What would cause the car to kangaroo? That's the best explanation I have or it anyway.

 

Often when I'm slowing doen in gear, or perhaps tickling the throttle at fairly low speeds, it feels like the car (or engine at least) is kangarooing so to speak.

 

Any ideas what would cause this?

Right, another update...

 

So I've been out and tried another MAF (my old one), the revs just went up and down - then up and down lol. Now I remember it was bust lol.

 

The worst bit was that all the bolts between the MAF and the air filter sheared off.... Oh *****x!!!

It's a good job that I had a spare brand new apexi air filter :)

 

So I now have a new air filter on and have cleaned the MAF connection yet again.

 

I also tried to take off the apexi twin chamber BOV's to tighten the springs as recommended by JeffTT ages ago. I got one off but the bolts on the end won't even budge 1 bit (anyone want to have a try, please be my guest). So after bloody ages of trying, I put it back on the car.

 

Anyway, took the car for a quick drive and it seems better, no kangarooing but every time I've cleaned the MAF it seems better but only lasts a very short time. I'm starting to think I should try buying a new one to rule it out completely.

 

I'll check in to let you know if it's still ok or not

NA and TT maf are the same Lee. You might have a problem with an air leak or a bov issue, if one of the bolts to adjust the needle is stuck it may be the cause f the idle problem. Im only guessing though bud as i have an NA and no bovs lol

There shouldnt be oil on the spark plug, if its not in tight enough or over fuelling it would be wet or carboned up, might be worth doing a compression test then work your way back up to the injectors, injector connectors then the coil packs and connectors.

If it wasnt for the oil on the plug, would be more than likely an electrical or air issue.

Thanks mate. If the mafs are the same, why do they have different codes on them?

My battery is too week to do a compression test, it dies real easy so will do that once I get a new one :-)

 

I'm thinking now ill try cleaning the throttle bodies,

checking the AAC valve

Setting the base idle again

Clean the air regulator

 

I'm assuming the best thing to use is brake cleaner or WD40 so all these things. Any ideas if there's anything better I can use?

As far as im aware the maf code should be the same unless upgraded from another car the poo code should be the same. You didnt buy one of those ebay ones did you, apparently no good. Give Jeff a bell, im sure he could clear up any queries you have.

sounds like the high idle issue is the problem tbh,as your slowing in gear the engine is pulling against the slowing transmission.Does your car have a manual conversion ? what is the idle valve percentage at idle on consult ?

Yeah it's a manual conversion.

I have datascan mate, which field is the idle valve? If its the AAC, then it was at 16 or 17 when the car was up to temperature

you are looking for 15% from the iacv at idle, so i doubt a couple of percent will make that much of a difference. Can you take a screen capture of the parameters in dial mode when you do another datascan, might be something to indicate an issue.

Will do mate. Do you want a shot when cold and warm or just warm?

ideally you know. use datascan when warm as some settings will be irrelevent, your problem appears when warm so get her up to temp.

If nothing untoward or obvious shows on the settings then looking at something else. Do a screen cap, then do another highlighting all the injectors, as iirc you may need to un tick some parameters to fit them in, like 02, maf etc.

Here are 4 screenshots.

I don't think I can change what come up on the dials or know how to see the injectors - if you can tell me how to do it I will

 

 

 

 

 

 

Anything look wrong? I noticed the AAC moved from like 13 to 20 while still idling.

 

 

Jimmer - what made you guess that its a manual conversion? Just sounded like you might have had an idea that's all

The AAC should remain constant on idle, the idle should be 700/750, so adjust the aac screw with the iacv plug unplugged down to around 650 then plug back in, the ecu will then take over the idle, which should then be whats required, you can then adjust the screw slightly if need to get the 15% at idle from the acc.

To get a reading from the 02 sensors, raise the revs to 2k rpm with the throttle body or accelerator to see what they are reading, if they are lazy or erratic then it will affect the fuel ratio, if that is the case, unplug both 02 sensor plugs, the ecu will run a means setting.

I made a video of the car at 2k revs so ill try and upload it to YouTube at some point soon (I'm only using my mobile for online stuff at the minute).

 

Ill try and do the AAC over the weekend if the weather is ok

Right, update.

 

I've been out and cleaned the throttle bodies with some WD40 and a toothbrush.

I then unplugged the plug on the acc (I'm assuming I got the right one - yellow one). Now I tried the set the revs with it unplugged but the revs aren't very static so I got it as best I could. Plugged it back in, the revs went up a bit but it seemed a waste of time, the AAC is just the same and still doesn't remain static like it should.

 

Anyone know why the AAC wouldn't be static?

Groover - how do I get to see other parameters in datascan such as the injectors like you mentioned?

 

There's one of our members have conzult and he's happy to pop that on the car. If you could tell me what readouts I need from it I could get them?

 

Thanks

Just a thought, have you tried disabling each coil pack during Data Scan so as to knock out one cylinder at a time?

Maybe it could be that the plug in cylinder 3 is down.

When you disable each plug separately you should see a noticeable drop in idle, at least this way you will be sure that all cylinders are firing.

Yeah I tried that initially and they all seemed fine. Ill certainly have another go though

Gonna get the car on consult at Paul's.

 

What read outs would ya's need to diagnose a problem?

Gonna get the car on consult at Paul's.

 

What read outs would ya's need to diagnose a problem?

 

1st port of call would be stored fault codes

Got none lol

Here's the conzult data. Does anything look wrong or out of place to you? The last 4 should be videos hopefully

 

 

 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a212/leenorton/16D13C9E-073A-4BA1-B4F9-85B3C8E7FE72-4908-000007C5CB105DE2.mp4

 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a212/leenorton/511F3744-4FA8-42AB-BAFF-BBB3B4620B2C-4908-000007C5F945B24C.mp4

 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a212/leenorton/6B12EC2F-78B5-407A-81AD-8639C205E049-4908-000007C67A6917D0.mp4

 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a212/leenorton/3A839619-2080-48BB-9939-C63A21E4ECD2-4908-000007C6C117E093.mp4

Edited May 2, 201312 yr by bird
Video links didn't work

Injector pulse and duty cycle is a little low and judging by the lack of drop in revs on the power balance test, you have an issue with cylinder 1 and 5

How would I check the injector stuff mate?

Have you checked your plugs and coil packs? Unplug each coil pack one by one to determine which cylinder changes or not as the case may be.

 

You can use a meter to measure the voltage at each connector, this will eliminate or pinpoint an injector plug, also check for corrosion on the pins.