just had my autobox swapped and everything put back together but the car wont start its like an imobiliser fault?? there is power going from the battery to the starter motor but there is nothing to make it start up?? the lights on the dash come on but nothing when trying to start.. help please ???

I had this & there is som smaller wires going to the starter from the engine & mine was broken! Just a thought!

everything was om working order before hand and all when back on the sme... i did disconnect the battery do the cars have imobiliser??? and how to de activate it ??

check wiring to box that will stop car turning over ,or if you have an aftermarket alarm then you might have to reset different ones have different ways to reset check net for your make .

just had my autobox swapped and everything put back together but the car wont start its like an imobiliser fault?? there is power going from the battery to the starter motor but there is nothing to make it start up?? the lights on the dash come on but nothing when trying to start.. help please ???

 

sounds like a neg fault on the starter they have been put onto the starter on right positions i assume?

cheers guys, johnny boy - i dont have aftermarket alarm just a standard zed from japan with all manufaturers stuff, if this includes imobiliser i dont know?

 

gonz - the starter motor has been connected up corrextly ie the live and the ignition switch wire...

 

is there an imobiliser and if so how do i reset it ??

have you checked the inhibiter switch is wired in or connected...the device that stops the car being started in gear

znut how and where do i do this??

 

also another bit of info the guy who fitted it for me he did a wire thing and started the car from the starter motor just to check if it would start and it fired up fine.. but wont work with the key in the ignish!

znut how and where do i do this??

 

also another bit of info the guy who fitted it for me he did a wire thing and started the car from the starter motor just to check if it would start and it fired up fine.. but wont work with the key in the ignish!

 

as far as i know as ive never changed a zed box but i think its a plug that protudes from side of box and a plug connector plugs into it...someone will be along soon to confirm ime sure mate but going on the info it sounds like the problem

 

found this.. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12535&highlight=auto+box+inhibitor+switch

Edited January 24, 201114 yr by znut

ill get it checked tomorow, bit dark out now :D thanks for your help, if i got him to wire me a permanent re routed wire so it starts again whenever i turn the key can anything go worng is it safe to do so.... ( obv im takling if i cannot find the source of the issue)

ill get it checked tomorow, bit dark out now :D thanks for your help, if i got him to wire me a permanent re routed wire so it starts again whenever i turn the key can anything go worng is it safe to do so.... ( obv im takling if i cannot find the source of the issue)

 

be a lot easier to fix problem mate believe me and safer:lol:

If it was working before as said above its most likely the inhibiter switch circuit either not connected on the gearbox or the switch faulty or even a dodgy cable.

 

The easiest way to check this is to get access to the inhibitor relay which is located in the rear part of the drivers side front wheel arch.

 

Turn the steering wheel fully right and release the wheel arch liner at the rear of the wheel, high up you will see a large BLUE double relay unit, sometimes just taped or cable tied up onto the loom. Unplug the relay and observe that there are two large cables and two smaller cables, bridge the two larger ones, this has effectively cancelled out the inhibitor circuit, now with the selector in park try starting the engine, should be all ok now if the aforementioned is the problem, sound complicated but is really a 5 minute job.

 

Be aware the engine will now start in drive or reverse now so this a test only.

 

Jeff TT

Edited January 24, 201114 yr by JeffTT

If it was working before as said above its most likely the inhibiter switch circuit either not connected on the gearbox or the switch faulty or even a dodgy cable.

 

The easiest way to check this is to get access to the inhibitor relay which is located in the rear part of the drivers side front wheel arch.

 

Turn the steering wheel fully right and release the wheel arch liner at the rear of the wheel, high up you will see a large BLUE double relay unit, sometimes just taped or cable tied up onto the loom. Unplug the relay and observe that there are two large cables and two smaller cables, bridge the two larger ones, this has effectively cancelled out the inhibitor circuit, now with the selector in park try starting the engine, should be all ok now if the aforementioned is the problem, sound complecated but is really a 5 minute job.

Be aware the engine will now start in drive or reverse now so this a test only.

 

Jeff TT

 

Are you sure it's in P-park or N-neutral while trying to start it? Was the gearbox a known unit, sometimes the selectors slip a little, so the box doesn't know it's in one of these two positions....Hope you get it sorted, Jeff above is your man to help.....:hammer:

jeff your a ledge ! thanks for your help :D

as of above everything is fine now thanks jeff and the rest of you, jeff's trick worked a treat.

 

i do have one other question.

 

the gearbox is now in and running we have moved the selector through the P N D 1 2 etc to allow oil to get around, at first the car had to rev up to move but gradually cleared out as i am told let the oil get around and any blocked air out etc, which its running a lot better now, but sometimes it revs when im waiting for it to go up a gear sort of a hesitation will this clear up also ? is it a case of as i havent hit the high geats that much on the drive the oil and air is still coming out or ??

The autobox fluid should self bleed in less than a minute, any waiting for drive to engage after this time is a worry, assuming of course the correct level of fluid is in and also assuming the old cooler and lines were all cleaned out and the old torque convertor was not used as that will certainly be contaminated from the old box

 

Jeff TT

the old cooler lines how do i clean them out, we used the cooler pipes from the new box if that is what u mean, am looking to replace the actual cooler when i have the pennies, like i say it engages drive now fine and its very responsive in the low gears it just hesitates a tad when im waiting on it to change up a gear when driving at about 35-40 mph it hits about 3k revs and i lift my foot up off the gas a tad and it will change- maybe im just being paranoid.