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I'm not entirely sure what's gone on here, because apart from a recent battery change and a 'collapsing/failed trolly jack' incident which caused the zed to take a bit of a knock when it dropped, I can't see any reason why this noise would occur.

 

The oil level and oil pressure is good, oil passing through engine ok (I recently plumbed in a new oil cooler) but to eliminate that as a potential cause I removed the cooler from the equation and connected the oil pipes with a short length of hose (no difference).

 

I did find a small hose that had become disconnected on the passenger side of the plenum (traced the hissing and re-attached it) which apart from stopping the hissing sound, made no difference

 

 

MAF has been removed and cleaned (tested with and without) clearly the MAF is not the issue

 

I've checked the plugs/connections and given each a quick spray but that's made no difference

 

No air leaks/boost leaks that I can find (after market boost gauge reads fine)

 

 

It's got me stumped???

 

 

 

Excuse the upside down camera phone work.....but do you see what I mean about the cougar sound?

 

 

th_VID-20130429-00106_zps7fcde4a3.jpg

Featured Replies

  • Author

and of course after a minute or so of it just catching itself before cutting out, eventually it does just cut out....

That sounds odd, familiar but odd. Similar sort of noise mine used to make when the fan shroud dropped, and the viscous would rub. I think you've caused an air leak by disturbing something boost leak test first and foremost, I recon.

Sounds recirc/BOV related to me, but hard to tell.

  • Author
Sounds recirc/BOV related to me, but hard to tell.

 

The bov's haven't been touched or adjusted since it ran a few weeks back but I'll check them both tomorrow just to make sure

  • Author

Bov's and connection have been checked, all to no evail?

 

The ECU fault code reads '55' (5 long/5 short flashes) which is normal I believe. I'm wondering if it might be a fuel issue, either filte, FPR or pump as it now won't even catch/tick over. It started earlier this morning but now won't even start?

fuel pump failing? is there any pressure in the fuel lines? sounds a bit rattily as well but that could be the video, you haven't knocked an actuator arm off have you?

sounds/looks like Air leak/UN-metered air .. check the bungs on the intake pipes where the original recirc was fitted

all so i could hear your VTC pulleys rattling

 

all so check the vac lines that run to the boost hard pipes beside the rad .. and the 3 little ones between the pipes on the right side

these all supply the Bov/carbon canister ..

Edited by MarkDerby

  • Author

Fuel pump and flow is fine mate. I've just changed the FPR with another known good one and still it won't start?

 

All vacuum hoses have now been double checked and all good, VTC connector/s (white sleeved cable I believe) had been tested by disconnecting and re-connecting but made no difference

 

The engine itself is a good engine and I just can't see what's been knocked out of place when it dropped.

 

I've lost interest now!!!

  • Author

The jack ended up on it's side (damaged the bottom of the skirt) but was just behind rear passenger wheel arch. I'm gonna' get it back up and see if I missed any damage last time I checked

 

They never had problems like this in the old days when they rode around on horses.....that's progress for you :biggrin:

sounds/looks like Air leak/UN-metered air .. check the bungs on the intake pipes where the original recirc was fitted

all so i could hear your VTC pulleys rattling.

 

Have to agree, well worth you making a quick boost leak tester, with a tire valve in a jar lid or something that fits into the intake where the MAF joins, bung it in, tighten the jubilee clip jobby, pump some air in and listen for leaks, think there's summet in the FAQ section on it. Just another thing to completely eliminate mate.

which all supports the theory that its overfueling, or fueling in the correct place, boost leak test is first, as everyones said.

I was thinking that however he did say the fuel pump and line were working correctly, I dunno if hes actually tested the pressure in the bay. the fuel lines are lovely and close to the chassis rails so its totally possible.

  • Author

I've had another look underneath the car today and I'm 99% certain that the trolley jack hasn't damaged anything underneath apart from the skirt, though it did come down with a hefty bump.

 

I've got a fuelab FPR with gauge that I'll pop on there tomorrow just to check the fuel pressure. Earlier today I checked and cleaned the coilpacks and all of the easily accesible connectors in the engine bay. Whatever the issue is it does seem to me around the area of the rear of the engine on the passenger side.

 

The aftermarket gauge is in psi so where initially I thought it was reading boost fine it actually blips just slightly above '0 psi' so there must be a boost leak, though every single hose, coupling and pipe has been checked and double checked. I suspect that there may be a hose or something loose at the back of the engine or quite possibly the passenger side turbo is playing up (though I don't think that this is the case).

 

I've spoken to a mate of mine who runs a local garage and he's offered to take a quick look, though by his own admission he's not an expert on the VG30DETT.

 

This may be a case of getting it up to Zedworld and letting them take over and sort it whilst I move house

I've had another look underneath the car today and I'm 99% certain that the trolley jack hasn't damaged anything underneath apart from the skirt, though it did come down with a hefty bump.

 

I've got a fuelab FPR with gauge that I'll pop on there tomorrow just to check the fuel pressure. Earlier today I checked and cleaned the coilpacks and all of the easily accesible connectors in the engine bay. Whatever the issue is it does seem to me around the area of the rear of the engine on the passenger side.

 

The aftermarket gauge is in psi so where initially I thought it was reading boost fine it actually blips just slightly above '0 psi' so there must be a boost leak, though every single hose, coupling and pipe has been checked and double checked. I suspect that there may be a hose or something loose at the back of the engine or quite possibly the passenger side turbo is playing up (though I don't think that this is the case).

 

I've spoken to a mate of mine who runs a local garage and he's offered to take a quick look, though by his own admission he's not an expert on the VG30DETT.

 

This may be a case of getting it up to Zedworld and letting them take over and sort it whilst I move house

 

Been thinking about this today, but what about this? if the return line had been damaged, ie crushed, fuel wouldn't be able to exit the feul rail as designed and may cause over pressurisation and over fueling, so at idle the plugs get wet and higher in the range the car backfires, I dunno if that possible but just a thought. However saying that id ex[ect it to chuck out black crap if that was the case. I guess you just gotta start at the basics and work your way back.

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