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Tried and tried bleeding and bleeding...

Still air bubbles and heating still going cold, then starts overheating.

 

Cannot seem to find a leak apart from water dripping from the offside front of the car, top hose goes solid under load.

 

Pulling my *beep* hair out now... what or who is going to fix this and for how much?

 

I know nothing about cars.

 

 

*beep* CAR!

 

:thumbdown:

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Raise the front end of the car slightly, it will help with bleeding the radiator. Have the climate on full heat to open the valve on the heater matrix, run the engine until at running temp, undo the bleed screw on the top of the rad, i found it easier at first to take out the screw and top up with extra water from a jug, until the water gets to the top of the bleed screw hole, you will see the bubbles. Squeeze the water pipes gently to aggitate the water flow. You might need to do this a few times to get the air out.

 

Dont fill the coolant reservoir as it states in the ehow link, thats not what its for lol

Edited by groover

Sorry to hear your having problems, i would go for a compression test over a sniffer test though, more reliable method of testing for a Z32

  • Author

Thanks guys, all much appreciated =0)

 

Will have to buy a sniffer I suppose, checking the thermostat is a nightmare and same with water pump, will probably have to save some pennies.

 

Thanks for the e-link.

 

Jeff sent me a new radiator cap bless him, same problem.

 

It says:

let the engine continue to run until the thermostat opens and the coolant solution is running through the system. You'll know when this is happening because the upper radiator hose will become hot to the touch.

 

And it does this...... Then I open the bleed screw and bubbles keep coming out until the pressure goes down in the top hose, then we're back to square one and topping up until it gets up to pressure after a drive (or let the engine go cold overnight)... then you just repeat this... giving me a headache.

Compression test will not always pick up a HG leak compression on mine was 100%. Sniffer will always work to my knowledge.

 

Mine was only blowing very slightly and had no oil in the water, smoke, steam, etc. Just kept presurising the water system either until parts started leaking or it over heated. I changed the water pump, fan clutch, viscose fan and rad, and did a compression test and everything looked fine until I used the sniffer on it. But Jimmer will tell you it was definately a HG faliure once it was apart.

I tried three thermostats as well as I just could not believe it was the HG at fault as everything else checked out fine. But it does sound like what mine was doing and does give the impression that their is an air lock in the system every time. But the reality is that the high pressure was forcing the water out of even the tightest joints.

if your HG has gone then the motor can become an air pump to the water system...it all depends where its gone..water and combustion side or the oil side

Compression test will not always pick up a HG leak compression on mine was 100%. Sniffer will always work to my knowledge.

 

I had a sniffer test done on mine and it said hg fail but two other mechanics have said it cant be since and that a 300zx can leak slight gas anyway (without hg failure) so the sniffer test is not the most reliable? (this is only from word of mouth)

 

alas though mine does have a similar issue overheats on longer journeys and froath in the cooling system (bled twice)

 

the plan is to get it mot'd again run it and see what happens, sympton depending its then going to be booked in at a garage for what it needs :D

If it is leaking gas its failing surely ?????

Edited by madmax

  • Author

Hmmmmmmm... me is lost.

 

Been reading some posts:

Some say bubbles in rad is head gasket... others say thermostat dicky; then it overheats then it steams out water from overflow (which it has once)... some also say it's a blocked and dodgy heater matrix causing problems lol, how much money does my car want me to spend on it?

 

Is it possible to buy some vocal chords for it for £20 for it to tell me what's up with it? lol

If it is leaking gas its failing surely ?????

 

I see what your saying yeah and i need to look at mine in this regard, i do remember though when the test was being done on mine it took forever and a day to change and the dye did not fully change only slightly to indicate leakage

 

the mechanic looked at me shrugged his shoulders and said could be the gasket :confused:

 

so i was gonna go with a compression test just to see what each cylinder is doing?

Only the most serious h/gasket fails show on a compression test,and i mean serious like mine had when exhaust gas comes out the rad filler.a block tester is by far superior for checking smaller less obvious leaks.If the cooling system wont bleed out and system refuses to hold water its almost certainly head gasket failure.

is the block tester another term for sniffer test? :confused:

 

mine does not seem to bleed out but does not take the water either (same level) the plan my side was to get it mot'd again and run it to see what happens it overheated 3 times in around a 4 month period when last on road :(

  • Author

block tester = sniffer test

 

And oh dear, word coming from jimmer is not good =(

 

How much am I looking at to fix this?

take it off the road for the winter. do a sniff test, then weigh up your options. save some cash up. it might not be he said almost certainly be an optimist, it makes zed ownership far easier. worse case senario it is that and you will have to pull the engine. coul do it yourself or ask sum 1 local to help for a bottle of whiskey and a promise you will do teh same for them when they need it. spend some big cash get a rebuild and have the car you always dreamed of. or try driving it to zedworld when it breaks call the rac they will take your car to zedworld you can go home without it. theres no rush is there, soon the weather will be crap and you wont wanna take it out anyways

  • Author

Thanks Z32Bolt, you're a star too... (Not a chocolate one lol)... I was thinking about going down the rebuld route; At some point I wanted the engine rebuilt back to it's former glory... but instead of taking it out after getting it going again... I may as well save over ehat it would cost and uprate and get stronger parts for it to run slightly more power.

 

I'm glad in a way it's gone this route as I may of got this sprayed and then this happen to me.

 

As you say, I could save up in the nasty conditions...

 

Good advice bud =0)

Thanks Z32Bolt, you're a star too... (Not a chocolate one lol)... I was thinking about going down the rebuld route; At some point I wanted the engine rebuilt back to it's former glory... but instead of taking it out after getting it going again... I may as well save over ehat it would cost and uprate and get stronger parts for it to run slightly more power.

 

I'm glad in a way it's gone this route as I may of got this sprayed and then this happen to me.

 

As you say, I could save up in the nasty conditions...

 

Good advice bud =0)

yer best getting forged pistons and cometic gaskets for longer life and piece of mind as you say mate.

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