ok my car is getting detonation but why . just been out in it tonite safty boost kicked in again so pulled over and restarted it again boost back up to normal .so drove home just at normal speed limit normal rpm and had the window down could here the enginge detting even driving normal. I thought det was only when boost was high .so car is running 14psi chip from z centre air box removed and cat back system and uprated plugs think there heat range 7 so what going on help please

more likely to be a blueprint one. he would just get it from his normal part suppliers, doubt he would go to Nissan imo

 

Jeff Always uses genuine Nissan ones..... read the tech threads

 

I've had two.....

Jeff Always uses genuine Nissan ones..... read the tech threads

 

I've had two.....

 

dont think he had it done at jeff's?

Ask Jeff about it !

Just to clarify the cambelt fittment, as is Always the case a Genuine Nissan Cambelt was used.

A full ConZult set up was done that sorted some items that needed adjusting and the timing was set accordingly correct. I received a pm from Dan saying the engine was running very well as i expected, the current issue could be caused by either a pipe from a boost jet coming off or maybe an actuator causing over boost...

Jeff TT

Edited December 1, 201312 yr by JeffTT

the car was running well yes and still is timing was looked at today and can conferm the timing is set correct. yes the issue is else were

a problem today was found and there was a boost leak pretty bad one but this wouldn't cause pinking/knock ?

I think it would cause knock... too much air against fuel, thus being lean and causing det.

 

Alz.

a problem today was found and there was a boost leak pretty bad one but this wouldn't cause pinking/knock ?

 

Did day at the beginning. If it's leaking in or out after the maf which is well all of it, you will effect the mix. If the mix is out you can either run lean and fuel foul causing preingnition of the deposits or burn lean.

think about it if it was leaking under boost after the maf then the lost meterd air would result in a rich mix would it not? not lean

Only if it was post turbo aswel. If it was preturbo that pipework is still under vacuum not boost. Sort out the boost leaks, even if they are THE problem they're still not helping.

boost leak was coming from the manual boost controller were you wind it on to set the boost was piss ing out of there

That would be post turbo. Still not going to help. The cold weather should make your car less like to dett not more, something isn't right. Iirc and you can probably find it, Noel did a write up on generic chips finding most were leaner than preferable in the mid range,

well we fixed the boost leak so it it does not go into safety boost again then it must have been that causing it wiil have to see how it goes the first time it went into safty boost it back fire first so mybe the rich mix as causing a small back fire and the det sensor was picking it up its very possible

Iirc if your running rich the unburnt fuel recycled through the combustion cycle can preingnite, causing dett. Glad it's sorted though, boost leaks are a royal pita.

that's sounds about rite then lets hope that's the last of it will have to just drive it a few times and see am fitting a after market det meter next week now just as a back up like a warning

Must add a bit in here, whilst the forum is at its best at helping with tech issues, sometimes the basis of this problem, cause and solution have been missed and even with the eventual issue cause been identified the point is still lost.

 

So the symptoms was detonation then loss of power, the issue as it turned out was a leaking manual boost valve, the leak at this valve was allowing the actuator/ wastegat on that turbo to stay closed longer, this was causing over boost, and detonation would arise from this.

 

The det sensor was doing its job, the engine, turbo`s, ecu, all were working but the leak was causing over boost, nothing directly to do with mixture issues or the chip/ ecu or timing, simply over boost.

 

Hope that makes it make more sense what was going on, and is what I suggested earlier in the thread.

 

Jeff TT

Danny going on from Jeffs post above the next thing you need to be checking is making sure you have not got bleed tips in your actuator lines before you fitted the manual boost controller...check at the top with a thin piece of wire as they may be pushed right in out of sight.That preload hex headed bolt is not giving that spring a lot of restistence to be giving you 14psi mate,should be into the valve body at least another 5-8mm against the spring for that boost.

if there was bleed tips the car would have been boosting higher than stock and it wasn't. I fitted the boost gauge to see what the boost level was before I fitted the manual boost controller and turned it up 14psi

Must add a bit in here, whilst the forum is at its best at helping with tech issues, sometimes the basis of this problem, cause and solution have been missed and even with the eventual issue cause been identified the point is still lost.

 

So the symptoms was detonation then loss of power, the issue as it turned out was a leaking manual boost valve, the leak at this valve was allowing the actuator/ wastegat on that turbo to stay closed longer, this was causing over boost, and detonation would arise from this.

 

The det sensor was doing its job, the engine, turbo`s, ecu, all were working but the leak was causing over boost, nothing directly to do with mixture issues or the chip/ ecu or timing, simply over boost.

 

Hope that makes it make more sense what was going on, and is what I suggested earlier in the thread.

 

Jeff TT

 

yes it now makes sence when you put it like that

Danny going on from Jeffs post above the next thing you need to be checking is making sure you have not got bleed tips in your actuator lines before you fitted the manual boost controller...check at the top with a thin piece of wire as they may be pushed right in out of sight.That preload hex headed bolt is not giving that spring a lot of restistence to be giving you 14psi mate,should be into the valve body at least another 5-8mm against the spring for that boost.

 

I see what your saying now yes. but wouldn't the car have been boosting higher if the tips were in it was at stock boost level before I turned it up

I see what your saying now yes. but wouldn't the car have been boosting higher if the tips were in it was at stock boost level before I turned it up

 

i remember you telling me when i 1st seen the car that the boost gauge (OEM) was hard over on boost....yours is a UK so that would be 12-14 psi mate.

i remember you telling me when i 1st seen the car that the boost gauge (OEM) was hard over on boost....yours is a UK so that would be 12-14 psi mate.

 

when I got the car is was 9 psi when I fitted the after market gauge I then fitted the chip and manual boost controller and turned it up to 14pis on the after market gauge

 

I didn't mean hard as in off the scale on the oem what ever that red. the after market gauge I fitted red 9 psi

when I got the car is was 9 psi when I fitted the after market gauge I then fitted the chip and manual boost controller and turned it up to 14pis on the after market gauge

 

I didn't mean hard as in off the scale on the oem what ever that red. the after market gauge I fitted red 9 psi

 

ahh gotcha mate....make allowence for my age drenched brain please:wacko:

ahh gotcha mate....make allowence for my age drenched brain please:wacko:

 

its ok you need to get to the bottom of it witch is good

How do you know when a zed is running safety boost?