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Hi,

 

I'm sure I remember a post somewhere where the rear drain pipes were adapted so they allowed water to run out cleanly and not allow water to sit on the bodywork/chassis, for the life of me I can't find it. Does it ring any bells with anyone?

 

Cheers

 

Vijay

Featured Replies

yeah, I remember that... something about extending the pipe for the rear outlet, it was after a load of welding to fix the rust..

 

but can't remember who it was....

  • Author

Thanks Andy. I assume you did that before any welding was carried out? Mine has already been welded back up.....................

you can still do it after the welding . there is a rubber grommet in place where the new rubber hose exits . just remove the grommet and open the hole out with a drill bit to take the hose . with the interior trim panels removed just feed the hose through and connect up to the top drain point . i put a small piece of copper pipe into the exit end of the hose so that i could bend it to the shape that i wanted and then secured in place with a p clip . its a really easy job to do with obvious benefits . expect to lose the normal skin off your knuckles as with any job on a zed.

  • Author

Cheers Andy, I'll have another look today :)

Yep, good idea, or you could end up in my situation -

 

cimag0373.jpg

 

id say your car is beyond saving, reshell would be a better option.

  • Author

My sills have already gone, they've been rewelded up. It turns out that one of the 2 bodyshops in the past nightmare I had (not the guys my car is with now I'd like to point out) had actually filled in the drivers side rear drain valve. I'm doing what Andy did and running new pipes in one piece

  • Author

I did mine slightly differntly. I used a single pipe from the top to the bottom and where it exits, I pushed a 10mm copper olive into the pipe, so it flairs the end and stops the pipe going back in the hole. I then used some Sikaflex to fix it in place an seal the hole. I'll post up some pictures when I take them :)

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