Just seeing if there is any knowledge in this country for this. I'm trying Japan and USA for info. Brake bleeding on a 95 300zx TT and there is no bleed nipples on the abs pump (see pics). Also in the FSM it does not even acknowledge that the 94+ Zeds have a different pump so cannot get information from there.

 

There does seem to be an oil sight glass on the side though. Has anybody in this country had experience in brake bleeding a later zed to get air out of the abs area? If it is a self bleeding system it doesn't seem to be working. The only other way I have thought of doing it is like you do on diesel injectors high pressure side.

 

Cheers

 

Marty

 

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/linestech.html

Read section 7 on how they just bleed it the normal way till the gurgling stoped.

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/linestech.html

Read section 7 on how they just bleed it the normal way till the gurgling stoped.

 

Read this already and hence why I'm asking the Japan and USA networks as well. It is not a definitive answer on that link at all or an understanding of whether the system self bleeds or doesn't need to be bled around the abs area which is what I am asking for.

No worries will keep searching for you.

Iam shure Jeff has done it.

Edited February 10, 201312 yr by Gaz 300
adding info

Furthermore to this there is no blink code LED on the control box which it says in the manual which again I presume has now moved to use the abs light on the dash as the fault code blinker which I remember another system doing this on the zed.

jap slapper was having a similar problem, not sure if he got his fixed or not

jap slapper was having a similar problem, not sure if he got his fixed or not

 

It's his zed ;) I'm looking at it and shedding more light on it.

when i replaced my brake fluid through out the system

 

i just started with Rear o/s > N/S Front O/s > N/S just kept topping it up till i has pushed the same amount out that i put in on each side

did no bleeding of the abs unit as i couldn't get to it at the time and brakes are fine

It's his zed ;) I'm looking at it and shedding more light on it.

 

lol

when i replaced my brake fluid through out the system

 

i just started with Rear o/s > N/S Front O/s > N/S just kept topping it up till i has pushed the same amount out that i put in on each side

did no bleeding of the abs unit as i couldn't get to it at the time and brakes are fine

 

Ok so as just as the manual states without even though it specifies to bleed the abs in the process. Ill let pez know that there is nothing wrong with the car or abs its just him.

 

The issue that everything written on every forum in the world relating to this is not first hand knowledge and as this system doesn't seem to be doing as it should I am trying to find somebody who has bled the brakes on a 94+, has no bleed nipples on the abs pump and has no blink led on the control box. That way I have a direct comparison to work against and not a list of people saying how they bled their brakes on their zed. That information is day one week one stuff on vehicle mechanic course.

Edited February 10, 201312 yr by Gonzo12c

I have a '95 zed, and did wonder myself.

 

The way bled them was just to bleed through alot of fluid, pushing any trapped air out of the ABS pump as I went. Never had any probs since doing it.

Ok so as just as the manual states without even though it specifies to bleed the abs in the process. Ill let pez know that there is nothing wrong with the car or abs its just him.

 

The issue that everything written on every forum in the world relating to this is not first hand knowledge and as this system doesn't seem to be doing as it should I am trying to find somebody who has bled the brakes on a 94+, has no bleed nipples on the abs pump and has no blink led on the control box. That way I have a direct comparison to work against and not a list of people saying how they bled their brakes on their zed. That information is day one week one stuff on vehicle mechanic course.

 

What is the system doing that jap slapper thinks is out the ordinary out of curiousty ?

What is the system doing that jap slapper thinks is out the ordinary out of curiousty ?

 

The system isn't bleeding hence the thread to try and get a 94+ confirmation on things. What I am really looking for is expertise that would confirm the make up of the 94+ abs pump and whether it is bled in anyway and the appearance of a sight glass on the side of the pump. I haven't had a go at bleeding it myself have just looked at the components on the car, read the usual information on the forums that go round in circles, looked at the service manual that doesn't acknowledge a different abs system (no bleed nipples on pump and no blink led on control unit) and then tried to find an answer to the question of what is the bleeding process for a 94+ zed before I waste time pumping oil round a system that may have a different bleeding process.

 

I would therefore consider the fact that the system is not bleeding a little out of the ordinary and instead of pumping fluid round the system all day to no avail it would be better to consult somebody who has knowledge on this later model system to answer the questions so far. On nico club the same question was posed and for about 10 posts after that people kept on saying on have to bleed the 2 nipples on the abs pump. Hopefully one of the US gurus will get back to me on 300zxclub.com

Edited February 10, 201312 yr by Gonzo12c

What is the system doing that jap slapper thinks is out the ordinary out of curiousty ?

 

In a nutshell when the ignition is off the brake pedal is relatively firm when pressed but as soon as the ignition is turned on, the brake pedal is very soft and takes 4-5 full to the floor presses for it to start to firm up (but not enough to stop the car) the pedal then go's soft again if not pressed requiring a further 4-5 presses to start to firm up again. When the pedal is pressed continuously (eg. 10 times) there is a distinct noise coming from the area (possibly from within) the actuator itself....the only way that I can explain it is a slightly high pitched wheeze/squeak

 

the revs also appear to drop very slightly when the brake pedal is continuously pressed but then return to normal when the pedal is released.

 

All connections have been checked and are tight, the brakes have been bled as per the manual (apart from the actuator as there are no bleed points) on 6-7 ocassions by a garage and by myself. The brake fluid eventually runs clear, the brake fluid pot is never allowed to run below 3/4.

 

The BMC hasn't been touched and all calipers are fitted correctly.

 

Effectively the brakes used to work really well and now they are about as much use as a chocolate fire guard.....with the added bonus of being blessed with an apparent asthmatic ABS actuator

 

*the ABS light also stays on....and there's no LED as per the manual

Edited February 10, 201312 yr by jap.slapper

TBH i think your focusing too much on the differences between ABS pumps with and without bleed nipples. Ive bled the brakes on my 95 on numerous occasions in my ownership and never had a problem with the bleeding cycle as per the WSM (and obviously deducting the bleeding points for the ABS pump from that cycle) and never had a problem with an air lock within the ABS pump. Im not saying there is not a possibility of an air lock in the pump, but if the system is bled enough there is no reason why the lock would not circulate itself through the system during a bleeding cycle.

 

Have you gone through the Diagnostics for the ABS system as per the work shop manual (Page 25 of section BR) It may well be that the ABS system has a fault

Ok this is my whole point how threads go in circles. Look on your 95 abs control unit do you have an led on the underside of it? I bet not so how are you going to do the diagnostics check?

 

Air in liquid what does it do? Rises correct therefore air in oil what does it do it rises giving you air in the system and air that gets caught in wonderful places hence brakes struggle to bleed.

 

Thanks for your points but I got it the first time you have bled yours it works.

Well id say that air is still trapped in the system then,in modern ABS systems sometimes the pump is actuated by a diagnostic computer to activate the soleniods in turn,instead of bleeding the system id go back to basics and force the air out from the caliper end using a clean oil can filled with brake fluid.If you look at it logically the pump is only a pump not some magic box,if you force the air the right way it will come out regardless of some fancy procedure Nissan may have,many ABS cars have bleeding done by many garages without the aid of special equipment.some systems need many litres of fluid to flow through before the air leaves,i had Nickz32s car in last yr,he had a clutch fitted by a Skyline specialist in London who fitted a braided pipe at the box end,the biting point was on the floor,they said the clutch was faulty and wanted more money to remove the box,Nick had somebody familiar with Zeds look at it and he couldnt cure it and then agreed it was a clutch problem,after alot of fluid ,and pumping with the oil can and patience it bled up,took quite a while but it worked.and if the pedal has overstroked or the caliper pistons were forced back to hard its not uncommon for seals to flip over in the master cylinder.

Edited February 10, 201312 yr by jimmer

Keep us updated if you find a solution Gonzo, I've always wondered how the later spec ABS pumps are bled.

The ABS diagnostics is done via the ABS light on the dash, not the pump. Read the manual, its very helpful for diagnostics...

 

HTH

The ABS diagnostics is done via the ABS light on the dash, not the pump. Read the manual, its very helpful for diagnostics...

 

HTH

 

Ok if you read the whole thread properly you will see that I said this in the first post as I know other systems on the later zed use dash lights instead of the old led's on boxes. Thing is though the online manual I read didn't confirm this and only mentioned a led blinker on the abs control box. You must have a 94+ manual. You will have to take a picture of yours so we can all see.

Edited February 10, 201312 yr by Gonzo12c

I bet iff you slackened those bango bolts a tad on top of the pump and let the fluid seep out without pumping the pedal then the air will rise out.I have a snap-on vacume bleeder and its worth its weight in gold Marty..has this been tried?

No ill be on it Wednesday for a proper look and tinker. I just wanted to know the 94+ system and what changes were made as any monkey can read a manual and do it but not really understand what they are doing. Well almost any monkey.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

No ill be on it Wednesday for a proper look and tinker. I just wanted to know the 94+ system and what changes were made as any monkey can read a manual and do it but not really understand what they are doing. Well almost any monkey.

Well I hope us monkeys where able to help!!

Well I hope us monkeys where able to help!!

 

:1eye:

Surely if the pedal is firm with ignition off, then its not air in the system,

If its soft when ignition is on and abs light is on there must be a problem with the pump itself.

If u hit the brakes and lock the wheels the pedal drops, and pulses under your foot stopping the wheels from skidding.

 

Sounds like the pump is constantly running or something making the pedal drop.

 

If u turn ignition off does the pedal pump straight back up,

 

If the light is on it has a fault if u cant read it cause difference in years with different lights etc, what about consult or a good diagnostic machine.

 

At work we have a launch x431 and it reads engine, abs, hicas etc. Surely that would point u in the right direction.

 

Never worked on later zeds, so don't know to much about them, but bleed brakes at work and bleed brakes on my zed and never touch the abs,

 

If u change master cylinder on a zed with nipple on abs u can bleed it there and get away with taking wheels off and doing all the calipers.

But even when changed my master cylinder just bleed at wheels never had a problem.

 

If it had air in it u should still feel it with ignition off, and ignition on should make no difference to pedal cause abs pump should do nothing to its skidding.

Maybe yours has a fault that it thinks its skidding and pumping constantly,

 

Hope u solve it, and good luck. .

Surely if the pedal is firm with ignition off, then its not air in the system,

If its soft when ignition is on and abs light is on there must be a problem with the pump itself.

If u hit the brakes and lock the wheels the pedal drops, and pulses under your foot stopping the wheels from skidding.

 

Sounds like the pump is constantly running or something making the pedal drop.

 

If u turn ignition off does the pedal pump straight back up,

 

If the light is on it has a fault if u cant read it cause difference in years with different lights etc, what about consult or a good diagnostic machine.

 

At work we have a launch x431 and it reads engine, abs, hicas etc. Surely that would point u in the right direction.

 

Never worked on later zeds, so don't know to much about them, but bleed brakes at work and bleed brakes on my zed and never touch the abs,

 

If u change master cylinder on a zed with nipple on abs u can bleed it there and get away with taking wheels off and doing all the calipers.

But even when changed my master cylinder just bleed at wheels never had a problem.

 

If it had air in it u should still feel it with ignition off, and ignition on should make no difference to pedal cause abs pump should do nothing to its skidding.

Maybe yours has a fault that it thinks its skidding and pumping constantly,

 

Hope u solve it, and good luck. .

 

The launch x431 at work does all the bits on the my zed, hicas, abs etc is on it.