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My car is all back together, havent been for a drive as yet...but been letting it idle a few times to get the air out of the system and check for leaks etc.

 

The car ticks over lovely....then all of a sudden will dip down to around 600 revs then picks up again!

 

Any thoughts on this, or is it a case of just giving it a bit of a run!

 

Dave

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Mine is similar, rises up then drops, rises up then drops, it's a constant loop !!

 

I would like it rock solid at say 750 but it is not unduly concerning me :cool3:.

Mines becoming a pain, very intermittent. No air leaks but think the Idle control valve is sticky. Think it needs taking of and given a clean. Only happens when up to temp so sometimes sitting in traffic it can rise then drop then rise then drop then sometimes be on the verge of stalling... This only happens when the Z is fully warmed up.. It's ok from cold, no bouncy idle.

Mines becoming a pain, very intermittent. No air leaks but think the Idle control valve is sticky. Think it needs taking of and given a clean. Only happens when up to temp so sometimes sitting in traffic it can rise then drop then rise then drop then sometimes be on the verge of stalling... This only happens when the Z is fully warmed up.. It's ok from cold, no bouncy idle.

 

Mine is the same, i sort mine out by putting the heater on, but its eating fuel, im not so sure its the idle control valve, as i have changed that part on mine for a known working good one, im leaning more to the cold air idle adjuster thingy that sits next to the idle control valve that controls the revs with a cold engine to get it heated up faster, if this is sticking im guessing that once the car is warmed up, its trying to close but doesnt, the idle valve is then trying to control the idle but it keeps getting conflicting readings. so instead the idle fluctuates.

 

Here is the video of mine doing it.

 

3YYpgxcCkbQ

  • Author
does it fluctuate a lot or just the once?

 

Hi Ian...if I let her run for say 5 mins will do it 3/4 times

  • Author
Mine is similar, rises up then drops, rises up then drops, it's a constant loop !!

 

I would like it rock solid at say 750 but it is not unduly concerning me :cool3:.

 

But I am ultra fussy and it wasnt there before I carried out this work:tt2::lol:

  • Author
Hi,

 

have you done all this:

 

http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.335

 

Oh, and Jeff has a guide somewhere on the forum for adjusting the throttle bodies so they are equal...

 

Mine just started doing it as well... so I'll be doing some checks as soon as the weather permits...

 

Nice check sheet will enjoy testing all that, thanks fella:cool3:

Mine did this for a while, but it seems to be pretty much sorted now. I checked and cleaned the connectors on the water temp sender, and the connection on top of the idle control valve. I also checked coolant levels, connections to the ECU in the passenger footwell, and all the fuses (not saying these things are whats wrong, just everything I did on my car).

 

After that the idle evened out but was very low, so I adjusted the idle up by disconnecting the IAC and turning the bolt on the side of the IAC unit next to the battery (as if to unscrew it). Seems to be running perfectly now, 1000rpm when cold dropping to 750 rpm when warmed up, with the heaters turned off.

 

Just some ideas

Cheers, John

  • Author
May be worth checking the connections are clean and good on the two iiavc connections.

 

all connections were cleaned ready for my shiney new loom:tooth:

Here is the video of mine doing it.

 

Mine does pretty much that :mad2:.

 

I cannot see your needle....still, haha :offtopic:.

 

You can keep fancy led bulbs for the four needle illuminating bulbs, good old fashioned T10 amber filament ones work best I find :cool3:.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Amber-T10-501-W5W-Side-Indicator-Repaeter-Bulbs-UK-/360387092407?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53e8be9fb7

  • Author
Mine did this for a while, but it seems to be pretty much sorted now. I checked and cleaned the connectors on the water temp sender, and the connection on top of the idle control valve. I also checked coolant levels, connections to the ECU in the passenger footwell, and all the fuses (not saying these things are whats wrong, just everything I did on my car).

 

After that the idle evened out but was very low, so I adjusted the idle up by disconnecting the IAC and turning the bolt on the side of the IAC unit next to the battery (as if to unscrew it). Seems to be running perfectly now, 1000rpm when cold dropping to 750 rpm when warmed up, with the heaters turned off.

 

Just some ideas

Cheers, John

 

Thanks John some good advice there, :punk:will try anything

Mine is the same, i sort mine out by putting the heater on, but its eating fuel

 

Yep! In that vid is pretty much what mine is doing only my revs sometime get a bigger bounce dropping sometime to below 450ish rpm then it nearly stalls... Some times i get a little bounce like in your video then it will stabalise at 1000rpm.. Normally better when there is no auxilarys on. These dark cold mornings tho mean lights are on, heater, rear demister, causes it to bounce more!! Like you say if i just press the front screen air con demister on then that stops the bounce as the revs rise to compensate for the air con unit... Eats fuel and fumes out the cars behind tho!

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