the road. Lucky you didn't have an accident! :p

Ok Guys!

 

I have to thank you all for the help solving the issues since the car is now running and running fine.

The restart on the road on Sunday was a discovery for me, as the spider in its cage is really something different.

I learned rapidly that opening the throttle on this one is something you have to study before doing!It is a monster...

 

The appointment for the french MOT eaquivalent was taken this afternoon.

I must admit that arriving at the place started with a bunch of questions starting from "what is this?"

All the tests were fullfilled successfully, and the only remark I have on the report is "corrosion visible under the car"

I knew it from my first look under, but nothing dramatic, as another visit is not required with what has been checked.

So, I have the MOT fullfilled, and the next step will be registration for a French plate number, getting the "carte grise" equivalent to your V5.

 

I was happy on the way back, and with the experience from Sunday, I had another fun drive:

First and second gears cannot be pushed as the wheels are just sliding immediately. I had a push on third gear, and the slide was there again from 5500 rpm... (and about 1 bar boost)

I moved to fourth gear, and reaching very unreasonnable speed... the slide was there again at 6200 rpm!

Tires definitely need a change, and I will probably go for semi-slicks to get better efficiency...

But, believe me, this car is really on the top side of what a 300ZXTT can be!

 

So, I'll still have a lot to learn...and it will take some time before I can evaluate the pedal push on bends.

 

I hope I can take it to Spa Classic mid May... and maybe meet some of you guys!

Again, thanks for the help for this restart, and I will keep you posted on the next steps to have it perfect. :clap::thumbup:

excellent progress. What tires do you have on now, and how old? You should be able to hold 3rd gear easily, even 2nd with the right tires and suspension setup

The actual tires on the car are:

Front: Goodyear Excellence 225x 40x 18

Rear: Conti sport Contact2 265x 35x 18

I have no idea how old they are, but being used 5 times over the last 5 years, I do not expect them to stay long on the car.

Of course, the temperatures were much down both on Sunday (5°C with frost untill two hours before the drive, so a tarmac even colder!) and yesterday (maybe 7/8°C).

I did not had a warming session to get the tires at the right temperature...

First priority is to have new shoes, and those will probably go for Federal 595 RS-R both on the front and the rear.

 

I know that front suspension are Tokikos, and I have to check the rear ones. No coilovers, but looks like the front is having adjustment screw.

 

One question regarding the weight on front/rear wheels: The french MOT is measuring the weight on front and rear wheels, and the values are:

Front 825kg total on both wheels

Rear 775kg total on both wheels

This is with approx half tank, all fluids in, and the control driver sitting in the car (80Kg)

Are those values close to original?

Hubert, from the "300ZX Enthusiast's Companion" book the weight distribution for a 2+2 turbo manual is

53:47 F/R with a kerb weight of 3,495lb. Your figures are 1600kg which is 3,527lb, so not that different.

good, new tires and warmer weather and it should grip much better then :)

 

Weight at 1600 with fluids and driver is lighter than standard, but far from lightweight! Did you weigh the red one for comparison?

 

fyi - http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?137277-the-weight-question

Sounds like you have a monster of a Z there Hubert. Take care on the track till you get well used to it and enjoy mate.

good, new tires and warmer weather and it should grip much better then :)

 

Weight at 1600 with fluids and driver is lighter than standard, but far from lightweight! Did you weigh the red one for comparison?

 

fyi - http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?137277-the-weight-question

 

The red one is 1650 kg = 3,637 lb with 855 kg on the front and 795 kg on the back

Very similar ratio weight front/back, and 50 kg more.

The new Federal RS-R tires are now on the car. This should allow a better test for adherence on boost.

I wanted to change the front break pads as they come to a few millimeters left: The calipers are AP Racing CP 5200 with 28 mm disks.

The EBC Blue Stuff pads ref DP5002NDX are 18 mm thick and this is too thick considering the 16.75 mm given by AP Racing for the CP3215D50 pads.

Even if peeling the black sheet in contact with the pistons, it is too tight to enter in the gap!

 

Anyone has adresses for AP Racing pads supply?

I look for CP3215D50 16.75 mm thickness max for track/fast road use. This could be Mintex or Ferrodo equivalent, providing they are 16.75 mm maximum thickness.

 

Thanks for your help!

Just to point out the "done list":

New tires Federal RS-R fitted front and rear

Brake pads front on AP Racing calipers changed (needed to find the appropriate ones for the 28 mm thick disc as caliper is different with 33 mm disk and pads also...) I used Mintex track compound.

Brake pads rear changed on rear calipers also (standard Z32 calipers) I changed for TRW fast road ones.

Bolts for wheels changed as there was a strange mix, and even one bolt missing.

Exhaust silent blocks changed as they were cracked. The cobra SS lines are now tight and safe.

Relay installed to have the AFR gauge activated only with engine ON. The gauge was permanent active, and making the battery flat just staying in the garage!

Checked the Sigma radio locking system, and ordered spare batteries to be safe with only one command keyless sytem. The locks on doors are supressed...

So, now ready for a better test run soon!

 

One more question about the alarm system:

It looks like the alarm (Sigma M Series with remote Key control) is eating quite significantly on the battery... Is this normal?

I have doors leds blinking all the time, wether it is locked or not.

I can see this power eating from my battery small charger, as it stays on "feed" when car is staying in the garage.

My fear is to have the battery low too kwickly just parking away from home!

Anyone has experience on this?

What else could be 'ON" when the car is parked?

Your in France fella,as long as its not Paris i wouldnt lock it anyhow.

That's an optimistic view! What was true 20 years ago has somehow changed with generations...

But this is not an indication on what the alarm is eating... locked or not by the way...

I cannot lock with keys, as the locks on doors are supressed!

The matter regarding battery getting flat when parked is not yet solved, but I suspect the wiring of the Motec ecu to be incorrect.

I cannot activate data log as the Motec ecu is not detecting the engine stop...Something is wrong there...

 

On the other hand, I have cleaned the broken connector on the temperature sensor used by the Motec management.

It was coming loose, and connecting the PC to the Motec Ecu, I had a fault on the water sensor.

I have fixed it so stay in place. No error: Solved!

I suspect this to be linked to the bad starting and idling before I changed the fouled sparks:

The water temperature sensor is a must for injection correction idling with spark advance loop.

 

I had a run this morning, and the rocket is now coming to the true way it should push! :-)!