All the sensors seem to be within range. Only oddities seem to be:

 

i) Right O2 sensor consistently gives slightly higher voltage reading than left at idle

 

ii) Whenever I accelarate hard the time drops to as low as 3 degrees. With normal accelaration it just gardually climbs

 

Could any of these be the cuase of the lower power

The ConZult (or any other ECU tool) will only report ignition timing relative to what it thinks is 15 deg BTDC. So if your ignition is set wrongly to start with then the ECU and eveything else will be confused. If you think it may be wrong then get it chcked with a timing light.

as Andy says, the conZult only shows what the ECU recieves from it's sensors.

You could set the CAS to 20BDTC, but the ECU will still think it's at 15BDTC, because it can not see the baseline the CAS has been set to.

Only way to see if the timing is really correct is by using a timing light (should be 15BDTC at idle, with engine warmed up)

 

other things to check:

-if O2 readings are extremely low during idle (0.01-0.05) it could indicate you have a vacuumleak somehwere.

-O2 readings should change in value very frequently during normal driving.

If one or both sensors don't change in value and sit steady at around 0.35V or the value changes very sluggish, you have a dead O2 sensor.

-Does the powerbalance test come out ok ?

 

-Eric

During the last visit to her "holday home" the timing was checked and found to have been improperly set by a certain company in the South East that we all know and love. This was properly reset to 15 degrees. She certainly ran better after that and I certainly trust the guy who checked it more (he was just toooo damn expensive to use for replacing a cylinder head which was when the timing belt was also replaced). So if we assume that the baseline is correctly set at 15 degrees then what does a value lower than this indicate when accelerating hard?

 

Both O2 readings were stuck at zero when cruising for quite a while after initial startup but suddenly seemed to come to life.

They were always active when accelerating

 

The left sensor is consistently livelier than the right sensor.

 

One oddity. WHnever I open the throttle from idle there is always a sound like very rapid opening/closing of a solenoid that lasts for a couple of seconds. It seems to come from the back of the enegine bay somwhere.

 

The power balance test seems fine most of the time although cylinder 1 has failed a couple of times. Probably the crap state of all my connectors although strangely those on cylinder 1 are the only ones still completely intact.

 

And one final question. When I do the PRVR solenoid test I get a click from a similar position to the one mentioned above. I thought that this solenoid was the one in front of the battery. What's going on (probably me being dumb)?

 

 

[This message has been edited by Posidrive (edited 09-08-2002).]

for those...or for the one

Maybe I'm completely missing the point here BUT.....

 

The ecu will advance/retard the timing of the engine. This is one of the things it controls!!! When you change the load on the engine the timing must be advanced/retarded in order for maximum power/efficiency to be achieved....

 

So ignore what the conZult is telling you regarding timing - this is not the cause!!!

 

RHS O2 giving consistently higher voltage??? Check the injector connectors on each bank and also the coilpack connectors...

 

HTH

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy