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new engine is here, so thought id get cracking on removing the EGR, anyway noticed that my turbo elbows had studs snapped with not enough on them to get a bolt on when it comes to putting the exhaust on.

 

So decided to remove the elbows while i was there, to replace with the ones of my current engine, the two nuts holding the elbow on at the bottom, came off easy on both sides, the two top bolts on both sides how ever, just snapped with little to no pressure being applied. so now the only way i have of securing the elbows is with the lower bolts.

 

Short of taking the turbos off and changing the housing over for the outlet and as im crap at drilling things out, what are my options? :( (PS although i have a drill, its a bit crap at the moment as the charger broke for it so i cant charge it up)

 

Also what can i safely remove from this side of the engine, it seems when reading it from the forum i understand what needs removing, but soon as i get to the engine, it all looks a bit confusing lol

 

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if u take the turbo off from the 4 bolts that atatch it to the manifold the rest of bolts are easy .. i didnt have a problem with mine at all ( manifold )

 

i yet have to change my turbo elbows as have some SS ones to put on

 

Problem is, the state of the bolts on the turbo, i dont want to attempt to try and take the turbos off. ive had a zed in similar condition, the engine had stood for some time so has had a chance for the mildew to settle on bolts and start the rusting process, i know if i try and they are quite tight, they will most likely snap rather than unscrew, so unless completely necessary, i dont want to attempt it just yet.

 

IMO... not a cat in hells chance of something that cheap n nasty working on a Nissan quality stud.:thumbdown:

 

yeh but if you dont do it centyrally you will cause yourself a headache. its best done with a pillar drill off the engine. unless someonne whos good at it is local and willing to help your

best bet to to pull the tub and get a local engineering firm to do it fopr you wont cost the earth.

 

Wot he said!:thumbup:

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it will be easier mate as you dont have the right tools to do the job. unless you can get the engine as it is to a local engine building shop and just give them a few quid to do it for ya?

 

thats not going to happen, unless i strap it too a few skate boards and wheel it up to cosworth on my local industrial estate, though they might spend ages putting mad mods on it and doing strange things to the internals.

 

oh well, looks like im going to have fun tomorrow with some bendy spanners.

have you a welder? I welded a new bolt on to my broken stud and then got some stuff from my local motor factor called freeze you nuts off 1hour later stud out.

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have you a welder? I welded a new bolt on to my broken stud and then got some stuff from my local motor factor called freeze you nuts off 1hour later stud out.

 

not enough stud to get a new bolt and a bit of weld on, its snaped quite far in on all 4 bolts. meh. fecking things.

Give those nuts (turbo-manifold) a proper good soaking with penetrating fluid, or diesel, a reet good soaking, then just be gentle, undo a bit, tighten back up etc. and I'm sure you'll get the tubs off without further issues, then at least you can give them to someone to sort out, man up pal, get the hammer out :)

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hey i can see my parts :sneaky: :tt2:

 

nope, thats my new....nvm, yes you can as ive moved the plenum over to my old engine in the car, should really of removed the parts first lol Doh!

 

Hmm, how do you remove the CAS noticed the plastic connector on the new engine's CAS has snapped so only have the pins showing, so will need to replace that and reset the timing.

nope, thats my new....nvm, yes you can as ive moved the plenum over to my old engine in the car, should really of removed the parts first lol Doh!

 

Hmm, how do you remove the CAS noticed the plastic connector on the new engine's CAS has snapped so only have the pins showing, so will need to replace that and reset the timing.

 

iirc you just undo the front bolts and pull it out.

  • Author
iirc you just undo the front bolts and pull it out.

 

yeah tried that, doesnt want to budge for shit :lol: thought i might of been missing something

  • Author
Alloy corrosion making it stick get some wd40 around it ane tap it side to side

 

Or remove cambelt cover as it needs removing anyway, remove bolts holding the CAS bracket to the engine and wiggle untill free, set up new CAS unit using the old one as referance so the timing isnt too far out, and replace LOL.

 

Wait till engine is installed and reset timing. nice new cambelt too, :D thanks cooldel engine is lovely matey.

  • Author
was that a real its lovely or a sarcastic one lol

 

Real mate, not sarcastic in the slightest, im totally happy with it. :thumbup: and glad i got it from you.

 

(god that sounds even more sarcastic, its not trust me)

well yeah, but also 5p size hole in cylinder 6 doesnt help lol

 

Havent a clue about the oil filler cap, was already on the car when i got it.

 

Uploading some pictures now, but they snapped quite far into the turbo housing. ill have spare turbo housing when i get this engine out of the car, though i for see a problem, manual turbos on my new engine, and auto turbos on my current engine.

 

does it even run like that? bet it smoked like a bitch and ran like a pissed pirate.

  • Author

little update on the turbo saga, got some el cheap-O easy outs from ebay, thought what the hell, if it works, bargain, if it doesnt turbos have to come off.

 

Well drilled my first pilot hole and put the easy out in, and did it up, it tightened then proceeded to snap, oh well, back to the old fashioned way then, got my drill on another snapped bolt with a drill bit, slow and steady she went, till the bloody thing snapped, so used a smaller drill bit. again slow and steady she went. ended up through the bolt. so got a bigger size drill bit, and drilled it out. and pulled the rest of the snapped bolt out like a tiny spring.

 

One down, 3 to go, one with added bits.

 

Anyway started on bolt hole 2, and got all the way through it, only to run out of drill juice when i started with the larger drill bit.

 

Not sure im going to save the threads, but at least im able to get the snapped bit out, will be easier to re thread it if i need too.

 

Anyway, currently waiting on my drill to charge again now lol

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cant wait, them and the auto spigot bearing are whats really stopping me from starting the engine transplant.

 

Once they are sorted, might even just forget about doing re polish on the plenum, as i have 2 spares anyway, so might just put the old one back on half polished (as it came off the old engine) and then once ive got a very nicely polished plenum, do the swap. as im doing a water by pass anyway so will be easier to do the swap later.

This is what you need to get the auto spigot bearing out in the time you could say bl***y spigot bearing, it just grabs the back of the bearing and expands to grip then pushed out in a blink of an eye. I made it when I done my conversion and used it again when I helped andysxzx do his conversion.

  • Author
This is what you need to get the auto spigot bearing out in the time you could say bl***y spigot bearing, it just grabs the back of the bearing and expands to grip then pushed out in a blink of an eye. I made it when I done my conversion and used it again when I helped andysxzx do his conversion.

 

I dont need to take it out, i need to put it in. lol

 

Im doing a Auto to Auto conversion. But could you make me one?, could do with one of them in my tool kit lol

I could lend it to you? for a fee.......! i'm missing a rubber bonet stop. how about that? I could post it to you and you post it back? when you need one.

Edited by iain knight
adding more text

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I could lend it to you? for a fee.......! i'm missing a rubber bonet stop. how about that? I could post it to you and you post it back? when you need one.

 

all my breakers have vanished to the scrap yard, didnt get the bonnet stops off doh! but as i said, dont need one at the moment, just wouldnt mind having one for the tool kit. as thats a bugger of a bit to remove.

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