Hi all,

As per thread title, my door-open warning light on the dash is constantly on. I've checked the door and tailgate switches and they are all working ok.

 

However, the interior light relay is warm to the touch and my battery discharged itself fully a few days ago - connection? :confused1:

 

To me, it points towards a replacement relay required - any thoughts?

 

Cheers - Andy

i would of thought so too ...

if u have checked switchs thats the next thing in line

 

mark

How did you check the tailgate switch?

smithy

How did you check the tailgate switch?

smithy

 

I've just renewed the boot/fuel release cable and thought that maybe I'd left off the electrical wire, I had connected it - so then checked that the sprung lever was actually clearing the latch assembly and it was....was that correct?

well on mine it was the boot/tailgate and by loosening the 3 bolts on the boot and moving slighly downwards so the boot shut tighter, it worked.

The bolts however didn't retighten so had to use a couple fresh ones as the thread was worn.

If it is the tailgate, the boot light should be on eh?

smithy

well on mine it was the boot/tailgate and by loosening the 3 bolts on the boot and moving slighly downwards so the boot shut tighter, it worked.

The bolts however didn't retighten so had to use a couple fresh ones as the thread was worn.

If it is the tailgate, the boot light should be on eh?

smithy

 

:oops: I disconnected the boot light ages ago 'cos I flattened the battery a few times by not shutting the tailgate properly.

 

Think I'll just nip out to the garage and reconnect it now.......doh!

Lol yup, then with all dorrs closed look inside boot from inside car, hey presto you know 1 way or another!

smithy

Reconnected the boot lamp and that's working ok :whistling:

 

Sooo, I guess that the relay's packed in.

For the relay to be warm it means the coil is energised which in turn means that either one of the door switches is triggering it, remove the fixing screw on each door switch and relay should de-energises, if it does then see which switch it is and go from there.

 

If the relay is still energised then its likely one of the cables is earthed, this can be caused by a trapped cable but a very common cause is alarms been connected to the door cables to trigger when armed, a back feed causes the problem.

 

Jeff TT

For the relay to be warm it means the coil is energised which in turn means that either one of the door switches is triggering it, remove the fixing screw on each door switch and relay should de-energises, if it does then see which switch it is and go from there.

 

If the relay is still energised then its likely one of the cables is earthed, this can be caused by a trapped cable but a very common cause is alarms been connected to the door cables to trigger when armed, a back feed causes the problem.

 

Jeff TT

 

Jeff, even with both door switch screws removed, the relay is still warm/energising -why should this problem suddenly appear, could it be the relay that is failing? No work has been carried out on the alarm system (Meta), since I've had the car (3 years).

 

Cheers - Andy

The relay been warm suggest the coil is energised as I mentioned, so basically the relay is working, if it was stuck in it would not be warm as the current passing through the contacts would not cause any heat, in contrast the coil that operates the relay will get warm.

 

It sounds like an earth short triggering the relay, the alarm could be the culprit, check to see if a bonnet pin is fitted, this could be badly adjusted or shorted.

 

If there is no bonnet pin or its ok remove the sill plastic strips and flip the carpets back a little, by following the cable from the door switch you will be able to see any alarm connections, just disconnect them for testing.

 

Jeff TT

Many thanks Jeff, I'll have another look at it tomorrow.

 

Andy

If there is no bonnet pin or its ok remove the sill plastic strips and flip the carpets back a little, by following the cable from the door switch you will be able to see any alarm connections, just disconnect them for testing.

 

Jeff TT

 

Spot on Jeff :bow:

 

The interior light wire had become trapped around the seat belt bolt, which I had removed to fit my replacement boot/fuel release cable. The insulation was torn apart and it had also pulled out the green wire from the back of the door switch connector.

 

The cable has now been re-routed and insulating tape applied to the damaged area, dash light now works properly :biggrin:

 

Why though, does my Meta alarm still chirp three times (indicating an open door)?

 

Many thanks Jeff

 

Andy

Spot on Jeff :bow:Why though, does my Meta alarm still chirp three times (indicating an open door)?

 

Many thanks Jeff

 

Andy

 

Has it always done this or is it a new thing? reason I ask is the typical circuit for an interior light is very basic and just runs to the light.

 

Nissan on the other hand used a switching relay which is a bit over the top to be honest, however when connecting the alarm to this trigger input the alarm can sometime sense the feedback through the relay coil windings and will think the door is open.

 

Get back to those door switch cables and remove for testing any additional cables connected to them, Keep us informed how you get on bud

 

 

Jeff TT