Can I replace one of my smoking turbos on my Manual with one from an Auto? Is it just the exhaust flange which needs to be changed or is the whole unit different?

 

Thanks, Dan

I wouldn't advise it as the auto turbo starts spooling before the manual,

 

Auto turbos have a different AR and spool up quicker than manuals

 

So you'd have one making boost before the other

Ok, thanks, so would this cause premature failing of the auto turbo, the original turbo, or the bank on which the auto turbo is?

or you could put a pair of auto turbos on that match and have quicker spool I run autos with my manual box and its great :)

Mines an auto turbo manual box at 17psi it makes 430bhp and is at full boost from 3500rpm. Turbonoz mapping and just bolt ons. Absolutely rapid.

stock t22 turbos? sounds a bit high for them sounds more like bigger turbos

Mine were just made on a good day, for whatever reason they are just really fit turbos.

Mines an auto turbo manual box at 17psi it makes 430bhp and is at full boost from 3500rpm. Turbonoz mapping and just bolt ons. Absolutely rapid.

 

have you got a wideband?...intresting to know injector duty at that too as thats a nice figure. Persuming your on stock running gear?

I don't, you will have to ask Noz, he has a few long long threads about max safe boost and injector duty and there are graphs and all sorts. My brief to him was fast without exploding please and he came back with that. He asked what turbos they were and was pleasantly surprised, but assured me the car is not on the raggedy edge. We think the Selin dual filter and MAF Hardpipes and the straight through 3inch exhaust has just made a really easy breathing engine.

stock t22 turbos? sounds a bit high for them sounds more like bigger turbos

 

Im making very similar power on stock ones as well with link ecu and other mods

once my motors bedded in (again:rolleyes:) then ile be asking Noel to book mine in for a session of the Noz magic:thumbup1:

stock t22 turbos? sounds a bit high for them sounds more like bigger turbos

 

Indeed, that is what they felt like both on the road and on the dyno. I've got the logs, they pulled about 125 on the load scale at 17psi. Max load value the ECU is mapped to from factory is 88 (fueling) & 96 (timing). The power figure is simply a consequence of a specific amount of air being injested by the engine at a certain RPM. They're definitely not larger turbos, they dropped off quite a bit at higher revs, as expected.

 

Mine only used to hit 115 at 21psi with no real mods other than air filters & backboxes.

 

I don't, you will have to ask Noz, he has a few long long threads about max safe boost and injector duty and there are graphs and all sorts. My brief to him was fast without exploding please and he came back with that. He asked what turbos they were and was pleasantly surprised, but assured me the car is not on the raggedy edge.

 

As you had mentioned track time to me, it was mapped with that in mind. Little bit extra fueling top end and a little less timing all round. The main thing was to get it running spot on for you so you could experience a properly tuned Zed. Glad you like it!

 

We think the Selin dual filter and MAF Hardpipes and the straight through 3inch exhaust has just made a really easy breathing engine.

 

^^This :)

 

Due to the cost of a Selin set up, and the fact that in the US everyone states it's not needed until 450-500bhp, means it's an overlooked modification. Fact is, separating the intakes makes a huge amount of difference, both to spool & power/torque.

 

My own car was set at 1.4 bar at WOT with single intake & twin air filters. With the dual short intakes, it hit 1.5 bar on part throttle before I let off the accelerator. Really does free things up :D

Edited March 16, 201312 yr by Noz

have you got a wideband?...intresting to know injector duty at that too as thats a nice figure. Persuming your on stock running gear?

 

The thing about injector duty, it only becomes an issue at the top of the rev range with stock 370cc injectors. A typical VG30DETT makes peak power at 5800-6000RPM. Injector duty at this point is only around 75% at well over 400bhp. This is how it's possible to make good power from the small stock turbos once you've increased engine breathing efficiency, which in turn reduces BSFC, which is a ratio for describing how much power is produced for the fuel consumed. BSFC = fuel/power, therefore decreasing BSFC by increasing efficiency results in more power for the same amount of fuel, or better fuel consumption for the same power.

 

One Zed I worked with, fitted with the dreaded boost jets, uprated turbos & stock 370cc injectors meant that I had to reduce the RPM limit to ensure a suitable amount of headroom was available for fueling. These turbos didn't choke the same way as stock turbos, and as there was no way of reducing the boost level or increasing fuel pressure on that particular car, lowering the rev limit was the only way to go.

Historically opinion in the US was indeed single MAF was OK up to 500hp or thereabouts. Jim Selin's work with his dual maf and translator changed that view and now folks in the US now recognise the benefits of seperating the intakes.

 

-Andrew

Edited March 16, 201312 yr by AndrewG

I had a look on a US forum and they swear by power figures calculated from voltage at the MAF and it's either 5 or .5 volts maximum and that is where that 500 figure came from.

 

And Noz, I must apologise for the wobble I had where I was scared of the car and annoyed at clutch slip. It has stopped slipping and it is rapid, smooth and has such a rush at the top end. It is class :-) I blame the snow and ice following my collection of the car.