Just wondered about Horns people are using? and what is not permitted...

as I have only pressed the horn once on my zed. and not sure if this is a JDM thing... but Good Lord, the thing sounds like a knackered Reebok Classic :D

thought of dual tone AIR Horn on 12v. but not sure if that fits the bill, and wondered about tones they produce.. also tempted to check with a mechanic friend of mine if he is going to scrap any customers car that has a Good horn maybe.... but will sure have a listen to it first :D

My current horn is actually a twin Jap Exhaust... will need to take a Pic of the writing and find out more about it. as it sounds Great... ( for the 1st time i got stuck in lights behind my Zed.. and once my friend Pulled off the lights, I was sure to abort sale thoughts/idea :D )

 

** for the technical Lot out there**

 

if I want to change the Timing belt and water Pump, can I do so with Just loosening the front. without disconnecting Hoses, etc?? as will be looking to get the Air-con Hardware off too... and lighten the thing up :) can that be easily accessed with the engine still mounted?

 

**While I am at it** anyone got tips on Refurbing Rims??

Temptation to Keep my Nismo's for a bit longer and get them nice and shiny. then in May/June look for a new set..

 

if I want to change the Timing belt and water Pump, can I do so with Just loosening the front. without disconnecting Hoses, etc??

 

Simple answer... no...

 

there are plenty of tech posts about timing and the Service manual is a must...

if you're not using OEM belt you need to count cogs (well you really need to do that anyway)

if you put it back together with the timing (a tiny bit) wrong the just wont run right.

Simple answer... no...

 

there are plenty of tech posts about timing and the Service manual is a must...

if you're not using OEM belt you need to count cogs (well you really need to do that anyway)

if you put it back together with the timing (a tiny bit) wrong the just wont run right.

 

will the counting be due to missing markers on belt? what risks are there for missing a one or two on any of the pullies? cheers :)

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Simple answer... no...

 

there are plenty of tech posts about timing and the Service manual is a must...

if you're not using OEM belt you need to count cogs (well you really need to do that anyway)

if you put it back together with the timing (a tiny bit) wrong the just wont run right.

 

will the counting be due to missing markers on belt? what risks are there for missing a one or two on any of the pullies? cheers :)

not really, the markers are only approximate and after market ones are worse....

 

if you miss a cog or two the car will run rough and the CAS will most likely be be at full adjustment just to get it to run.

it is "really" worth doing the job right!!!

 

link to the Service manual... page 12 onwards (page 16 has the cog count)

 

http://stadzport.com/FSM/EM_Engine_Mechanical.pdf

Edited November 26, 201213 yr by Medallion Man

Buy a genuine timing belt, no point in scrimping on this part as its too important. The timing marks on the pulleys although there for reference only are pretty damn close, but ive seen some aftermarket belts with no timing marks on at all :nono:

 

You will need to remove the water pipes (hoses and hard pipe) to get the timing cover off, you will have more room by removing the rad and viscous fan. As said plenty of write ups and pics in the tech section.

not really, the markers are only approximate and after market ones are worse....

 

if you miss a cog or two the car will run rough and the CAS will most likely be be at full adjustment just to get it to run.

it is "really" worth doing the job right!!!

 

link to the Service manual... page 12 onwards (page 16 has the cog count)

 

http://stadzport.com/FSM/EM_Engine_Mechanical.pdf

 

I thought with the markers already on pullies, it would be just a matter of lining up with marks on engine and those on the belt...

 

 

 

Buy a genuine timing belt, no point in scrimping on this part as its too important. The timing marks on the pulleys although there for reference only are pretty damn close, but ive seen some aftermarket belts with no timing marks on at all :nono:

 

You will need to remove the water pipes (hoses and hard pipe) to get the timing cover off, you will have more room by removing the rad and viscous fan. As said plenty of write ups and pics in the tech section.

 

 

are there any belts recommended? as was thinking of getting the best I can get my hands on. not a place to be cutting corners for sure... and my fear has been of touching the tensioner... now I dread the removal of pipes for first time... as never done a a belt on a V engine myself before... then again BMW's ran on chain that lasted way past the scrap date... :D

I thought with the markers already on pullies, it would be just a matter of lining up with marks on engine and those on the belt...

 

no...

 

 

are there any belts recommended? as was thinking of getting the best I can get my hands on. not a place to be cutting corners for sure... and my fear has been of touching the tensioner... now I dread the removal of pipes for first time... as never done a a belt on a V engine myself before... then again BMW's ran on chain that lasted way past the scrap date... :D

 

 

as groover says go with OEM for best results and count as well as use the marks.

 

links for belt change guides...

 

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/timingbelttech.html

 

http://z32.wikispaces.com/Timing+Belt+Service

 

and a very good one from our Jeff at Zedworld

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?135139-Align-timing-belt&highlight=timing

 

in case you hadn't bothered to search on this forums FAQ tech section... :)

Edited November 26, 201213 yr by Medallion Man

When I first got my car, I fitted an aftermarket belt with no marks at all, took some serious brain work and big b0ll0cks when I started it up, but got it perfect, so it can be done if you are confident, but don't bother and just get an OEM belt.

I've also got the stock horns, roadrunner 'meep meep' stylee, but also got 3 air horns as well, small, medium, and and a big chief, which take a split second for the compressor to kick in, so if it's friendly 'Meep meep, Morning Vicar!', on the way to the shops, just a couple of quick taps on the horn, but if it's a 'Get the fook out of my way damn Vicar!' I hold my hand on it and make people poo. Also great on the motorway if a big lorry or truck pulls out on you, they ain't gonna hear little toy town horns, but blast your air horns and they will.

When I first got my car, I fitted an aftermarket belt with no marks at all, took some serious brain work and big b0ll0cks when I started it up, but got it perfect, so it can be done if you are confident, but don't bother and just get an OEM belt.

 

My main concern with the belt is. ( can I get all cams fixed so there is no movement on them as I release the tensioner? specially the bottom one where the marker will be a B!t$h to get to alone, then making the correct alignment in such claustrophobic spot )

and wouldn't with this one try to apply my wise words of { EVERYTHING IS POSSIBLE, WITH THE RIGHT ATTITUDE AND A HAMMER} hahaha

 

I've also got the stock horns, roadrunner 'meep meep' stylee, but also got 3 air horns as well, small, medium, and and a big chief, which take a split second for the compressor to kick in, so if it's friendly 'Meep meep, Morning Vicar!', on the way to the shops, just a couple of quick taps on the horn, but if it's a 'Get the fook out of my way damn Vicar!' I hold my hand on it and make people poo. Also great on the motorway if a big lorry or truck pulls out on you, they ain't gonna hear little toy town horns, but blast your air horns and they will.

 

that standard horn is sure a joke... would rather use a bike bell than it.....

I LIKE THE AIR horn for sure. just wondering where to hook it... and fear pressing it in the local proximity by mistake late evenings/nights, and get the car key'd for it by one of the London Villains with an ASBO-on-his-CV... hahaha

 

btw, does all three of them use a single wiring/fixing of 12v??

Get the timing set to TDC, all marks on cam and crank aligned, unlikely to get the marks on the old belt aligned lol, then using an m6 bolt on the tensioner as in the write up, release the tension from the belt, remove old belt, now you will get very little movement from the cams as they are in between rotation so to speak, any movement will be a few mill anti clockwise on the driver side cams, which you can rectify with some stilsons to move back into place as you mount the belt over each one.

 

Read and re read the write up till its clear in your head, i read it a fair few times with my first belt and checked and double checked once it was on to make sure it was spot on.

Get the timing set to TDC, all marks on cam and crank aligned, unlikely to get the marks on the old belt aligned lol, then using an m6 bolt on the tensioner as in the write up, release the tension from the belt, remove old belt, now you will get very little movement from the cams as they are in between rotation so to speak, any movement will be a few mill anti clockwise on the driver side cams, which you can rectify with some stilsons to move back into place as you mount the belt over each one.

 

Read and re read the write up till its clear in your head, i read it a fair few times with my first belt and checked and double checked once it was on to make sure it was spot on.

 

will sure read and watch some videos on the topic before digging my teeth into it :)

and Just had a thought of what would happen if this was the case with Zed timing...

 

 

 

All engines should be like that!

 

As regards the horn, I took a feed for the compressor from the drivers side horn, just piggy-backed the live, made a bracket and mounted them under the nose panel, pointing down so no water gets in, they fit a treat, you'll have to put a bigger fuse in though, as the compressor will likely pop it as it pulls more juice. I got mine for free, a spack mate of mine bought some tune playing dixieland ones for his punto, realised he was a gay, so I used three of them and modified the compressor to just one outlet. Although I have had them on every one of my cars as I do a lot of motorway miles, and have needed them many times.

All engines should be like that!

 

As regards the horn, I took a feed for the compressor from the drivers side horn, just piggy-backed the live, made a bracket and mounted them under the nose panel, pointing down so no water gets in, they fit a treat, you'll have to put a bigger fuse in though, as the compressor will likely pop it as it pulls more juice. I got mine for free, a spack mate of mine bought some tune playing dixieland ones for his punto, realised he was a gay, so I used three of them and modified the compressor to just one outlet. Although I have had them on every one of my cars as I do a lot of motorway miles, and have needed them many times.

 

Sounds like you got

Which compressor on driver side? don't the set up comes with a compressor and the Voovoo-zela end in different lengths for different note... and the hose set in the pack? and the fuse if for the Horn relay itself?

Not compressor on the drivers side, the horn, just took the feed from it, there's a horn either side. Yeah, your normal air horn package will come with a compressor with just one outlet that you split into 2 or 3 or however many horns you get in the set, yep in different sizes, but the kit i got for free had five different sizes to play dixieland, dukes of hazard stylee, and the compressor has a spinning disc in it which opens the ports to each horn in sequence to play the tune, i removed all that crap and had just one outlet split to three horns, only did this as it was brand new and free, and the horns and compressor i had been using for years were a bit duff. Not usually a relay, just a live and a ground, the fuse you uprate is the one in the fusebox.

will sure read and watch some videos on the topic before digging my teeth into it :)

and Just had a thought of what would happen if this was the case with Zed timing...

 

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]67597[/ATTACH]

 

looks to me in that pic ... middle left idle gear has had bearing collapsed

plus stripped teeth on bottom sprocket

 

 

regarding timing on that engine it would be just as easy

 

Long as the bottom timing mark and the cams was aligned the

idlers sprockets between it doesn't make any different

Edited November 29, 201213 yr by MarkDerby

looks to me in that pic ... middle left idle gear has had bearing collapsed

plus stripped teeth on bottom sprocket

 

 

regarding timing on that engine it would be just as easy

 

Long as the bottom timing mark and the cams was alight the

idlers sprockets between it doesn't make any different

 

Well spotted Mark.

indeed what happened to this V12 Ferrari engine :)

 

changing any of the two for me is still an unfamiliar ground. though would have thought this would last more milage than the TT belt before needing change.

would love to see a ZX running on chain if there is a oil casing plus the correct pullies to suite such thing.

Yeah chain driven engines will do 100k before change .... the r35 engine is chain driven ... but to have vg30 changed to chain would mean major work wouldnt be worth it

there are pro's con's on both types even the gear driven cams like the above pic

indeed there is always pros and cons. though would have thought chain would last well into 200k.

as my old man's BMW had 300+k on the first chain with regular oil and maintenance...

yeah your right but manufactures state its serviced at 100k there abouts but int he real world it will last loads longer

its not really the chain that fails but more the tensioners and guides

Double row Timing chains like those fitted to BMW's are lifetime parts without a manufacturer replacement service interval.

I have worked on a couple of jags the v8 engines, and tensioners fail, chains stretch, guides etc.

And there a nightmare when play up.

 

Few Vauxhall engines are crap chains too.

I prefer belts, they are great has long has serviced right.

 

Hate little engines with chains, if things like head gaskets go so much work to strip down.

 

Done head gaskets on a few bmw too the straight 6 engines, stupid chain lol, for that vanos, would be fine in a garage with all the holding tools but when u work mobile like I do have to make do with making marks etc.

 

Zx belts is great to do, once radiator is out loads of room.

 

Bottom pulley can be a bitch to get off.

 

Marks on belt go to the marks on sprockets, ones on engine are for reference only.

Get Nissan belt and u know marks are good to go.

 

Ain't got a clue on horn, but for a big motor the zx has a weak horn lol. Sounds like a moped.

yeah your right but manufactures state its serviced at 100k there abouts but int he real world it will last loads longer

its not really the chain that fails but more the tensioners and guides

 

funny you say that. I was in my cousin's garage last week. he had a 3-series on 51plate that the bottom sprocket snapped on... resulted on damage to the internal casing. and god knows what else... once I saw that I had to check the milage... 81K and I was in a state of wander... must be the one that balanced the odds for a ONE-IN-a-Million case ;)

 

 

 

 

Double row Timing chains like those fitted to BMW's are lifetime parts without a manufacturer replacement service interval.

 

I had the pleasure dealing with one of these on a Mini... as the lady made a mess of things in the engine... she had a water leak, and was told to use a sealant.. she got the correct one... though, popped the hood open and first place to see a lid was the engine... and there goes the whole lot of red stuff....

i had the pleasure of trying to revive that thing... and gave 2 days with diesel and wire brush till my mind became flammable... at the end, more parts needed more cleaning... and 2 fresh oils later, engine just packed it in... chain was as new almost after soaking in Diesel... though the rest was as good as fire wood...

another £800 for a Mini heart transplant. and it was back to life.... me personally wouldn't have coughed that much on a modern Mini...

 

 

I have worked on a couple of jags the v8 engines, and tensioners fail, chains stretch, guides etc.

And there a nightmare when play up.

 

Few Vauxhall engines are crap chains too.

I prefer belts, they are great has long has serviced right.

 

Hate little engines with chains, if things like head gaskets go so much work to strip down.

 

Done head gaskets on a few bmw too the straight 6 engines, stupid chain lol, for that vanos, would be fine in a garage with all the holding tools but when u work mobile like I do have to make do with making marks etc.

 

Zx belts is great to do, once radiator is out loads of room.

 

Bottom pulley can be a bitch to get off.

 

Marks on belt go to the marks on sprockets, ones on engine are for reference only.

Get Nissan belt and u know marks are good to go.

 

Ain't got a clue on horn, but for a big motor the zx has a weak horn lol. Sounds like a moped.

 

 

so the Marks on the engine casing are not necessarily correct? just a NISSAN belt to Pullies aligned correctly is what is needed?

as you say, once radiator is off.. and that for me is a giant leap for man-kind :D

whoever paired that car_design+engine to the standard horn they come with the ZED, need their head examined... it is like a bodybuilder on steroids, too intimidating till the high-pitch vocal notes grace your ear-drum.... and that thought of, IS THIS A DUBBED voice over dialogue... lol