If I measure the ciruit resistance at the connector behind the plenum, what should the it be both going the the senor and to the ECU?

http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonationSensor/detonationSensor.html

 

has the info on the resistance.

 

Vijay

Thanks Vijay,

 

Has anyone ever done the bypass or as an alternative tried the alternative installation point/method for the sensor next to the connector. I'm panicing having recently had a cracked cylinder head replaced I don't think that I can cope with the engine having to come out again. Even more irritating, I suspect that the detonation sensor was working until she went in for the the new cylinder head (but I can't proove it!!)

 

I was running about 13 psi of boost with an otherwise standard setup without any previous detonation problems. Is bypassing the senor worth the rsik until I can afford to get it properly fixed?

some people say yes, some say no. Personally no unless you know the det sensor is definatly faulty, then I suppose you might as well as it wouldn't detect detonation anyway. Did you check the resistance?

 

Vijay

Good question BUT do you want to risk the damage??? The problem is, even though you may not be getting detonation now, if you get a bad batch of fuel, then you may get it. If the det sensor is faulty the car will stay in safety boost - therefore protecting itself. If you bridge the sensor, the ecu loses the ability to detect detonation and cannot drop the boost and retard the timing to protect itself.

 

BTW - your car MAY detonate on full boost BUT because the det sensor has gone it never gets there. Therefore if you bridge the det sensor, you'll get full boost back and MAY end up deting - then the engine can't protect itself... Just a thought...

 

Another point worth mentioning - the engine DOES NOT have to come out to replace the det sensor - you only have to remove the upper and lower intake

 

HTH

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

Thanks again.

 

Vijay, the ECU side gives approx. 500 k resistance whereas the sensor side appears to be open circuit. SO I suppose it must be the sensor. Sigh!!!

 

Andy, what would be a rough estimate of the time to change the sensor.

 

 

Good question - I'd guess at around about 5 hours - could be more could be less - don't forget you'll also need a few gaskets too - lower intake-heads and lower intake-upper intake...

 

Would also be a good time to replace the small coolant hoses under the upper intake plenum and do the PCVs etc... Did I mention I could polish the plenum too while its off???

 

 

HTH

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

 

not as good as a fully working sensor, but better then a bypass

http://www.angelfire.com/geek/vg30dett/DSR/DetSenRel01.html