Hi all, my TT was converted to a NA rear diff, therefore the Hicas was removed, To stop the Hicas warning light being on constantly i unplugged the small connector block onto the power steering ECU( next to the main ECU). Now my cruise control wont work, im told that i only really need to snip one of the two wires on the connector block and then plug it back in, anybody know which one i need to cut ??

Can you not just remove the bulb?

No , it still acts as a low fluid level light.

Unplug the grey or shitty-red connector for the HICAS modulator. Plug in the PAS connect (can't think of which one you mean). If you need me to take a photo, let me know.

Si, pictures would be very much appreciated , thanks

In fact specifically i have disconnected the Small connector from the PAS ECU.

Until I do my full HICAS delete, I've unplugged these two. Now, I would rather have it all working, it's the ONLY thing in my car that doesn't and I'm anal about stuff like that, but it's had an error that I just can't rectumify, so I am doing a full delete when I have some spare time as I have the NA PAS pot and PAS pump + hicas lockout bar etc.

 

Anyway, these two I've unplugged and my CC works perfectly. I know the lower one is the level light which is the one you pulled didn't you? I took the bulb out too, but my CC works fine. I'm running a UK CC ECU and a series 4 CC column paddle, but it worked fine with the old JDM ECU/buttons.

 

Sorry to thread jump, but is there any reason your not going down the na subframe route?

Sorry to thread jump, but is there any reason your not going down the na subframe route?

 

You talking to me or the other guy?

 

I don't want the ratios the NA diff has and a TT diff won't fit an NA subframe. I do quite a lot of long distance and continental cruise in my Z and don't want another 500rpm on top when I am doing motorway speeds. A keeps noise down and (less importantly, fuel consumption).

Guess you're talking to the other guy - sorry. He must have taken the mech out of the NA diff and fitted to a TT diff. Yeah, strange that you're not using the NA subframe.

You talking to me or the other guy?

 

I don't want the ratios the NA diff has and a TT diff won't fit an NA subframe. I do quite a lot of long distance and continental cruise in my Z and don't want another 500rpm on top when I am doing motorway speeds. A keeps noise down and (less importantly, fuel consumption).

 

You, as you were talking about lock up kits. I have an na subframe but I'm in two minds whether to fit it or not? I like the sound of loading a bit top end to gain acceleration, but am not sure how the car will handle after

In principle, I'd rather have one, but I don't want the NA diff. Having said that, I haven't seen an NA modified diff with the TT mech inside it like Sayers' one. Be interesting to know a little more.

Hi all, my TT was converted to a NA rear diff, therefore the Hicas was removed, To stop the Hicas warning light being on constantly i unplugged the small connector block onto the power steering ECU( next to the main ECU). Now my cruise control wont work, im told that i only really need to snip one of the two wires on the connector block and then plug it back in, anybody know which one i need to cut ??

 

Think he has the na setup looking at opening post

Yeah, there was no mention of an NA subframe, maybe he changed the lot. I was going to say, I hadn't heard of a TT converted NA Diff (mech).

sorry chaps , the whole sub frame has been changed, apologies for not being clearer, Si thankyou for the pics , all of that gubbins has been removed from my car .