July 7, 200223 yr Right I just spoke to my buddy at home and have results he carried out for me on the Intercoolers I had made. We tested a stock intercooler for temperature drop and one of my intercoolers in the same conditions at the same tests. We also tested a set of HKS intercoolers The car has an exhaust, intake, JWT chip running around 1 bar of boost. We tested them the following way. Driving at a constant 120kph or around 72mph motorway speed. We then tested them accelerating in third gear from around 50kph till 120kph We measured the inlet and outlet of the intercoolers. Stock Intercooler. 120KPH Inlet temperature 46degrees c Outlet temperature 41degrees c HKS Intercooler Inlet temperature 46degrees c Outlet temperature 38degrees c My Intercoolers Inlet temperature 46degrees c Outlet temperature 37degrees c Stock Intercooler. 3rd gear acceleration Inlet temperature 107degrees c Outlet temperature 61degrees c HKS Intercooler Inlet temperature 108degrees c Outlet temperature 41degrees c My Intercoolers Inlet temperature 108degrees c Outlet temperature 40degrees c So results were Average drop at motorway speed acceleration Stock Intercooler 5 degrees c 46 degrees c HKS intercooler 8 degrees c 67 degrees c My unit 8degrees c 68 degrees c So after this I can conclude that my intercoolers are an easy match for the HKS UNITS and far better than the stock units. You on average gain about 1bhp per degree cooler. These figures will of course vary according to altitude temperature cars mods ect, but is a good indication of how they work. Hope this helps you. ------------------ While my TURBO'S are Spooling V8'S are Drooling
July 9, 200223 yr Originally posted by Timmy_Turbo: "HOW DID YOU MEASURE THE INLET AND OUTLET TEMPERATURES?" Dunno, I use a thermocouple that plugs into my multimeter to measure mine. Originally posted by Timmy_Turbo: Jezz, someone I know on this board spent 2 hours being told how IC's work by a very qualified person in this science. As I said, more to just bolting them on and waaaaheeyyyy, 40 bhp a side instantly! I agree whole heartedly, just bunging an IC is NOT going to make much difference, as stated above, but it does allow safer tuning above std boost and a slight increase over std. After all if you want to stay std boost, why upgrade your IC's? Like sticking in a chip and not making use of the newly introduced/developed areas of the map. But nowhere does it say 40bhp/side extra does it or have i miss read? It does say there is roughly a 20deg Centi' difference then a rough 1bhp/degree estimation, giving 20bhp ish more, which is more than likely correct as if the boost is the same at 60deg and 40deg (which it will be), then there is obviously more air by mass for that same level of boost as the air is denser, and hence the ECU bungs in more fuel on each intake stroke. More power, which is never a bad thing, esp when you you got an S13 LOL. Before anyone jumps on my back taking the piss out of S13's don't, you'll look stupid. I could work it out (how much denser in a %age the air is per unit temp), but i really can't remmeber, or cannot be arsed to dig books out from 10 years ago; I got a HND in this shit you know. Ooops, too many squirels, mushrooms, lawn clippings etc. I'm sure there is no one who thinks bunging an IC is going to make a huge difference, it's just another expense that saves you more expense when you mod everything else. Some guy came on our board with a std car harping on about water injection, 'I've orderd this, I'm doing that' got the arse when people told him he was wasting his time untill he'd spent another 4K getting to a point where water would make the slightest difference. Most mods are there for protection, and those that scrimp on them end up finding out the hard way. Like me. I finally burnt some valves after running 250-260bhp (80-90bhp over std) with std zorst and cat for nearly a year, and until April on std UL!!. Thought I'd got away with it, but obviously not, ironic that it should show itself after I've been using Optimax for 3 months, apart from 2 long 180m fast 100mph runs on std UL. Too lazy to drive 10 miles for optimax back at my folks.
Right I just spoke to my buddy at home and have results he carried out for me on the Intercoolers I had made.
We tested a stock intercooler for temperature drop and one of my intercoolers in the same conditions at the same tests.
We also tested a set of HKS intercoolers
The car has an exhaust, intake, JWT chip running around 1 bar of boost.
We tested them the following way.
Driving at a constant 120kph or around 72mph motorway speed.
We then tested them accelerating in third gear from around 50kph till 120kph
We measured the inlet and outlet of the intercoolers.
Stock Intercooler.
120KPH
Inlet temperature 46degrees c
Outlet temperature 41degrees c
HKS Intercooler
Inlet temperature 46degrees c
Outlet temperature 38degrees c
My Intercoolers
Inlet temperature 46degrees c
Outlet temperature 37degrees c
Stock Intercooler.
3rd gear acceleration
Inlet temperature 107degrees c
Outlet temperature 61degrees c
HKS Intercooler
Inlet temperature 108degrees c
Outlet temperature 41degrees c
My Intercoolers
Inlet temperature 108degrees c
Outlet temperature 40degrees c
So results were Average drop at motorway speed acceleration
Stock Intercooler 5 degrees c 46 degrees c
HKS intercooler 8 degrees c 67 degrees c
My unit 8degrees c 68 degrees c
So after this I can conclude that my intercoolers are an easy match for the HKS UNITS and far better than the stock units.
You on average gain about 1bhp per degree cooler.
These figures will of course vary according to altitude temperature cars mods ect, but is a good indication of how they work.
Hope this helps you.
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While my TURBO'S are Spooling V8'S are Drooling