iv seen one here somewhere and cant find it now, im in the middle of fitting mine and i dont like the way those brackets turn when fitted, poor design a fixed bar should be between the two cos from what i can make out if them centre brackets ever moved the rear wheels would too, this wouldnt happen with a fixed bar.

 

shall i just fit it and shut up?:stupid::stupid:

I removed the larger nuts and locked off the bar with the smaller nuts provided.The larger nuts are too big and was affecting the adjustment..Lee:biggrin:

 

Thanks Lee, that's a great help! I'll give the smaller nuts a try then dude.

no bud, the lower one goes right though the joint and subframe...

if you dont the bracket will move about..

 

i will put a picture up of mine in 10 minutes if you need one?

no bud, the lower one goes right though the joint and subframe...

if you dont the bracket will move about..

 

i will put a picture up of mine in 10 minutes if you need one?

 

Yeah please mate any pictures will be a great help! Thanks!

the lower large bolt goes through the arm and through the subframe. it clamps it tight. If you dont run the long bolt you get with the kit through the subframe, the bracket will move up and down..

It's great in a straight tho line and better than when I had that old lock out bar!

 

Can you shed some light on why you changed from the lock out bar, i'm half way through fitting 1 and am now worried:wacko:

Sorry to go off subject a bit

Can you shed some light on why you changed from the lock out bar, i'm half way through fitting 1 and am now worried:wacko:

Sorry to go off subject a bit

 

Only because my ball joints we're knackered and the Driftworks kit does away with them... They way I saw it was based on Z center prices ball joints are £55 each and with the group buy that Dan organised the Driftworks kit wasn't that much more expensive and replaced the skinny standard toe arms..

phew, so glad thet they not totaly useless then, hope you get this 1 sorted though, loooks like a nice kit

the lower large bolt goes through the arm and through the subframe. it clamps it tight. If you dont run the long bolt you get with the kit through the subframe, the bracket will move up and down..

 

Ah have to check with Dan if he used the short bolts or the long bolts to the subframe, can't remember exactly! Thanks for posting up a pic of yours though and did you end up using the 4 smaller nuts on the arm or the ones that came with it?

Slightly off topic as it won't help solve your predicament, but having the same kit fitted to mine has transformed the way my car feels and handles. I had mine fitted by Silverbullet, who also did a 4 wheel allignment and my cars handling is now immense. Admittedly I have other suspension mods, but the DW eliminator has had the single most beneficial impact on stability/confidence. Pretty sure everyone else who has fitted it is happy, seems to me something is amiss and hopefully you'll sort it. Good luck.

Ah have to check with Dan if he used the short bolts or the long bolts to the subframe, can't remember exactly! Thanks for posting up a pic of yours though and did you end up using the 4 smaller nuts on the arm or the ones that came with it?

 

yes its bolted in 2 places on each side as per picture!

 

dan.

if i remember you get 4 large spacing nuts and 4 thin spacing nuts. you need to use the 4thin spacing nuts, put one on inner arm and one on outer arm. you need to use one thin nut per adjustable joint otherwise you cant lock them in. IF you use the 4 larger ones it toes out the wheels way too much!

 

make sure also both subframe bolts are in both sides. If there not then this is where your movement is CERTAINLY.. :-)

if i remember you get 4 large spacing nuts and 4 thin spacing nuts. you need to use the 4thin spacing nuts, put one on inner arm and one on outer arm. you need to use one thin nut per adjustable joint otherwise you cant lock them in. IF you use the 4 larger ones it toes out the wheels way too much!

 

make sure also both subframe bolts are in both sides. If there not then this is where your movement is CERTAINLY.. :-)

 

Right then so think we've established I need to swap all 4 larger spacing nuts for the 4 thinner ones... So on the arm it should be thin nut - Big orange thing in middle then thin nut again!!

 

Also to clarify where the bolts go as per your picture starting at the top of the pic, The smaller bolt go in the top of the bracket, the long one as you said goes through the arm and subframe. And then the other long one goes through the polybush near the wheel.

 

Last bit of confusion is the washers supplied! Think we used washers on every bolt so don't know if this matters or not!

yes you are correct on every note in last post buddy and yep use washers on all parts.

 

if you require any pics just let me know

 

james

yes its bolted in 2 places on each side as per picture!

 

dan.

 

You've done a top quality fit Dan, really grateful and it's nice to see how others people have done there's and with what size bolt's they used big or small! I know you've bolted it in both places but didn't know what size bolts we're used big or small! Think it's me toe that needs sorting!!

You've done a top quality fit Dan, really grateful and it's nice to see how others people have done there's and with what size bolt's they used big or small! I know you've bolted it in both places but didn't know what size bolts we're used big or small! Think it's me toe that needs sorting!!

 

the threads on the bolts are different so you can only use the short bolt in the threaded hole and the long bolts through the subframe with a nut on the end!

 

dan.

yes you are correct on every note in last post buddy and yep use washers on all parts.

 

if you require any pics just let me know

 

james

 

Yeah Dan's a legend, he used washers on every bolt even though I was short on some in the pack! Gonna swop the big nuts for those small ones and hopefully that give adjustment of the toe angle that's causing my problem...

 

Thanks again for your help James and everyone else on this thread.. :bow: Always nice to clarify which nuts and bolts go where and I will report back when i've swapped the nuts over to see if any difference is made...

 

Club spirt lives on! :cool3: :D

the threads on the bolts are different so you can only use the short bolt in the threaded hole and the long bolts through the subframe with a nut on the end!

 

dan.

 

Ah cool thanks for clarifying dude! Seem to remember you taking out the old shorter bolts from the old Hicas Lock Bar! When you get round to doing yours if you need me to come round and assist you and make the tea i'll be there!

no problem what so ever bud, ill always help where i can as many have done the same for me!!

Success!!

 

Right just thought i'd give you an update on this after swopping the big nuts for the smaller nuts it's cured the wobble / bump steer once and for all!!

 

The bigger nuts we're causing excessive toe in pushing the backend of the wheel out way to much (20mm) per side to be exact so it meant every time I went over a man hole cover or fag paper I got bump steer which was the wobble effect I was experiencing... Just horrible!!

 

Once swapped over to the smaller nuts It gave a much greater degree of adjustment so was able to set the rear wheels to toe in or toe out... Set the wheels to toe in by 2mm and everything is as straight as an arrow and even did some tests over bumps in the road at low and higher speeds and no more wobble!!!

 

Before with the big nuts there was bugger all in the way of adjustment.. Mine is a UK Z with tokico shock and standard springs and YES my shocks are fine!!!

 

Very happy with the Driftworks kit and can't recommend it enough, but for anyone who's not fitted there's yet you MUST use the smaller nuts and not the big one!!! Sometime having bigger nuts isn't always the best!!

 

Also remember to get the rear tracking done or even laser aligned after as you could end up with bump steer like I had or even worse when trying to go in a straight line your Z could start crabbing down the road...

 

Pics to follow later!!

Success!!

 

Right just thought i'd give you an update on this after swopping the big nuts for the smaller nuts it's cured the wobble / bump steer once and for all!!

 

The bigger nuts we're causing excessive toe in pushing the backend of the wheel out way to much (20mm) per side to be exact so it meant every time I went over a man hole cover or fag paper I got bump steer which was the wobble effect I was experiencing... Just horrible!!

 

Once swapped over to the smaller nuts It gave a much greater degree of adjustment so was able to set the rear wheels to toe in or toe out... Set the wheels to toe in by 2mm and everything is as straight as an arrow and even did some tests over bumps in the road at low and higher speeds and no more wobble!!!

 

Before with the big nuts there was bugger all in the way of adjustment.. Mine is a UK Z with tokico shock and standard springs and YES my shocks are fine!!!

 

Very happy with the Driftworks kit and can't recommend it enough, but for anyone who's not fitted there's yet you MUST use the smaller nuts and not the big one!!! Sometime having bigger nuts isn't always the best!!

 

Also remember to get the rear tracking done or even laser aligned after as you could end up with bump steer like I had or even worse when trying to go in a straight line your Z could start crabbing down the road...

 

Pics to follow later!!

 

 

ok thats good, so what did we fit wrong apart from the wrong size nuts?

 

dan.

ok thats good, so what did we fit wrong apart from the wrong size nuts?

 

dan.

 

Nothing really Dan, the nuts we're the main thing! The only other thing that was wrong was two of the longer bolts we're in the wrong places!! The one that was connected to the right hand side bush near the shock was too long and should have gone through the left hand side subframe as the one in the left hand side subframe was slightly to short with the washer and worse of all was working itself loose as not enough thread for the nut!! All swaped now and the shorter of the long bolts is in right hand side bush now.

 

Would have been nice if Driftworks included fitting instructions in our kits as although it looks and is simple to fit, it doesn't say which of the longer out of the long bolt's goes where so we we're just guessing.... The smaller bolt's are obvious as the go where the old hicas lock kit went or hicas unit.

 

So in order of nuts from the top it's

Small bolt's

Longer bolt into the subframe

and the long bolts through the bush!!!

 

Hope your's went all ok Dan

 

Anyone who's fitting this kit I would check everything after a week of driving to make sure all your nuts and bolts are still tight... Also worth noting that the toe adjustment bar is a left handed thread so it's not righty tighty, it righty loosey and lefty tighty!!!

 

 

Dan's Special tool which made life easier!

 

 

The original bolt, slightly too long!! Me and Dan we're not to know tho!!

 

 

Old skinny hicas arm

 

 

The right size subframe bolt in place, shorter of the long bolts became loose!

 

 

Smaller nuts in place

 

 

With the smaller nuts either side there is now room for adjusting the toe in and toe out... Once adjusted, tighten your nuts but remember there on a left handed thread!!!

what with picture of the thomas?

what with picture of the thomas?

 

Ooops! That one shouldn't have been on there! Just needed a photo of the toilet to show the water outlet pipe so can marry it with a new one..

Anyone know how to get those bushes out without one of those tools dans got ?

 

Trying to do mine now and can't get the old ones off.