I am still having idle issue. If I unplug the MAS it idles at 1500 and when I adjust the AAS in (clockwise) it can be dropped to at least 1100 probably lower and idles fine. If I'm in the car with MAS on it will not idle at all and if I hold throttle will not hold smooth till over 1500 if I can get it there. It sound like a miss with the MAS on. With it disconnected its a smooth idle.

 

I measured the voltage of terminal B and it only shows up as .51 and I believe it should be .8v. As I'm unable to easily start the car anymore i checked voltage on crank and it maxes on .99v

 

Anyone near Basingstoke with a spare to test? Or a spare forsale.

 

Thanks

Anyone??? I replace it with an eBay unit and no difference but it could be my eBay one is no good.

 

It idles smoothly with no maf and revs to 2500 fine before limp mode. I'm stuck now......

 

Thanks

is the one from ebay a new one or second hand?

 

I got some new ones form China and they didn't work...

 

Can I assume you've done all the checking and cleaning of connectors, checked the TPS voltage, also checked the injectors and plugs.

 

sorry I'm not close enough to let you try mine...

The manual volt test= ~0.8V with ignition on (some people get

0.08V on theTechtom) and ~1.5V at idle. Check for smooth

increase in voltage as revs are increased. A faulty AFM will

often prevent the engine from revving over 2500RPM.

 

i have had a similar problem on a mates car and it turned out the MAF was faulty and wasnt allowing any realistic adjustment of the idle.

 

First check the TPS voltage with a multimeter, should be .44v

To adjust the idle, you need to unplug the yellow plug on top of the iacv first, adjust the idle screw to around 600rpm or as low as you can go before it dies, then plug the connector back onto the iacv, the ecu will then take over the revs to idle at 750rpm.

 

All this is easier done using consult or datascan as you can see the readings more accurately, ie percentage you are looking for for the iacv will be hit and miss without the software. If the air intake percentage is too high, there is nowhere left to go on WOT.

Cleaned the idle control valve and the extra one on the back. Although it was very clean.

 

Cleaned the connectors on all three.

 

Can't unplug my coils.... There sealed in. Obviously the clips are broken and they thought this was sensible.

 

TPS is spot on to the decimal place.

 

It turns over and if I stab at the throttle it will attempt to reve over 3k once above is ok for a sec then it drops and just will not idle. It hunts ALOT.

 

Remove the MAF and turn it over and it runs like a dream. (up to 2.5k)

 

Cleaned the ECT sensor. Only not done the PTU (old style)

 

Found out my knock is not working. Going to clear codes at weekend.

 

Anyone near me that I can try there MAF. I would be grateful as I'm on hols soon and need to send back eBay one if it is shot.

Right..... Update. Checked PTU connections. And they were corroded on one side but not dire. All cleaned and ran checks it passed them all but the no and yes where the opposite way round. Than the manual...

 

Any easy way to get the CAS connector off???? or is it radiator shroud off and cam covers off??

 

Both my new and old maf only register .5 v max with ignition on. I did warm up the car (maf off) and then plugged it in restarted with some revs and help it at 3k no issues. Voltage on maf 1.58. Dropped it to as low as I cook and got to about 1.18 before it would not hold and died.

 

If I remove the maf and the IAA connector it hunts a little but kinda idles. When I plug it in it does rise. And with AC on it rises a bit again. So I'm sure that is at least working.

 

I can't check plugs at the moment as coil packs connections a sealed in. Surely it would just idle rough if a plug was issued???

 

So either it is still the MAF. Or the only other thing on my mind is the timing belt has slipped a cog??? how do I confirm this easily??? or is it covers off?

 

Thanks in advanced... This car is becoming a chore........

LOL... yes... they are a chore.....

 

check the timing with a timing light.... should be 15 off tdc... (heaps of post about this)

 

good luck... if it looks like this not right them yes covers off.... but you might try adjusting the CAS fist...

Surely if it's slipped a cam cog the timing to TDC will still be 15????? orim I getting that wrong.

Ah, I wish I could confirm.... don't know for sure, you could be right, but it is a check you could do that is easy... and you would also be checking it anyway (with a timing light).

 

sorry, i can't remember, have you done a pressure test to make sure you don't have any breaks or leaks in the induction & vac lines?

. I have visually checked. But can't see any issues. The only guide to test I found was pumping air in using a plate. Is there another way????

not as far as i know...

 

there was talk somewhere of blowing smoke or wd40 around the engine when idling to see if it gets sucked anywhere but since there are so many pipes and lost of them are hidden I can't see that working...

 

you need to pump air into it and listen for any leaks.. that's the way i found my leak... big hole in one of the turbo pipes....

there is a guide for a rudimentary plug made out of a pop bottle...

 

http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.89

 

i made some plugs a while back and had some smoke matches to use with them... if you want one I can check to see if I have any left....

 

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t147/Handymad/DSCF0045.jpg[/img]"]

Hmmmm a hole in a turbo pipe shouldn't have an idle issue should it???

 

I take it that stopper is replacing the maf? Them pump it there.

 

Thanks

sorry, I can't confirm or deny that... may need input from others for that..........

 

yes it pops into the Y pipe... and you need an air pump.. at least electric and a gauge would be handy... no need to over pressurise... you could pop a hose. :)

Hmmmm a hole in a turbo pipe shouldn't have an idle issue should it???

 

I take it that stopper is replacing the maf? Them pump it there.

 

Thanks

 

Possibly, as the engine is receiving un metered air that is by passing the MAF sensor itself.

Therefore could be running lean.

Good point..... This is why I don't run a MAF anymore on my own car. Too many issues!!!!

 

It's clearly blowing somewhere by the turbo. Now i can get it to run for a bit and get under it.

 

I f I had spare pipes I would bypass the turbos and see if it idles.

mmmm, very tight.... down there............ lol...

 

only way I could see to do it was to take pipes off from the top... (battery out makes it easier on the passengers side)...

 

not too bad a job (as far as work on these cars goes) and really helps to inspect them... good luck..

Drivers side... And the entire engine bay is tight. No room for even my small hands.....

you have to take pipes off... I'd say that was the easier side to do.... :)

Im coming to basingstoke the first weekend of june for my mates birthday. I have a leak tester you could try?