Well think this should explain my over heating problem

 

 

 

 

And......

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

to say the radiator was blocked is an understatement, about 3 channels halfway up and 5 at the top were available to get the water through, what gave it away was what A2zed (member of the Aus300zx site) mentioned that the bottom hose will collapse on its self if there is flow restriction, which it did when i got it to start over heating earlier (yes i know inducing over heating for the purpose of testing lol)

 

So out came the old rad that sprang a leak, i was lucky that the leak was due to the clip system on the side that holds the oil coolers for the autobox, 2 had pride them selves off the casing, so i eased them back into position with a hammer and chisel, refitted everything. refilled the system checked for the rad leak which was now none existent, seems there is still a slight air pocket in there, but going to bleed it again tomorrow and im so glad i didn't throw the old rad out.

 

Temp stayed at 84 degrees, crept up to 88, been as high as 89, but when giving it a bit of boost and driving it above 50, it actually cools down to 82 degrees now, and i have hot air that doesnt fluctuate :) and when pulled up she settles to 84.

 

88 and 89 temp achieved when idling for a prolonged period with the heater off? so i still think there is a trapped air bubble in there somewhere so will re bleed the system tomorrow.

 

Will still need a new rad as i don't trust the one i put on (due to old leak), just did it to see if it was indeed a rad problem, got a bit worried when i stripped the old one down on one side and saw it looked clean as a whistle, until i stripped the other side out. couldn't even see through most of the cores.

 

will be keeping an eye on it for now though to make certain. have to admit though, its the coolest my engine has smelt in a while.

 

You wouldnt believe the size of that pile of crap in the photo, the photo makes it look small, also trapped in the channels that id removed before taking the photo were old bits of orange sealent used by nissan to seal the waterpump and water pipes to the block

Edited December 1, 201114 yr by vodkashots

It looks like it was filled with radweld at some point in its past. think mine might be like that to.

Want me to bring the spare standard auto rad to ZedWorld on Saturday now then? :D Glad to see you're getting somewhere with it bud.

Want me to bring the spare standard auto rad to ZedWorld on Saturday now then? :D Glad to see you're getting somewhere with it bud.

 

not sure i want to risk bringing it that distance just yet, need more testing first to see if it is indeed stable.

 

Think im going to be paranoid about it for about 3 months even when sorted.

 

It looks like it was filled with radweld at some point in its past. think mine might be like that to.

 

thats not rad weld, its rust build up from a 20 year old radiator, its more a clay type substance that once dry will go powdery.

Awesome mate glad the problem has been found. Good job you closed that stupid for sale thread eh LOL.

Whoop, thank god you didnt sell over that

not going to get too excited just yet, as i said need to do more testing first to make sure. dont want to jinks the bloody thing.

Did you crap yourself when you saw the rad :D

Only joking, my car has the exact same thing. But i dont have any problems, yet!

I keep looking on ebay for new rads but im too tight to buy one

Did you crap yourself when you saw the rad :D

Only joking, my car has the exact same thing. But i dont have any problems, yet!

I keep looking on ebay for new rads but im too tight to buy one

 

im just going to get a uprated rad with larger cores i think when things improve, more room to allow particals through instead of it getting clogged up. plus the added benifit of it allowing more water to be shifted.

Told ya matey. lol Glad you found the the fault, once you've bled all the air out I think it'll be fine.

Did you run it for a period with the heater turned on inside the car? You may have an air pocket in the heater matrix if not?

Did you run it for a period with the heater turned on inside the car? You may have an air pocket in the heater matrix if not?

 

Yep full pelt with temp at 40 while bleeding it. but was in a slight rush as needed to get my daughter from school. though the air doesnt randomly go from hot to cold any more, but still feel there may be air in the system still.

 

So going to bleed it properly tomorrow and take my time.

Im not with my Zed at the moment and not that familiar with it yet but what the highest point of the system? Is there a overflow pipe to a header tank?

Im not with my Zed at the moment and not that familiar with it yet but what the highest point of the system? Is there a overflow pipe to a header tank?

 

The rad cap is the highest point. There is an overflow to a expansion tank just under the cap going down to behind the passenger side IC where the tank is.

no header tank bud tahst why teh car must be bleed front end up in teh air, when i did mine i bled it on axel stabnds on teh front then drove round teh corner front end u hill to get out the last bits. the over flow on a zed goes to an expansion bottle down in the front passenger wing.

the cap seals correctly on the old radiator as well (The one ive just put back on), i have a feeling that due to the lower hose collapsing as the water tried to be sucked through the rad, it was instead drawing air into the system via the pipes, while pushing the water out through the overflow into the expansion tank, then when the car was cooling down, it would suck the coolent back into the radiator like the system was supposed to do anyway. thats why i wasnt loosing coolent yet couldnt get any more in, YET still had a air issue (cold air when the engine was up to temp when it should of been blowing hot air) so it was on a constant cycle

feck sake, thermostat failed again.....

 

:crying: this thing is doing my fecking head in.

How do you know the thermostat failed dude?

How do you know the thermostat failed dude?

 

simple, top water pipe boiling hot, bottom hardpipe stone cold, heater matrix pipes cold. no flow through the thermostat, exactly the same as what happened when it failed the first time.

 

cars going to have to be off the road now till i decide what best to do with it.

 

at least the top of the radiator is now getting warm like it should of done, but no flow through it due to failed thermostat.

http://z32.wikispaces.com/Cooling+System gives the best description at the moment, overheating regardless of condition.

 

when the thermostat opens, the flow through the rad would be sufficient to cool the system on idle. as its not opening, its overheating straight away now.

Yeah, sounds like your induced over-heating for testing purposes may have buggered it mate :( As I said before, extreme temps in either direction can **** up a stat, I've had it happen to me too. They're cheap enough from MJP though? Just get another one in there. You've sorted the blocked rad issue, unless of course this one's now blocked as well :confused1:. I'd get another stat from MJP, get it fitted and you'll probably be fine. I know how upsetting it is to go through all this *****cks though, we went through it with the grey one, then the yellow one, not to mention all the other cars I've had the problem with. I mentioned the XJS V12 before right? Changed all 4 stats and was still overheating, replaced the rad and problem solved. Had a similar problem to the one you're having now with an old Capri too, induced over-heating for testing, and broke my stat :(

by the looks of it the thermostat is just taking way to long to open now. doubt the new rad is blocked, i gave it a good clean out before fitting it as it was nice and dry so the debris that was already inside it was very fine powdery, and just fell out with a few taps.

 

i was trying to bleed the system fully today as i knew it needed it, temp held well yesterday even on a nice blitz down the duel carriageway and when i got home.

 

always typical bloody timing with the zed when things go wrong, no matter what one ive had.

 

Fixed a power steering pipe leak on my red one, and while bleeding the Power steering pot, it sprang a water leak at the water pump, completely unrelated to anything to do with the power steering pump.

Mate I feel for you I had all this when I was backpacking around New Zealand, ended up replacing pretty much everything. Are you going to Zedworld tomorrow? If so you could see if Jeff has one you can buy then pop it in when you get back?

Mate I feel for you I had all this when I was backpacking around New Zealand, ended up replacing pretty much everything. Are you going to Zedworld tomorrow? If so you could see if Jeff has one you can buy then pop it in when you get back?

 

got no way of getting there matey. not with the car overheating still due to a fooked thermostat, not going to be able to sort anything out until next week anyway now.

 

well gutted.

Vody .. i just tuck mine out all together .. works fine and gets hot with in min's as normal

Vody .. i just tuck mine out all together .. works fine and gets hot with in min's as normal

 

wouldn't there be detrimental effects too that? though i suppose i could just remove it for now until next week when i can replace it for a new one.

 

by the way, when i say i over heated the car, it never got any hotter than 100 degrees before turning the engine off. just to clarify that.

 

no way would i let it climb higher than 106.