Hi guys, ideas appreciated if any.

 

as title reads really.

 

Car starts - revs - fluctuate a little - then dies. It was better before I change the idle control valve. At least it stayed going.

 

Dave

The idle screw on the side will need adjusting.

Did you split a pipe when changing it ,they do go very hard a brittle and can cause a air leak .I used 2 new nissan pipes soft and easy to get on if its not that maybe it a duff valve they do pack up and cleaning wont do anything.

Groover,

 

i know where to adjust it, but what do I do. As it dies. Do I undo the screw or screw it in?

you need to unplug to top connector, then start the car and do the adjustment to get it ti idle at about 700 rpm (you might have to get someone to keep the revs up or just turn the adjustment a bit first)...

I 'll see if i can find a link to the guide..

Anti clockwise should raise the idle, but dont go mad, very small turns. I assume you have checked your connectors and sensor connectors, the water temp snsor will have an effect on running.

first disconnect the top plug... Start the car and let it get warm. Turn the idle adjusting screw counterclockwise to increase idle, clockwise to reduce idle. Z's with manual transmissions (TT or NA) should idle at 700 +/- 50 rpm. Automatics should idle 50-70 rpm higher when put in neutral. The engine will tend to idle no lower that 700 rpm, so I would suggest turning the screw counterclockwise until the rpms just slight start to rise.

(this is easier to do with cozult or another program that will monitor the idle accurately)

and a few of these link have info on it:

http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/search.php?q=AAC&r=0&s=Search

Edited June 21, 201114 yr by Medallion Man

OK, Its much better... much much better. The idle is not going up and down and its not cutting out.

 

Idle is good.

 

The problem I have and also originally had was if I turn the car, lets say to pull into my drive. I drive on the road as normal slow down and start to turn. She cuts out.

 

She did this before any ideas - also have nearly a full tank of petrol.

 

She does also when I increase - push down on the throttle she drops to 500 or below on revs but pulls up again, I found if I do it gently she seems OK - any ideas?

Anti clockwise should raise the idle, but dont go mad, very small turns. I assume you have checked your connectors and sensor connectors, the water temp snsor will have an effect on running.

 

Yes cleaned all the connectors

 

CAS CLEANED

MAF - CHECKED ALSO DISCONNECT WHEN ENGINE RUNNING CUTS OUT

TPS CLEANED

TEMP CLEANED

COILS CLEANED

 

Regards

mine did this sounded like a bag of nails and couldnt seem to make its mind up what cyldnder to fire, sounded liek it was running on 4 cyls. and it gradully got worse to begin with it wouldnt idle then it wouldnt boost properly, then it would barely run. i cleaned all the connections went through everything and it ran slightly better. in the end it turned out the maf was buggered. you should be able to run normally without the maf below 3000 rpm if you disconnect it and restart the ecu. you could do with hooking it up to a program like conzult.

mine did this sounded like a bag of nails and couldnt seem to make its mind up what cyldnder to fire, sounded liek it was running on 4 cyls. and it gradully got worse to begin with it wouldnt idle then it wouldnt boost properly, then it would barely run. i cleaned all the connections went through everything and it ran slightly better. in the end it turned out the maf was buggered. you should be able to run normally without the maf below 3000 rpm if you disconnect it and restart the ecu. you could do with hooking it up to a program like conzult.

 

 

I would like but I don't know anyone local enough. Nearest garage to me is D2 in strood I am not sure if they have conzult or would nissan have conzult?

i believe nissan would have it and i expect d2 would aswel. at least check its not the maf first easy fix if it is. you can buy cheaper versions of conzult like datascan which are read only at least they will give you an idea of whats going on. im sure sum1 must be local and willing to pop over with a version of software for you.

You can buy the conzult adapter from ebay for about 20 - 25 quid, and can get basic versions of the software from the internet for free, there's many threads knocking about on here about using it.... I have one of these, works a treat, but I got mine from china, was about 18 quid delivered, but here's the same thing in england

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nissan-Conzult-Interface-tool-14pin-Diagnostic-Scanner-/300567429772?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item45fb37028c

So will it cut out when you are stationary and you turn the wheel? could be pas sensor related, ie not sending a signal to up the revs when the steering is used.

So will it cut out when you are stationary and you turn the wheel? could be pas sensor related, ie not sending a signal to up the revs when the steering is used.

 

Groover,

 

I strangely enough... I have just been out doing that.

 

If I turn the wheel in P Park or N Neutral the revs die and almost stalls the engine.

 

So what does this tell You the expert..

 

Dave

I phoned Zedworld and he asked me to do a test.

 

I kept my foot on the throttle so it idled at 1000, and turned the wheels and it did not die.

 

But if I don't do that, it dies slowly

 

What does that tell us?

Try one other test, idle the engine then turn on the AC pod and tell me what happens

Try one other test, idle the engine then turn on the AC pod and tell me what happens

 

 

Just did that and the revs increased to about 1300 rapidly.

 

If I had left it it may have settled back down? I take it, it was supposed to do that?

ill just add here, I did increase my revs slightly on the idle control and its not dying everytime now. But the revs do go down

 

My idle is about 850.

Its supposed to raise the revs when the AC is turned on, to compensate for the extra load required by the compressor. That test seems to eliminate the fast idle control valve, which is part of the ait intake unit.

With a multimeter, you need to get some readings at the TPS, AAC, FICD, CAS.

You could do with getting it on consult as it even the smallest adjustment can make a difference, you might have more than one sensor not reading as it should

ill just add here, I did increase my revs slightly on the idle control and its not dying everytime now. But the revs do go down

 

My idle is about 850.

 

Your idle is too high still.

NA AT = 720 RPM

NA MT => 650 RPM

TT => 700 RPM

 

Have a read of this article for some readings when testing the connections

http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.335

Groover, Thanks a lot for your help.

 

I might try and take it to Nissan. Get them to test it.

 

regards

 

Dave

Im not sure a Nissan dealer will know what they are doing, maybe D2 has consult, he will have more of an idea IMO

OK.

 

Ill see what I can do. Again thanks for your help and others.

Hi Dave, the grey plug on the fidc was the one you had changed to spade connectors?

 

It may or may not work, but change the terminals round on the spade connectors, they may be on the wrong way round.

Hi Groover

 

Ok I will have a look at that and try it. Ill update later.

 

I have also arranged for D2 to have a look at it. Had a chat with him yesterday and he seemed to know the cars even Nissan recommended him.