I'm in the middle of prepping my zed for a professional spray job. I'm doing all the prep myself, except one dent I can't fix, to save some money.

 

The problem I've got is knowing when to stop..lol Should I just sand and fill the little dings etc, then primer on the repair. The rest of the bodywork will get a key/sanding for the fresh paint. OR should I do all the above and primer the whole car (primer will be a decent rattle can quality). I would then flat it all back ready for paint.

 

The main dent is on the pass side rear quarter and will need to be repaired by the body shop that does the paint job, it's far beyond my abilities to fix :( So I won't be touching that part of the car.

 

Also, have I missed anything that would need to be removed for an external paint job.

 

So far I'm thinking;

Rear Lights

Rear bumper markers

side indicators

Roof trim (was going to leave windscreen sides on as they can be masked)

Targa roof seals

front indicators/sidelights (fogs will be ducts)

 

I'm not sure on the door handles, they need a paint but do I leave them on the door or take them off?

Mirrors will be colour coded so leaving them on.

 

Finally, I've got an unpainted 99 spec spoiler to go on. I will be fitting it before the paint but do I bond it into place first OR leave it unattached to make the painting easier?

 

I've never prepped a car for painting so any tips or advice you have would be great.

 

Cheers

Steams

leave the 99spec spoiler off get the body shop to spray it and then attach it to the car, if you bond it onto the car they will have a hard job getting the underside and around the legs of it, also will make spraying the boot lid harder with out paint run as you have to have the gun at a set distance to get a smooth finish.

 

Remove the door handles so they can be sprayed properly other wise your going to rub the spray off them when opening the door if done incorrectly.

 

remove your front wheel arch liners to make it easier for them to mask off, id also remove the windscreen cowl, and although they can mask the window weather strips it will be a neater job if they are removed (leave the top one though as it will never come off so you can refit it again and its expensive to replace from nissan)

 

Remove your kick panels as well if they are going to be doing the door surround metal work. remove door cards and anything associated with that, basically depends how much your getting sprayed.

Find out what type of paint the bodyshop will be using, if they use 2k for example, then all your rattle can efforts will have to be sanded away or it will react with the paint.

 

There is alot of prep compared to the actual spraying, so flat back as much of the car as you can, which will save time in the bodyshop, but they will degrease and mask all the panels, which can take a few hours, but decide how much the rattle cans are going to cost in comparison to the body shop priming it.

 

For example i spent around £80 on primer in rattle cans last year, ended up having to rub it all down again as my sprayer is shooting 2k paint.

I bought 3litres of 2k high build primer for half the cost of rattle cans and will have a better finish and will be compatible with the base coat going on.

 

So ask the bodyshop first, the best way for you to proceed to compliment what they will have to work with to finish her off.

leave the 99spec spoiler off get the body shop to spray it and then attach it to the car, if you bond it onto the car they will have a hard job getting the underside and around the legs of it, also will make spraying the boot lid harder with out paint run as you have to have the gun at a set distance to get a smooth finish.

 

Remove the door handles so they can be sprayed properly other wise your going to rub the spray off them when opening the door if done incorrectly.

 

remove your front wheel arch liners to make it easier for them to mask off, id also remove the windscreen cowl, and although they can mask the window weather strips it will be a neater job if they are removed (leave the top one though as it will never come off so you can refit it again and its expensive to replace from nissan)

 

Remove your kick panels as well if they are going to be doing the door surround metal work. remove door cards and anything associated with that, basically depends how much your getting sprayed.

 

I'm just getting the outside and targa slots done mate.

 

Find out what type of paint the bodyshop will be using, if they use 2k for example, then all your rattle can efforts will have to be sanded away or it will react with the paint.

 

There is alot of prep compared to the actual spraying, so flat back as much of the car as you can, which will save time in the bodyshop, but they will degrease and mask all the panels, which can take a few hours, but decide how much the rattle cans are going to cost in comparison to the body shop priming it.

 

For example i spent around £80 on primer in rattle cans last year, ended up having to rub it all down again as my sprayer is shooting 2k paint.

I bought 3litres of 2k high build primer for half the cost of rattle cans and will have a better finish and will be compatible with the base coat going on.

 

So ask the bodyshop first, the best way for you to proceed to compliment what they will have to work with to finish her off.

 

 

that's a bloody good point Groover, I haven't got a body shop yet but I was wanting the paint to be 2k. Is it possible to spray the car with a barrier coat to stop the rattle's messing with the 2k?

 

I've got a modest compressor that is fine for spraying, so should I just buy some 2k high fill primer and do it that way?

I'm just getting the outside and targa slots done mate.

 

 

 

 

that's a bloody good point Groover, I haven't got a body shop yet but I was wanting the paint to be 2k. Is it possible to spray the car with a barrier coat to stop the rattle's messing with the 2k?

 

I've got a modest compressor that is fine for spraying, so should I just buy some 2k high fill primer and do it that way?

 

what color are you going? as it might look a bit silly if the targa slots are done but the door slots are not as you will have a point where with the roof off your only going to be separating that slot with a bit of roof rubber.

what color are you going? as it might look a bit silly if the targa slots are done but the door slots are not as you will have a point where with the roof off your only going to be separating that slot with a bit of roof rubber.

 

It's only going from GL1 black to KH3 black so won't really notice the doors.

If you have a compressor mate, it will be far more cost effective to go the 2k high build primer route. I used a clear sealer (barcoat) type but better to seal the poly bumpers as i was having some cracking effect in the previous paint, where it reacted.

Have sealed the bumper and sprayed the 2k primer and has settled well.

The sealer also has to be 2k, so would more than likely still react with the rattle can, but if you add more hardner to the sealer it will dry quicker, hopefully before the reaction starts, but i would stick the 2k route from the get go, for the best results.

 

I bought a proper particulate mask for about £15 specifically for use with 2k paints, but airfed would be ideal, but as long as you are in a well ventilated area it will be fine.

The paint is harmless, its the hardner that has the isocyantes in it, which is the dangerous part of the chemical make up. As a one off job you will be fine, wear a suit with hood, goggles and mask and all good.

 

You will be surprised at how good the coverage and toughness of the primer is when its dry and being as it needs flatting anyway, the primer stage is more forgiving if you get runs or spats.

 

The 2k high build is very thick compared to the basecoat and the recommended mixing ration is 4:1 +10-15% thinners. I found 2:1 with the thinners better, with the compressor and gun im using. HTH

If you have a compressor mate, it will be far more cost effective to go the 2k high build primer route. I used a clear sealer (barcoat) type but better to seal the poly bumpers as i was having some cracking effect in the previous paint, where it reacted.

Have sealed the bumper and sprayed the 2k primer and has settled well.

The sealer also has to be 2k, so would more than likely still react with the rattle can, but if you add more hardner to the sealer it will dry quicker, hopefully before the reaction starts, but i would stick the 2k route from the get go, for the best results.

 

I bought a proper particulate mask for about £15 specifically for use with 2k paints, but airfed would be ideal, but as long as you are in a well ventilated area it will be fine.

The paint is harmless, its the hardner that has the isocyantes in it, which is the dangerous part of the chemical make up. As a one off job you will be fine, wear a suit with hood, goggles and mask and all good.

 

You will be surprised at how good the coverage and toughness of the primer is when its dry and being as it needs flatting anyway, the primer stage is more forgiving if you get runs or spats.

 

The 2k high build is very thick compared to the basecoat and the recommended mixing ration is 4:1 +10-15% thinners. I found 2:1 with the thinners better, with the compressor and gun im using. HTH

 

 

Cheers mate that really helpful. Unfortunatley the car would have to be sprayed outside :(

 

How much did it cost you for the base, HB primer and thinners mate?

I'm not sure if its much use to you but this was my respray thread:

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=137119

 

Basically I took the car to bits on my drive and worked with a couple of friends to prep and paint it over a couple of days.

Thinners from my local paint supplies is about £5 a litre, white high build i bought as a kit incl hardner for about £28, but you can get them as litre seperates fairly cheaply compared to rattles.

If you are doing it outside, i would suggest getting yourself a cheap gazebo to help protect as you paint. The paint is a little smelly, but try not to piss the neighnours off lol and if they ask its not 2k :nuke:

If you are staying the same colour, you dont need to prime the whole car, just the repair areas and dont use white primer lol, go for a grey/darker primer.

I only used white primer as its the best colour to use for a yellow basecoat.

Groover has pretty much got it covered, the only thing I would add is consider if laying your own primer would affect any warranty that whatever paint shop you go with might supply.

 

If it starts to flake after a few months, you could be in trouble. At the very least, find your shop, speak with the painter, and come to an agreement on the best course of action before you do it.

Thanks for all the help folks. I'll have a word with the body shop (when I find one) and see what the recommend.

 

What other paint options are there other than 2K? and what are the pro's and cons?

as said above

 

you are far better getting a 2k primer on there, i would guess that (its not meant to be an insult) that your prep would not be up to the standard where they would be able to just blow the top coat over, particually with a black.

 

strictly speaking a body shop is not allowed to spray 2k anymore (they are alowed a small amount every year)

 

modern paint systems are water based and require skilled opperators and top gear.

 

im just doing my car, back to bare metal but all myself with 2k.

 

take off as much trim etc as possible, the results will be much better, also perhaps in the case of the door you would be better off getting a replacement. there must be loads going for next to nothing. ive got two mint doors just kicking around no real demand for them when breaking a car.

 

pete

cellulose, water based, 2pack, urethane, polyester based etc the most common are the first 3 but all but 2pack would need a lacquer top coat for sealing and protection