Hi guys,

 

Managed to get a consult reader and the free software.

Not sure how to use it really, but hooked it up to me car, got the screen shots of the car idle on cold start idle, warm idle and then warm idle after adjusting the idle time... it said it was out and made the car idle way past the green ok bar on the software, so adjusted it accordingly, then done a screen rip after it was done.......

 

Can someone help and tell me if my car is ill?

 

I also noted my o2 reading was moving quite a bit on warm idle instead of looking stable. Is this normal?

 

Here are the pics with info for diagnosis :-

 

 

 

 

IDLE COLD AFTER START (AND BEFORE IDLE SET WITH IDLE BUTTON)

 

 

 

 

WARM IDLE - BEFORE IDLE ADJUST

 

 

 

 

WARM IDLE - AFTER IDLE ADJUST

 

 

 

 

WARM IDLE - AFTER IDLE ADJUST - PREVIEW; SEEMS IT DOES NOT WANT TO IDLE INTO THE GREEN EVEN THOUGH THE SCREW HAS BEEN TURNED A LOT, DIDN'T WANT TO KEEP ALTERING, SO LEFT IT AT THIS... RIGHT OR WRONG THING TO DO??

 

 

 

 

GENERAL INFO WINDOW

 

 

 

 

TROUBLE CODES (REPLACED THIS SENSOR A WEEK AGO, SO SHOULD I IGNORE THIS?

Injector pulse Too high

 

IACV-AAC/V Too high

 

A/F Alpha Touch low for a standard chip, may be a different map to standard

 

Closed throttle is greyed out should be active CLOSED

 

Temp sensor code needs resetting too as it may be old, if the code returns after resetting then this MUST be addressed before any more setting up can be done.

 

Also the low base idle will effect the screen shot figures, the IACV-AAC/V should be at 15% when set up correctly and up to temp., the injector pulse should be around 2.2 mSEC the A/F Alpha for a standard set up is 109% an after market eprom 95% to 100% but given you have mis-values elsewhere when those are corrected the Alpha should settle.

 

Check the throttle balance, to ensure both butterflies are opening at the same time, also check the ignition timing with a gun to see what the actual value is as opposed to the figure the ecu is looking for, if it is retarded this would account for you not able to get a correct base idle setting.

 

Possible causes of bad figures are boost/ air leaks poor responding 02 sensors, bad ignition timing, bad cambelt timing, bad throttle balance, spark plug type and gap settings.

 

Jeff TT

Edited October 25, 201015 yr by JeffTT

Errrr... *Brain Overload, system meltdown, error... error... error!*

 

lol, I think I better bring her up to you Jeff lol

 

How much am I looking at to look at all this?

Errrr... *Brain Overload, system meltdown, error... error... error!*

 

lol, I think I better bring her up to you Jeff lol

 

How much am I looking at to look at all this?

 

 

No worries, whilst you wait service £30 + vat includes full assessment and necessary adjustments.

 

Jeff TT

Jesus!

 

How do I book? Just via the Zedworld site?

give him a ring tomorrow best way. 01827311190

No worries, whilst you wait service £30 + vat includes full assessment and necessary adjustments.

 

Jeff TT

 

hi, sorry to jump in on this thread

 

 

jeff, including what you just quoted, how much for a full inspection on the rest of the car too whilst its there?

give him a ring tomorrow best way. 01827311190

 

i probs best do that too :mellow:

Cool, thanks peeps =0)

Just to update... I couldn't get her to Zedworld all them miles away, she started juddering the other night and I just laughed to myself on the way home as if to say "yeah, like I'm going to chance driving there like this!" lol... Strood to D2 was even out of the question as it was too touch and go, so found a place that does 200sx and 300zx her in Sittingbourne, Kent called 'Bourne Performance', they have consult and stuff...

 

I was there 8am on the dot this morning and they still have the car... It wouldn't start this morning after driving it to them... So they had to wait until she decided to go....

 

Anyway, me and my mate went down later at about 16:00 and they found the whole loom had decided to corrode, showed me the injector plugs were all white, that's as far as they'd had got... They're going to have to replace plugs they said!?!?

 

Bummer! But at least she'll be working in no time (I hope!)... I put her in for £50 diagnostics, just hope they don't sting me for a massive labour bill now!! =0o

Edited November 1, 201015 yr by oobumblebeeoo

tell them to check every possible plug in and around the engine bay....if your injector connectors were fouled then your ptu, coil, iac etc etc are all probably similar.

Yeah, think I'm going to feel a dent in my pocket very shortly....................................

I was also told that all JAP imports have to have a custom ecu and mapped to our fuel as they run on 102 octane or something?

Otherwise the engine eats itself from inside out?

well thats the first time ive heard that one . do these people happen to sell these ecu,s by any chance . sounds like they might be trying to drum up business . im pretty sure jefftt will add his opinion / knowledge about this later.

Yeah, would be interesting............

I was also told that all JAP imports have to have a custom ecu and mapped to our fuel as they run on 102 octane or something?

Otherwise the engine eats itself from inside out?

 

Can't vouch for other jap cars, but the Zed, ermmmm NO!

Smithy

Hmmm, lying gits...

 

Oh well... £188 later, 6 injector plugs replaced and 3 hours labour... the car is running ok now, idling smooth and not lumpy andat 700rpm but still not happy.

 

Still doing that weird fluctuating on warm start.

Hmmm, lying gits...

 

Oh well... £188 later, 6 injector plugs replaced and 3 hours labour... the car is running ok now, idling smooth and not lumpy andat 700rpm but still not happy.

 

Still doing that weird fluctuating on warm start.

 

 

Jeeeezzz!!! how is it non 300zx specialist garage can charge more than a dedicated 300zx specialist?? and give misleading information to boot.

 

Do the ConZult tests again and post the screen shots, be very interesting to see what they look like now.:whistling:

 

Jeff TT

I know.....

 

Not happy that they've only INSULATION TAPED up my injector plugs and they all look different :@

They still never gave me a diagnosis of what my f!!!ing car is doing either. Think they just wanted it out the way??

 

--

 

OK, will sort this out in a bit Jeff (screenshots etc).

 

If I bought the car up this weekend or Monday day, what is involved in this £30 while-u-wait thing?

 

Thanks,

Ant

Edited November 3, 201015 yr by oobumblebeeoo

Ok, here goes Jeff...

 

 

New Codes

 

 

 

New Idle; Cold Start

 

 

 

New Idle Warm - Pic 1 of 2 (Noticed the O2 Sensor fluctates a bit on warm hence two pictures showing the voltage fluctuation range)

 

 

 

New Idle Warm - Pic 2 of 2

 

 

 

New Idle Control Adjustment Button COLD (Without ME adjusting it this time and messing it up, but just to show what they've set it at when clicking this)

 

 

 

 

Hope this all helps bud?????

 

Thanks,

Ant

New ConZult results.

 

1 ) So taking the later screen the Injector pulse is still Too high

 

2 ) The IACV-AAC/V is too high should be 15% at 80c

 

3 ) A/F Alpha has changed slightly ( leaner ) but still a touch low for a standard chip. should be 109% with standard chip.

 

4 ) The end screen showing the base idle setting check was done when the engine temp was too low (36c), all settings that are adjustable need to be monitored and altered (if required) only when the engine is up to working temp (80c ) the cold running system interfered with the any readings and so cannot be included in the tests.

 

The overall engine set up has changed slightly, but the surging revs etc. does point to the engine still not been set up properly yet.I would hazard a guess that the base idle has been adjusted by altering the throttle balance rather than the base idle screw, that is why the IACV-AAC/V remains too high and why you still have the rev surging issue, there is a possibility that the IACV-AAC/V is not functioning correctly, due to either a bad connection or a failed unit, its worth checking the yellow connector as sometimes they come adrift if the spring clip is missing.

 

The injector pulse remains the area of most concern, it seems to be slightly higher now than before which points to more throttle imbalance causing the engine to be running rich, a failing AFM ( drifting) can cause a similar set of readings and unfortunately its likely that you still have more than one issue with the set up.

 

Jeff TT

Edited November 4, 201015 yr by JeffTT

How much we looking at?

How much we looking at?

 

Originally £30+vat however now there has been someone messing about in there its likely that we may need to start again re-doing their work as well as sorting the original issues so it may be a bit more...but not £188 worth thats for sure!

 

Jeff TT

Edited November 4, 201015 yr by JeffTT

Booked in 9am this Monday with you Jeff =0)

 

Be nice to meet the legend lol

 

173 miles, 3 hours....... Jeez!

Edited November 4, 201015 yr by oobumblebeeoo

update...

 

Thanks to Jeff and his crew my car was sorted today with the old faithful conZult... Wrong spark plugs, timing was out 13 degrees, throttle balance was wrong and the maf someone sold me on here was crud.

 

Much love goes to those guys, should of bought my zed there in the first place...

 

Only bitch about today was my car decided to overheat on the way back, had to put it on a low-loader and bring her home an hour away from home in Kent (nothing to do with Jeff's work may I add)... probably me trying to do a coolant change the other week...

 

Recovery guy had brown water spat back at him lol, but noticed the guage going up and down, same time my heating in the car was going from cold to hot, so not sure if this is an air lock or thermostat???

Radiator seemed cool on overheat, but the main block was boiling!!!

 

Jeff is sending me more info on how to sort it all the way down here =0)

 

Just hope this helps others in a similar situ' I have been in =o0

Ok matey, see below the new after screen shots today on our ConZult.

 

Of course the afm was responsible for the 2.5k rpm rev cut but the retarded ignition and throttle inbalance was playing havoc with the hyrdocarbons which in turn was giving huge peaks at the O2 sensor as the system was trying to compensate.

 

The spark plugs are a less of an issue other than the little hicups they cause but. Shame about your little detour on the way home but now its running ok getting the air lock out should not be to much trouble, another possibilty is badly seated rad cap, (will explain how to check in your e-mail)

 

Good to meet you today

 

Jeff TT

 

1 Faulty afm

2 Throttle balance incorrect

3 Ignition timing 13 deg retarded

4 Base idle set wrong

5 Wrong spark fitted ( Bosch city plugs )

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 8, 201015 yr by JeffTT