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Rear subframe assembly removal (and turbo NA compatibility)

Hi all,

 

Another post has prompted me to ask this (and steel the photo too! :D)

 

Can I check with your good selves, are these the only bolts I need to remove to drop the rear subframe (in red)? -

 

subframeassemblyanddiff.jpg

 

I realise that I'll need to unbolt the rear struts also. I'm hoping to do this tomorrow, or Monday. I realise It's probably a good time to change the bushes, but from what I've read it's a nightmare removing them, is a press required to insert the new ones?

 

I was going to swap this rear subframe assembly (from my NA, with an NA diff) onto a series one turbo shell. However, the turbo shell I'm getting on Tuesday will have all this intact, so is there any reason I can't just connect my NA engine and prop to the turbo diff? I'm obviously not going to have HICAS, but can I simply remove the HICAS connection, or lock it out with one of those bars or something? Sorry for my ignorance but as I've never had HICAS I've never had to think about it, or look at it etc.

 

Cheers!!

 

 

EDIT - I found this - http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=ra&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=18&design=default&total=35

 

So yes the sections I marked appear to be correct. From the looks of it, as the rear hubs are meant to move via the HICAS, I would have to connect a lock-out bar?

Edited by MasterCookieman

Featured Replies

Jack car up and support rear end up om axel stands

Rear wheels off

Calipers off

Unbolt shocks

Exhuast off

Exhaust heat sheild off

Release hand brake leaver and un hook from center rocker join

Undo prop shaft from the diff

Undo center bearing and remove prop

Support hole subframeand diff with a jack

3 bolts on each side front of the sub frame and 2 rear bolts u may have to use a cracker bar for the big bolts

 

 

 

Manual na prop shaft will fit directly to a tt box vise verser ....

Only differs with auto prop have to mix and match halfs

 

 

Mark

Edited by MarkDerby

Wouldnt say it would make it that slow but im sure it will be noticed

Edited by MarkDerby

  • Author

Thanks! Though I think I should swap my NA diff (including subframe assembly) over to the new shell. From searching the forum it seems everyone does the opposite, putting an NA diff on the turbo.

 

As my current shell is seriously rotten, I'm not sure where I'm going to support it from (it's currently on axel stands supported by the subrfame), but it seems best to swap the whole assembly over to the new shell, then I don't have to think about HICAS.

Just to clarify the break lines are not part of the rear sub frame assembly, just support the calipers so as not to damage the break lines.

  • Author

Cheers vodkashots, I was just going to remove the calipers completely, but yeah; normally I tie them to the strut.

 

I'm assuming that the front subframe is identical on turbo's and NAs, I see no reason they they would be different?

Can I check - is the front subframe identical on turbo's and NAs?

 

Brakes are different and i suspect ARB too as they are different on the rear

Jack car up and support rear end up om axel stands

Rear wheels off

Calipers off

Unbolt shocks

Exhuast off

Exhaust heat sheild off

Release hand brake leaver and un hook from center rocker join

Undo prop shaft from the diff

Undo center bearing and remove prop

Support hole subframeand diff with a jack

3 bolts on each side front of the sub frame and 2 rear bolts u may have to use a cracker bar for the big bolts

 

Manual na prop shaft will fit directly to a tt box vise verser ....

Only differs with auto prop have to mix and match halfs

 

Mark

 

Do you have to remove the prop at the centre bearing to get it out the way or is that just for convenience? The book just says disconnect at the diff...

Can I check - is the front subframe identical on turbo's and NAs?

 

the Front subframe on TT and NA are the same ..

 

what differs is

Front calipers and discs

Rear --- Hubs / Arms / Subframe / Diff

the Front subframe on TT and NA are the same ..

 

what differs is

Front calipers and discs

Rear --- Hubs / Arms / Subframe / Diff

 

Add ARB to the rear they are different in thickness hence the possibility that the front may be the same

I can't remember if it's a NA/TT or UK/JDM thing but my UK TT ARB's are both thicker and solid (until I changed them for Whiteline ones)and either the NA or JDM TT (or both) are lighter and hollow. Both front and back.

 

I'm leaning towards it being a UK/JDM thing but can't be sure.. :)

  • Author

My old front subframe is totally rotten, but the one on my new shell is solid...and lot's of turbo bits all over, not surprising really; as it was a turbo. I already have turbo discs and calipers on the front, so no change there. :)

 

Oh, although I didn't check, I'm fairly sure I have the ARB on the turbo shell.

Edited by MasterCookieman

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