Gents i have had my car tracked and 4 wheel aligned countless times from the same garage and its always spot on :confused1:

 

but im getting serious tyre wear on the inner edges of the front tyres

 

im using continental sport contact3 225/45/18 and there is at least 6mm across the whole tyre exept for the inner edges looks very worn not far to go till i hit the canvass?

 

what can it be? the tracking is within spec & the camber is also within spec

 

the bottom arm is polly bushed

 

but i get serious judderring when breaking this is down to the top camber arms im sure, is this that is causing the tyre wear, and why if the camber arms are worn is it not throwing the alignment out???

 

please can someone shed some light here im fed up of changing countless tyres, the last set went with 5mm across the whole tread except the very inner edges worn through to the canvass :crying::crying:

 

any help greatly appreceated

Traction control arms? if there is play in them that causes juddering under breaking, may also cause moe toe than you want!

isnt this caused by a worn bush?

Gents i have had my car tracked and 4 wheel aligned countless times from the same garage and its always spot on :confused1:

 

but im getting serious tyre wear on the inner edges of the front tyres

 

im using continental sport contact3 225/45/18 and there is at least 6mm across the whole tyre exept for the inner edges looks very worn not far to go till i hit the canvass?

 

what can it be? the tracking is within spec & the camber is also within spec

 

the bottom arm is polly bushed

 

but i get serious judderring when breaking this is down to the top camber arms im sure, is this that is causing the tyre wear, and why if the camber arms are worn is it not throwing the alignment out???

 

please can someone shed some light here im fed up of changing countless tyres, the last set went with 5mm across the whole tread except the very inner edges worn through to the canvass :crying::crying:

 

any help greatly appreceated

 

Id say get another garage to check tracking and the problem you have is usually sagging front springs causing a lot of negative camber.A proper check should prove this.

Top camber arms I think there called there in a H shape with 4 bushes I can get a bit of movement in there with s crow bar I suspect why I'm getting the judder but is this the reason for the redicious tyre wear?

Id say get another garage to check tracking and the problem you have is usually sagging front springs causing a lot of negative camber.A proper check should prove this.

 

I have had the camber checked and its ok, it is a 1990 UK stock suspension if it had sagging springs wouldn't this show when doing the camber check?

have you got a printout you can scan?

have you got a printout you can scan?

 

No printout I'm afraid it was just a bog standard tyre depot, with a laser alignment 4 wheel tool, they just rest on the tyres and read off the laser marks, the camber is done by spirit level Iirc :confused1:

No printout I'm afraid it was just a bog standard tyre depot, with a laser alignment 4 wheel tool, they just rest on the tyres and read off the laser marks, the camber is done by spirit level Iirc :confused1:

 

I would have it checked again with somewhere that has a computerised alignment system so they can give you a printout.

 

Just saying - "everything is in spec" is easy to do!!

 

A printout with all the readings is much better & you can see exactly what is going on.

 

To be honest most zeds that have not got adjustable arms will probably be out of spec LOL so would be wary of what they are telling you

Also an old spirit level type camber gauge is pretty much what Noah used to align the keel on his ark - not overly accurate!!

 

perhaps their bubble has not been calibrated in a while!! :D

No printout I'm afraid it was just a bog standard tyre depot, with a laser alignment 4 wheel tool, they just rest on the tyres and read off the laser marks, the camber is done by spirit level Iirc :confused1:

That'll be why the camber's not right. Take it to a place which has a proper machine and gives a printout. Here's the spec. More details in the online manual http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi in the Front Axle section.

 

Wrong camber means you get uneven tyre wear on inside or outside edge. If you're getting inside edge excess wear, that is a sign of camber not being right. Ask Pirelli and Red Bull hohoho.

perhaps their bubble has not been calibrated in a while!! :D

 

:lol: And don't forget if you're going to fill your tyes with nitrogen, you'll need a nitrogen bubble for correct calibration. :tongue_smilie:

camber wont cause that much tyre wear in a short period of time toe however will, my bet is still on TC Bushes they often get overlooked and cause tyre wear and juddering under breaking

camber wont cause that much tyre wear in a short period of time toe however will, my bet is still on TC Bushes they often get overlooked and cause tyre wear and juddering under breaking

 

Traction control arm bushes? Thought we were talking about the front suspension? Or do you mean tension rod bushes? Sorry if I seem pedantic..

 

My advice would be to take it to someone who knows what the fook they're on about. Also, if you know there is play in the suspension, get it fixed - otherwise its completely pointless (as mentioned before).

 

Failing all else, drive the car like you're trying to kill it. If it has got high camber, driving more aggressively will keep the tyre flat while cornering as this is the whole point of adding extra camber. It isn't really helpful on the motorway!

camber wont cause that much tyre wear in a short period of time toe however will, my bet is still on TC Bushes they often get overlooked and cause tyre wear and juddering under breaking

 

 

Tc bushes which one is that matey, I have polybushed the bottom tension ARM also polybushed the bottom wishbone ARM, I had to press out the bush from the wishbone and press in the new bushes

sorry meant tension arm, if you have polybused that then chances are it wont be that, which would prob mean your wobble under braking is a different problem, its not that the place you go is just a bit poo is it? I had the same issue as you and it was my tenssion arm on my r32

just been undearneath now for a quick look

now then the o/s top link or camber arm i can move with a crow bar, this would explain the judder under braking also the bottom ball joint im able to move it up and down but not that much movement sise to side

 

the n/s well glad i checked, where the tension arm bolts through the bottom wishbone arm the steel has begun to tear and crack, where the tension arm bolts through ( two bolts) not much play at all in the ball joint though could these be the cause of the tyre wear or should i be looking at something else also?

so im thinking of replacing the springs with new ones, having the adjustable top camber arms also, but do i need the adjustable tension arm or can i carry on using my poly bushed ones?

If you can feel any play or see any worn bushes or suspension components, then replacing them should be top of your priorities. I had a worn upper link and it made the car handle like a pig. But it never had chance to affect the tyre wear. If you are in any doubt, take it to Jeff at Zedworld and ask him to use some good quality breaker parts to refresh any tired parts you have. It will not cost too much that way. It will make a huge difference to the handling and tyre wear though.

Edited September 5, 201114 yr by leo-r32gts
see below!

so im thinking of replacing the springs with new ones, having the adjustable top camber arms also, but do i need the adjustable tension arm or can i carry on using my poly bushed ones?

 

you NEED adjustable tension rods with upper adjustable camber arms.

 

The upper arms will have roller bearings - normal bushed tension rods will allow lateral movement on the bearings (not a good thing!)

 

also the poly bushes are almost certainly the cause of failure of the lower arms - the lack of flexibility in an rotational direction cause the metal of the lower arm to flex & fracture - a well known issue on the Z32 with polybushed tension rods - get rid of them now LOL!!

 

the adjustable tension rods allow caster to be adjusted

 

:)