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after manual conversion i want to blow my zed :( a couple things ... after an hour driving gearbox gets so hot it`s impossible to hold gear knob and you need to open windows cos it gets so hot... Zed is trying to stall in first and second gear ... and you need to accelerate realy hard ... in first second and third gear when you accelerate and let your foot of the accelerator pedal gear selector is trying to jump to neutral :( .... any ideas what went wrong ?

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Yes we put the correct oil in it.

 

GL4 75 - 90

 

I didn't have the same issue when the box was in my car, the only thing i can think of is that manual spigot bearing didn't go in to well, and we couldn't get the rest of it back out.

 

Never experienced a gearbox heating to the point you cant touch the gear-knob, ive had it where the gearknob warms up though.

Edited by vodkashots

after manual conversion i want to blow my zed :( a couple things ... after an hour driving gearbox gets so hot it`s impossible to hold gear knob and you need to open windows cos it gets so hot... Zed is trying to stall in first and second gear ... and you need to accelerate realy hard ... in first second and third gear when you accelerate and let your foot of the accelerator pedal gear selector is trying to jump to neutral :( .... any ideas what went wrong ?

 

I doubt it has but would be a good idea to check the filler cap and drain cap as well as that looped pipe for the oil cooler thats been by past.

 

Also did you put the rubber boot back on under the gear stick gator or your going to have all the heat from the engine / exhaust filtering into the cabin. as you forgot to put that on when putting the interior back together.

any more ideas before i set my car on fire ?

 

How did you get on with checking the oil drain plugs? we are not sure what you have done so far, did you put that rubber boot on?

 

Anyway probable causes.

 

- Dust boot not installed correctly (thats the boot you missed out in the cabin that goes over the gearknob)

- Low oil / no oil

- Wrongly adjusted clutch so its slipping all the time and heating the gearbox up (which it could be if you are struggling to get the car moving) so night be worth checking it (http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-would-i-adjust-my-clutch-pedal-t401880.html) (Sounds like it could be this as we never got a chance to adjust it correctly)

Edited by vodkashots

a few things will cause what you have

 

pressure ...., is the clutch dissengaging corrcetly, is the gearbox lined up correctly with the prop shaft, in neutral can you rotate the prop shaft by hand, is the Diff oil full

 

Friction is there anything "extra" in the gearbox making it work harder , did you do any mods to it before or after fitting it..is the oil too thick, try a lighter gearbox oil.

 

lubrication ..is the oil the right weight and level,

 

you say the car seems like it is stalling and you have to rev it hard to get away .....sounds like the gearbox is partialy siezed or the diff is seizing up

 

once you have illiminated the above you should have your answer.

a few things will cause what you have

 

 

pressure ...., is the clutch dissengaging corrcetly, is the gearbox lined up correctly with the prop shaft, in neutral can you rotate the prop shaft by hand, is the Diff oil full

 

Friction is there anything "extra" in the gearbox making it work harder , did you do any mods to it before or after fitting it..is the oil too thick, try a lighter gearbox oil.

 

lubrication ..is the oil the right weight and level,

 

you say the car seems like it is stalling and you have to rev it hard to get away .....sounds like the gearbox is partialy siezed or the diff is seizing up

 

once you have illiminated the above you should have your answer.

 

Not sure on the clutch disengaging, but if its constantly slipping, this would give him the symptoms he describes, (high revs to pull away, heating up while driving)

 

You can rotate the gearbox and diff by hand, we had to, to get the prop-shaft bolts as we undid it in the center, it rotated smoothly and easily.

 

The gearbox oil is the same stuff ive always used, which is 75W 90 GL-4, as specified by the manufacturer. (this is the stuff http://www.autosessive.com/9/section.aspx/270/Comma_Gear_Oil_SX75W90_GL4_1L) and never had a issue before using it.

 

Nothing "extra" its a bog standard flywheel, bog standard friction disk (although brand spanking new out the wrapper) and bog standard OEM pressure plate.

 

Not sure what you mean by "mods", the gearbox came off my blue zed and was working perfectly before the car was parked up, it sat with gearbox oil in it for around 6 months, before being removed from the car around 3 weeks ago and emptied. (cant see how a gearbox is going to suffer in 3 weeks with no oil in, as most of the parts will still have a layer on them)

 

Not sure on his diff, he managed to stall a AUTO in my carpark before we even got the car in the air, so not sure what that's about. could be the diff, but cant see it being the gearbox, unless either the drain plug has come undone some how, the filler plug has come undone some how, or the silicone tube has come away that by passes the gearbox cooler.

Edited by vodkashots

one thing I will say is when I First did mine it drove like a bag of shit, I thought id ruined the car, what I didn't realise though is it had severly highlighted other issues id previously had, boost leaks or example. Sounds like you need to go over a few things with it. Weird its getting so hot that doesn't sound right at all.

  • Author

it`s amazing how my zed is self healing :) it`s geting better :) the only thing i need to sort out is vibration on prop shaft. do i rotate it 90 degrees ?

it`s amazing how my zed is self healing :) it`s geting better :) the only thing i need to sort out is vibration on prop shaft. do i rotate it 90 degrees ?

 

Did you use the full manual prop or half and half, if the later good chance you will need to get it balanced, given the troubles you have reported, some of which sound already evident before the conversion ( stalling) with no disrespect to all involved but DIY / mates installation / work has its risks, if you had the work done at a garage you would have warranty, of course the trade off either way is usually cost, just an observation no recrimination suggested.

 

Jeff TT

Did you use the full manual prop or half and half, if the later good chance you will need to get it balanced, given the troubles you have reported, some of which sound already evident before the conversion ( stalling) with no disrespect to all involved but DIY / mates installation / work has its risks, if you had the work done at a garage you would have warranty, of course the trade off either way is usually cost, just an observation no recrimination suggested.

 

Jeff TT

 

Half and half matey, how i received it, never did get the rear of the manual prop.

Half and half matey, how i received it, never did get the rear of the manual prop.

 

Yes have tried this in now dim and very distant past and was lucky most times, having said that it was no luck but most likely as the donor parts were 10 years younger then, we always fit the one piece as part of a conversion cost now, guaranteed no vibration.

 

Jeff TT

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