Hey,

 

Just got the z back from the test centre,

 

Shes Failed on a Few things:

 

001...front windscreen wipers not working-Cured this with new 15A fuse

 

002offside rear tyre-ive got one just needs fitting

 

Rear brake pads down to the metal-need some more goes without saying, prob why the handbrake dont work and the lights on

 

all front to rears brake pipes need changing as corroded-this is the biggy,dont know where to start with this one tbh

 

offside front body chassis has excessive corrosion-this is the other biggy, i dont have a welder or any scap bits of steal to sort this, testers marked it in chalk for me though.gonna have toring around see if i can get it welded cheap

 

and thats it!

 

im fairly happy with this actually, was expecting worse, the traking needs doin as its pulling to the right pretty bad, and all the wheels need balencing cos ive got a wobble, the LIGHTS light on the dash is on for some reason, expect its sumin to do with the wiring i did for the lights, and he said the emisions wernt great but i expect thats prob the JWT chip.

 

so....anyone anygood with the welder? lol or know where i can get it done fairly cheap and somepoint early this week....im hoping to make it to fridays meeting :D

 

 

Any help and Advice Really appreciated as Always,

thanks In Advance

 

 

Sam

Hey,

 

Just got the z back from the test centre,

 

Shes Failed on a Few things:

 

001...front windscreen wipers not working-Cured this with new 15A fuse

 

002offside rear tyre-ive got one just needs fitting

 

Rear brake pads down to the metal-need some more goes without saying, prob why the handbrake dont work and the lights on

 

all front to rears brake pipes need changing as corroded-this is the biggy,dont know where to start with this one tbh

 

offside front body chassis has excessive corrosion-this is the other biggy, i dont have a welder or any scap bits of steal to sort this, testers marked it in chalk for me though.gonna have toring around see if i can get it welded cheap

 

and thats it!

 

im fairly happy with this actually, was expecting worse, the traking needs doin as its pulling to the right pretty bad, and all the wheels need balencing cos ive got a wobble, the LIGHTS light on the dash is on for some reason, expect its sumin to do with the wiring i did for the lights, and he said the emisions wernt great but i expect thats prob the JWT chip.

 

so....anyone anygood with the welder? lol or know where i can get it done fairly cheap and somepoint early this week....im hoping to make it to fridays meeting :D

 

 

Any help and Advice Really appreciated as Always,

thanks In Advance

 

 

Sam

OH, and if anyone knows or has a diagram of the fuse box next to throttle peddle, i need to know what fuses are missing and what they do and what Ampage they sposed to be.

 

 

Thanks Again

OH, and if anyone knows or has a diagram of the fuse box next to throttle peddle, i need to know what fuses are missing and what they do and what Ampage they sposed to be.

 

 

Thanks Again

Hey,

 

Rear brake pads down to the metal-need some more goes without saying, prob why the handbrake dont work and the lights on

 

Handbrake and Rear pads are differnet systems. The Handbrake uses a Drum and shoe setup - So for the handbrake your looking at either adjustment, worn shoes or glazed drums.

all front to rears brake pipes need changing as corroded-this is the biggy,dont know where to start with this one tbh

How bad are they? Did he say they need replacing or can they be cleaned up and painted?

 

If replacing then to do the job yourself then its cheap, but labour intensive. You need to drop the rear subframe really to replace the pipes. You can get a roll brake pipeing, the ends, and a flaring tool fairly cheap though and just make up the new pipes yourself and route into place.

 

Expensive if you get somebody else to do, becuase of the labour involved.

offside front body chassis has excessive corrosion-this is the other biggy, i dont have a welder or any scap bits of steal to sort this, testers marked it in chalk for me though.gonna have toring around see if i can get it welded cheap

You'll need to have a good look at this, to check its not rotting from the inside out. If it is there are 3 layers involved in parts of the rear sills. If you replace any of the sill then make sure you seam weld it rather than spot weld. They are spot welded from factory but need to be seam welded for mot regulations when redone.

Edited February 4, 201213 yr by Yowser

Hey,

 

Rear brake pads down to the metal-need some more goes without saying, prob why the handbrake dont work and the lights on

 

Handbrake and Rear pads are differnet systems. The Handbrake uses a Drum and shoe setup - So for the handbrake your looking at either adjustment, worn shoes or glazed drums.

all front to rears brake pipes need changing as corroded-this is the biggy,dont know where to start with this one tbh

How bad are they? Did he say they need replacing or can they be cleaned up and painted?

 

If replacing then to do the job yourself then its cheap, but labour intensive. You need to drop the rear subframe really to replace the pipes. You can get a roll brake pipeing, the ends, and a flaring tool fairly cheap though and just make up the new pipes yourself and route into place.

 

Expensive if you get somebody else to do, becuase of the labour involved.

offside front body chassis has excessive corrosion-this is the other biggy, i dont have a welder or any scap bits of steal to sort this, testers marked it in chalk for me though.gonna have toring around see if i can get it welded cheap

You'll need to have a good look at this, to check its not rotting from the inside out. If it is there are 3 layers involved in parts of the rear sills. If you replace any of the sill then make sure you seam weld it rather than spot weld. They are spot welded from factory but need to be seam welded for mot regulations when redone.

Edited February 4, 201213 yr by Yowser

OH, and if anyone knows or has a diagram of the fuse box next to throttle peddle, i need to know what fuses are missing and what they do and what Ampage they sposed to be.

 

 

Thanks Again

 

OH, and if anyone knows or has a diagram of the fuse box next to throttle peddle, i need to know what fuses are missing and what they do and what Ampage they sposed to be.

 

 

Thanks Again

 

hmm.... didnt expect to have to drop the rear frame..sounds hell of a job, what exactly is involved?

 

the handbrake, im thinking it the type wear the drum is inside the disk so to speak? im sure i can change the pads, mite be worth having a look at the handbrake too.

 

The welding- vodkashots tells me the cars had a stint at the isle of white and he had rust issues with it too, ill see if i can jack it up and have a good poke around, see the extent of it, im hoping its not too bad but it does say seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings

 

 

 

thanks yowser :thumbup:

hmm.... didnt expect to have to drop the rear frame..sounds hell of a job, what exactly is involved?

 

the handbrake, im thinking it the type wear the drum is inside the disk so to speak? im sure i can change the pads, mite be worth having a look at the handbrake too.

 

The welding- vodkashots tells me the cars had a stint at the isle of white and he had rust issues with it too, ill see if i can jack it up and have a good poke around, see the extent of it, im hoping its not too bad but it does say seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings

 

 

 

thanks yowser :thumbup:

Managed to get away with my front break pipes,

but had to do the rear unfortunately.

I am not saying it is not possible with the sub frame in,

but I did feel I needed to remove mine just for ease of access alone,

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=15465&page=38

Managed to get away with my front break pipes,

but had to do the rear unfortunately.

I am not saying it is not possible with the sub frame in,

but I did feel I needed to remove mine just for ease of access alone,

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=15465&page=38

omg :jawdrop:

 

looks like a couple days work then. wudnt be so bad bt im desperate to get it done just only got a pebble drive to do it and limited tools . still....where theres will theres a way lol

omg :jawdrop:

 

looks like a couple days work then. wudnt be so bad bt im desperate to get it done just only got a pebble drive to do it and limited tools . still....where theres will theres a way lol

Give me a ring tomorrow Sam

Give me a ring tomorrow Sam

ok mate...

 

Will Do :thumbup:

ok mate...

 

Will Do :thumbup:

Give me a ring tomorrow Sam

 

you know keith, i could feel that cumming before i saw your post lol :-) proper gent lol

Give me a ring tomorrow Sam

 

you know keith, i could feel that cumming before i saw your post lol :-) proper gent lol

you know keith, i could feel that cumming before i saw your post lol :-) proper gent lol

 

Cheers Rob

 

I'm sure we can sort something out, got parts sprouting out from everywhere lol

 

are your wheels 19", i will check my changer on Monday not sure if it takes 19's if it does we can change that easy enough

 

Weldings no problem but it will be late night job:sleep1:

 

Brake pipes, I need to look at them again to jog my memory

 

Pads,well as I said plenty of bits

you know keith, i could feel that cumming before i saw your post lol :-) proper gent lol

 

Cheers Rob

 

I'm sure we can sort something out, got parts sprouting out from everywhere lol

 

are your wheels 19", i will check my changer on Monday not sure if it takes 19's if it does we can change that easy enough

 

Weldings no problem but it will be late night job:sleep1:

 

Brake pipes, I need to look at them again to jog my memory

 

Pads,well as I said plenty of bits

its a shame you lived so far away as ihave a welder and could have helped out

its a shame you lived so far away as ihave a welder and could have helped out

Rear brake pipes can be a pain, tip though, no need to remove the subframe just remove the diff, picuture below of one we done some time ago shows the access with the diff removed, neatness is the key, the original fixings need to be reused so the tester can see they are all secure.

 

Jeff TT

 

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Rear brake pipes can be a pain, tip though, no need to remove the subframe just remove the diff, picuture below of one we done some time ago shows the access with the diff removed, neatness is the key, the original fixings need to be reused so the tester can see they are all secure.

 

Jeff TT

 

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