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  • Replies 53
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that sounds er lovely lol. right first things first check you have all the cylders working. work back through from one to six and unplug the coil pack connector. if it changes note that one is working. secondly go over the lines and check nothing popped off a large boost leak could cause it to run like this. failing that it could be spark(ptu/connections) or maf related. id pop over and have a look but i dont have a car myself atm my zeds in bits and im not supposed to use the van for personal use.

its worth running the ecu for diagnostics you can do this by turning a simple pertentiometer in the passenger footwell it will give you a list of faults or display an alls ok code.

but personally to me it sounds like things arnt quite happening in the correct order rather than mechanical failure, are you loosing oil/water or producing smoke?

  • Author

Some smoke on idle, had it for a while. Assumed it was PCV valve related. Changed one recently but heard it can take a fair few miles to clear it. No noticeable loss in power and I don't think I have a boost leak as the gauge is staying steady. If you really wanna help I could come to you with it tomorrow. It's worth some beer tokens...

lol i can certiantly have a good look over for the obvious for you ive got a compression tester aswel. im free for a few hours after 3 if you wanna pop round. im no mechanic but ive had one for a few years now. that any use to you?

gimme a text on ############### il text you my addy. if a mod could please del my number once daves got it.

Edited by Stephen
del phone number

Bit awkward to tell through speaker on my phone. But seeing as the knocking doesnt seem to be rev related.

Is the knocking sounding like its from the front bottom end?, maybe a loose timing belt adjuster could be worth checking it as it makes a horrid rattle almost like a bottom end knock.

  • Author

Hard to tell, didn't have much time to look into it today. Not being a mechanic either slows me down some.

Think there's a smell of unburnt fuel coming from the exhaust too which would lead me to think it's misfiring...

Unplug coilpacks with engine running one by one, make sure they are all making a difference when you unplug em... mine was making exact same noise was just one of the back cylinders dropped out. the noise made me worry big time, but it doesnt sound major.

 

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That thing is definately running on 5.

  • Author

Ok, crisis potentially over!

Cylinder 4 isn't firing and I've narrowed it down to the spark plug. 6 new spark plugs on order.

Hopefully that will cure things. Must remember not to lose all hope the moment something isn't perfect with the Zed next time.

  • Author

Right update....

Unplugging the coil pack on cylinder 4 does nothing. Injector is tapping away like normal. Swapped coil pack and the problem stays in the same place. Ptu is sending a signal (ground, 12v constant and 12v flash) and I've now fitted a new spark plug. What now?

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Right update....

Unplugging the coil pack on cylinder 4 does nothing. Injector is tapping away like normal. Swapped coil pack and the problem stays in the same place. Ptu is sending a signal (ground, 12v constant and 12v flash) and I've now fitted a new spark plug. What now?

ohm the injector , the plug is good, the coilpack is good. its eiother a duff signal or a duff injector. or no compression. pop the plug out with the coil pack get an assisant to turn the engine over and see if it sparks up dont let it touch the bodywork. that will prove or disprove the spark. if its not sparking the plug will be fuel fouled. so you will know your getting fuel. the injector may be ticking away but actually throwing in very little fuel.

  • Author

You free this weekend if I swing by?

 

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You free this weekend if I swing by?

  • Author

Ok, another update...

I have most definitely got a spark at the plug.

Unplugged te injector, tested between the terminals and got a reading of 120 Ohms. Am I right in thinking the reading should actually be around 12 Ohms?

yeah between 12 and 14 if you have got a reading of 120 firstly have you done it correctly? (no offense im just thinking about the decimals option on the multimeter) if yes its totally fubared. it will not be injecting fuel at that resistance and the cylinder will not fire. hence the problem... im about after 4 on saturday.

  • Author

Yeah, I know what I'm up to. Electrician of 10 years. Would it still tick at 120 Ohms? I was definitely getting a ticking through a screwdriver.

It would still click given the injectors are controlled by cutting the earth from the injector directly from the ecu.

 

At 120ohm's it won't be feeding fuel correctly, you'll have to replace it. then you'll be on your merry way sir.

 

You're going to need rubber grease for seating the replacement injectors o rings, and it is a plenum pull to get at them.

Yeah, I know what I'm up to. Electrician of 10 years. Would it still tick at 120 Ohms? I was definitely getting a ticking through a screwdriver.

 

Ah ok lol as I say didnt want to offend it was just a spooky number so ibthought id ask.

 

Your going dremel method yeah?

 

As above though.yeah its bummed.

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