we hopefully not FUBAR

 

last night i pulled onto my road and went to park and the engine cut out.... started it then it did it again.... got it start then stay started but it wouldn't idle kept dropping to sub 500 rpm, then stalled again, with the 2 afm's disconnected it held an idle,

 

i have ecu faults of temp sensor (past fault and fitted a new sensor last week) and afm (but only once id disconnected them)

 

once started it ran ok up the road just once stopped it stalled again,

 

 

 

went back out this morning, started first turn of the key, still really rough idle, stank of fuel, now wont rev, hesitating coughing splutting the works....

 

disconected the afms again nothing

disconected the yellow acc plug no difference.

 

about a week ago, it did get very wet in a puddle, but has ran ok since being dried out.

 

any suggestions?

Maybe some crap has dried on the wire in the maf? Just guessing here..

itll frob be crap on the maff. ive still not finished of the little jobs and stuff that i need to do ubderneath so i know i shouldnt but im running around without the bottom splasgaurds on at the moment and every time its really damp start first thing my run s not good, tell a coplule miles up the road tell cars warmed up and all that sit has dried of the maff water and the like. there is a filter on ,but ive got to move that one and waiting on to contact noel noz for a 150 maff.stop unplugging everything your cause yourself even more pfoblems although temptem as it is. or take your maff of and just clean that carfully.

thanks, i have a custom intake fed by a selin dual maf computer my filters are litterally the other side of the splash guards, and have had alot of rain.

 

will have to take my bumper off to get to them but will try cleaning both filters and mafs, better go borrow consult from work to get rid of the error codes too.

If it's cutting out when hot; and then starting and running for a while when it cools down, then it's possibly your PTU. That can also cause a rough idle when back up and running - as a duff connection within the unit can prevent a single cylinder firing (which could also give a petrol smell).

 

Happened to me a few weeks ago. Initially the car stalled as I parked it in the garage; but restarted immediately and in I drove. A week later, I took it out and after 20 minutes, it cut out and failed to start once up to temp. It later started once cool, but ran as rough as arseholes; chugging, smokey and smelling of unburned fuel. It would not rev smoothly and then it cut out once more when up to temp.

 

One replacement PTU (series 2 I might add) later, and it's perfect once more!! The puddle issue may just be coincidence - water should eventually just evaporate with the heat of the engine.... Good luck mate; I hope it is something simple like that.

 

Richard:cool:

thanks, my na's a '95 already has a s2 ptu, but that sounds exactly like what my zeds doing. not sure i have a sppare but will get rumaging in my spares boxes.

MAF or CAS Mine's a '95 and I 've had those problems

If it is a maf they can get dry joints too. Worth a resolder

Wet MAF.

On the Scarborough run in the summer it was tossin down, and I was following Stevie and he was throwing up a hellish amount of spray. My splash guard had detached itself, and the filter and MAF got soaked.

Caused very lumpy idle, and intermittent hesitation when it was on the move. Took 20 minutes of driving on dry roads for it to clear up.

thanks, my na's a '95 already has a s2 ptu, but that sounds exactly like what my zeds doing. not sure i have a sppare but will get rumaging in my spares boxes.

 

Does it mate? Unless you know it's been upgraded, it might not be!! See Andrew's post here....

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?173906-I-m-not-used-to-this&p=1784918&viewfull=1#post1784918

 

Richard:wink:

Does it mate? Unless you know it's been upgraded, it might not be!! See Andrew's post here....

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?173906-I-m-not-used-to-this&p=1784918&viewfull=1#post1784918

 

Richard:wink:

It isnt an upgrade ... they came with one on:yes: Different wiring loom made to accept it... and the later style CAS.... and later style injector connectors.:biggrin:

Take the mafs off and stick then in the warm and dry. Remove your battery and then put it back in the morning, without the mafs it it idles and revs to 3k without them, refit them and try again. If it then runs crap they are likely duff, I may be worth bypassing the selin and using one then the other to see if ones a winner.

Mafs do not like the wet.

Been out with the zed in the rain today, borrowed consult from work

 

Started rough, but did clear and idle for a short time till it got warm and it stalled the refused to start again...

 

Ran tests with consult its missing on all 6 cylinders

 

Mafs and filters were wet and are drying now,

 

Consult said it was running rich on start up whilst cold,

 

Not sure where to go now

What are the symptoms of timing jumping? Just ask because It had a new belt, pulleys and Tensioner about a month ago,

 

Don't think it can be as it runs with mafs disconnected even when warm

I still recon your mafs are ducked

Found the fault, one of the mafs was giving no Voltage and the selin was getting confused, and giving strange signals to consult, bodged a single intake on and now it runs fine

 

Was a pain to find as had to take the bumper off to get the intake pipes back on to a single intake then tried each one, Consult flagged the faulty one as soon as it was connected

 

 

Thanks for help everyone

Found the fault, one of the mafs was giving no Voltage and the selin was getting confused, and giving strange signals to consult, bodged a single intake on and now it runs fine

 

Was a pain to find as had to take the bumper off to get the intake pipes back on to a single intake then tried each one, Consult flagged the faulty one as soon as it was connected

 

 

Thanks for help everyone

 

 

Glad you sort of got it sorted mate, happy days :)

Glad you sort of got it sorted mate, happy days :)

 

Ditto.....

 

Richard:thumbup:

happy days dude

Cough cough

thanks, i have a custom intake fed by a selin dual maf computer my filters are litterally the other side of the splash guards, and have had alot of rain.

Are you running a separate/divorced intake and MAF for each side of the plenum then??

Or does it still go in to a single shared pipe for some of the intake??

It's my design, but it's similar to the z1 ram intake

 

I have injen hard pipes, and the maf and filter cones straight off the hard pipe each side, putting a filter where the smic would be on a tt.

 

Had it left over from one of my tt's, noticed an increase in throttle response

 

My na had 236rwhp on a std map and a japspeed exhaust, with a flat power curve from 3k to redline

It's my design, but it's similar to the z1 ram intake

 

I have injen hard pipes, and the maf and filter cones straight off the hard pipe each side, putting a filter where the smic would be on a tt.

 

Had it left over from one of my tt's, noticed an increase in throttle response

 

My na had 236rwhp on a std map and a japspeed exhaust, with a flat power curve from 3k to redline

kerching!!!

another owner with a similar idea to me.

No MAFs of course with my Emerald.

I havent done mine... yet but I have all the pipework bought. i am planning on going thru to the front past the radiator and turning 90 degrees before the filter.

I have some Z1 larger throttle bodies to fit also.

Your 236 hp will be at the fly not the wheels BTW.

Stock NA new engine gets 225.

Sorry force of habit my old ones were autos. I ment bhp.

 

Will be interested to see how the z1 throttle bodies help, as I was thinking of doing that soon too