Hi mate's

 

Im pissed and kinda happy at the same time, got my wheels last week delivered from drift works ,called them a bunch of times asking about fitment.

they said et 30 was ok for my car but i guess there wrong.

 

i put them on to day with sum budget tyres for the mean while "SUNNY 255/35/18 FRONT AND 265/35/18 BACK"

 

WAS LOOKING COOL! heres a pic!

 

 

i went round the corner and i hear a grinding noise, im saying wat the **** was that !!!

 

its the wheel grinding on the caliper lol so im like ffs new ****ing wheels lol ("THANK GOD IT WAS IN THE INSIDE")

 

So i go and get 5mm spacers for the front(for an offset of et25 now!) it now looks like this lol

 

 

i go around the corner again guess what a 3rd problem, wheel was hitting the arch/fender.

 

The tyre guy says, due to the car was in a previous accident the tension arm was change since then,

 

but the tyre guy is saying that due to the tension rods are diffrent one is adjustable(drivers side) and one is standard(passenger), that's the problem for the passenger wheel is sitting and inch too far back.

 

is this correct?

 

1. Tyre sizes - Fine
   
2. Ouuuuch, if they said 30 was fine and you're running with stock brakes, then they ****ed up and owe you a new wheel (did it do this both sides?). Obviously don't get another 30 and use a spacer, that defeats the point of buying the correct size wheel in the first place.
   
3. Not much you can do about the arch there, if something's bent then it's bent. choices there are either throw the required money at sorting it out, or live with the rub.
   

If one is adjustable then what's to stop you adjusting it to make it the same size as the standard one? But to be honest, I'd want matching parts and would just buy a new pair of tension rods.

Wat im trying to find out, is the adjustable tension rods at lowest setting same size as the originals?

Can this be the reason why it's sitting too far back?

Fronts sound far to wide to me, mine are 235/40/18 on a similar wheel. Also I wouldnt look to change those tyres anyway I cant imagine they are particularly suitable to keeping 300bhp/300lbft or so in check.

 

I would get your car checked as it sounds like its been badly repaired after an accident. Why on earth has it got one adjustable tension rod and one standard tension rod?!?!?

 

The car needs checking for arm and suspension damage to make sure things are not bent underneath.

i was going to say 8>8.5" wheel should have 225>245Max ... but 8.5=235 is a good match and will not catch on the arch's ...

Front tyre size should be 235/40/18 to keep in line with the rear size you have - and to match the rim width as said above......

 

.....and economy tyres like "Sunny" are bad news on any high performance car mate; best change them for a decent, proven, brand as soon as possible. The 300zx has a habit of getting tail happy and it takes a good tyre to tame the beast and keep you safe and alive!!!

 

Having two different style tension rods is not good news either; you need to get that looked at and changed - plus a proper 4 wheel allignment set up done to make sure all is well. The new wheels do look very nice though; I hope it can be easily be fixed!

 

Richard:balloon:

I very much doubt that Driftworks can be liable for this, as ET 30 shouldn't be an issue. Possibly the inner rims design is the problem. To put that into perspective I'm running two sets of rims on mine at the front (both 9" wide) one set are ET +45 (18") and the other set are ET -7 (17") and they both clear 8 pot calipers on 356mm discs.

It may just be that those particular style of Rota's aren't very forgiving.

Get yourself some adjustable tension rods mate.

are they ROTA Grids .. look all most like gtr's

lol cause im an idiot i though i could put a standard on on for the mean while till the car gets rolling ........still need to know if the there is a diffrence in size?

It will depend on the manufacturer of the adjustable one but I would imagine it will go both shorter and longer than the standard one, the only way to run it like that would be to strip both tension rods off and reset the adjustable one next to the standard one and then re-fit them mate...but if i were you then I'd get a new set of adjustables as soon as or else just get a single used standard one to replace the adjustable.

i was thinking it cant be the steering rods even though its a standard one, cause its set at its original state. so it has to be something else either the chassis the suspension or the wheel hub again.

 

Gonna take both wheels of tomorrow and match them up,take more photo's and make a video tomorrow and post it up on you tube so you guys can have a look, maybe you can see things i cant.

 

also got a guy to come have a it as well.

 

thanks mates

what J are the wheels? 8.5? 9? 9.5? Im running 9.5j all round on mine with an et of 35 on the front and et30 on the rear's. Also I thought adding a 5mm spacer would give you an et of 35 not 25 as you moving the wheel away from the hub not towards it but i could be wrong. Im running 225 40 18 front and 245 40 18 rear with no problems plus mine has been lowered a fair bit. I would say your cheapest option would be to change the tyres first best to get part worns until you have the size that fits and doesn't rub as its a lot cheaper than buying new.

yes but as far as his nearside tyre is to close to the arch ..is it the same on other side it not then defo something bent

what J are the wheels? 8.5? 9? 9.5? Im running 9.5j all round on mine with an et of 35 on the front and et30 on the rear's. Also I thought adding a 5mm spacer would give you an et of 35 not 25 as you moving the wheel away from the hub not towards it but i could be wrong. Im running 225 40 18 front and 245 40 18 rear with no problems plus mine has been lowered a fair bit. I would say your cheapest option would be to change the tyres first best to get part worns until you have the size that fits and doesn't rub as its a lot cheaper than buying new.

 

No, BigZ was right, spacers reduce the ET not increase it.

Trust me i done my research lol !!!!! people done like me cause im belling down there phone asking questions lol :P

what J are the wheels? 8.5? 9? 9.5? Im running 9.5j all round on mine with an et of 35 on the front and et30 on the rear's. Also I thought adding a 5mm spacer would give you an et of 35 not 25 as you moving the wheel away from the hub not towards it but i could be wrong. Im running 225 40 18 front and 245 40 18 rear with no problems plus mine has been lowered a fair bit. I would say your cheapest option would be to change the tyres first best to get part worns until you have the size that fits and doesn't rub as its a lot cheaper than buying new.

 

it nothing to do with the tyres, there cool it was the wheel!!!! im running rota grids 9.5 all around offset of et 30, the back are fine but had to add and 5mm spacer for an offset of et25 thats the only thing.

its wet in London to day but still went down a took pics so here they are

 

oh i was too lazy to take pics of the other side due to there was a car there obstructing me lol

 

But i definitely think something is bent some where can you spot it? (i wont be able to tell properly till i take it to the ramp tomorrow.)

 

Spotting what's wrong will be quite difficult, really you need to be in that wheelarch with a measuring tape and comparing gaps and whatnot with the other side to see what is bent/stretched and what isn't.

 

Also those spacers will lift the spigot ring off the hub, and for Z's having hubcentric fitment, that's no good.

Is it me or in picture 5 does it look like the uptight has broken, from the bottom off the arm up about to about 3 inches above the bolt

Is it me or in picture 5 does it look like the uptight has broken, from the bottom off the arm up about to about 3 inches above the bolt

 

Either its rust or your right gonna double check tomorrow didnt see that thanks

Is it me or in picture 5 does it look like the uptight has broken, from the bottom off the arm up about to about 3 inches above the bolt

 

Had a closer look at the pic i think your right, it must be con caving/ wadding extra in and out on a left over piece of metal, i know it early but i looked around and its called a suspension knee member if im correct.(I couldn't sleep!)

 

got tension rods coming today need to find that part as well now !!! :D see if i can get it be for weekend.

 

Thanks DBnathan

p.s Hope fully there's not another problem!

 

it wasn't a crack /split ..... it was where it was welded originally.